My use case

[HeiX]

Thought I would throw in my use case, now that I've lived with these for a year now and finally got them working the way I want. Here were my wants:
A. Have sensor inputs always available.
B. Be able to turn ON the light and keep it on under manual control.
C. Be able to turn OFF the light and keep if off when under PIR control.

Here was my original config:
RA select switch (could be any controllable switch) wired to control FLS.
FLS configured for PIR & LUX control of FLS internal switch.

Problems:

• Can't force light to stay ON (no B).
• Turning off a RA switch would kill the FLS and I might not catch the fact it was off for days (no A). This problem is compounded by "All lights off" class of events.
• Turning off RA switch kills all FLS sensor input (no A).
• RA switches show up as always on, although light switches are usually off. Not a big deal.

Thanks to a suggestion from BobSpen, I next wired "around" my RA switch - the hot lead is pigtailed to the RA switch and the FLS, so now the FLS is always powered and the RA switch only controls via the RA hub. This solved some problems, but still left me without B&C. I found C especially annoying: when we have guests on our patio, the damn thing was firing every few minutes.

With the setup below, I can turn ON the light with the RA switch and it will stay on until shut off or dawn. When I turn OFF the RA switch, the FLS light will stay off for 2 hours, then return to PIR control, but via the Z-Wave controller, not directly by the FLS. In the case below, I set the PIR controlled ON time to 3 min and LUX is actually just HS night.

To accomplish this:
1. Wire the FLS hot.
2. Have a controllable switch for FLS light control.
3. Set parameter 5 on the FLS to 0 (light is controlled by ZWave controller)
4. Create events to turn on the FLS switch when the physical switch becomes ON, and vice versa.
5. I have an event to shut off all the controllable switches at dawn.
6. I use the following to give me manual control over the light.

IF Exterior Den NE Floodlight Sensor NE Motion Sensor changes and becomes Motion Detected
AND IF The time is nighttime (after sunset, before sunrise).
AND IF
Exterior Den RA2S NorthEast Flood Switch has been Off for at least 2h, 0m, 0s
THEN
Set Device: Exterior Den NE Floodlight Sensor NE Floodlight to On
Set Device: Exterior Den NE Floodlight Sensor NE Floodlight to Off
after a delay of 3 Minutes, 0 Seconds

[lifespeed]

Great writeup, would you mind clarifying terminology: "RA switch"?

[Wadenut]

Maybe I missed something but, by simply setting the Load Control parameter in the FLS to zero, you can have A, and full control of B&C through HS events without any special wiring.

[drhtmal]

Great writeup, would you mind clarifying terminology: "RA switch"?

Luton RadioRa.

[HeiX]

Luton RadioRa.

Yup, as drhtmal says, Lutron RadioRA (but in my case RA2 Select). But as I noted:

"Here is my original configuration:
RA select switch (could be any controllable switch)."

So you could use Lutron, HS, etc.

[HeiX]

Maybe I missed something but, by simply setting the Load Control parameter in the FLS to zero, you can have A, and full control of B&C through HS events without any special wiring.

I don't think so. In my case, the fixtures were originally controlled by the hardwired switch, and I rewired so that the fixture was always hot and the switch didn't control anything from its load terminal. But lets take both cases:
A. Fixture is hot.
In this case, A is true (sensors are on 24/7). The Lamp (bulb in the fixture) is either controlled by the sensor (FLS100) or by a controllable switch (by setting Parameter 5 to 0).

If controlled by sensor, no B and no C (bulb On/Off controlled by PIR and ambient light).
If controlled by switch, and Parameter 5 is set to 0, you have full control of bulb via HS events and can use the approach I listed to get the extra "override" controls.

B. Fixture controlled by hardwired switch.
For me, this is the "no special wiring" case. In this case
NO A. When switch is off, you have no sensor power so no sensor reports and no sensor control. This also means that "all lights off" commands will disable the fixture until it is powered back on. I want the fixture to operate like a motion controlled floodlight by default.

Here is another benefit: when you power the sensor via the switch, your switch icon will show the light "Off" when it is off, but when it is "On", the bulb may or may not be On. If you wire the fixture hot, and control the bulb via events that control the switch, when the switch icon shows "On", the bulb will actually be On. Of course, now the converse it true: if the switch icon shows "Off", it doesn't necessarily mean the sensor is off.

Basically, my approach allows the FLS100 to act as a motion controlled floodlight as well as temp and light sensor 24/7, and I have "light switches" that control the flood bulb in a more natural and non-obnoxious way.