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How do you hook up a power supply to the HSM100?

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  • How do you hook up a power supply to the HSM100?

    I tried putting jumpers across each battery slot, and then tried hooking a power supply up to a couple different ends. That doesnt seem to work. Can somoeone take a picture of how they hooked up a supply to this. I dont want to break mine trying to figure it out.

    Also, the power supply I have has a 4.5v setting, but puts out 5.44v when read with a multimeter. Its also a 300ma supply. Do you suppose this will work to power the HSM100?

  • #2
    HSM100 tops out at about 50mA at 4.5V when its transmitting.
    http://catalog.digikey.com/scripts/d...me=T976-P7P-ND is more than enough and less than $10.
    Just cut the connector off and wire it to the 2 leads from the battery case to the PCB. The 2 pins you want are next to each other on one end. I'll try to post a photo soon. THere are also some holes for a connector but that involves soldering...

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    • #3
      I modified one HSM100 by soldering leads to the battery holder, but on a subsequent unit, decided on another approach. The amount of heat required to make a good connection can threaten the integrity of the connection to one side of the PCB. I made a couple of dummy AAA batteries from 3/8" dowel and attached the power leads to the dummy batteries. Now I can use either a power supply or batteries.
      Attached Files

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      • #4
        If I buy a 5v power supply, does it matter which part of the wire I hook up on each end of the HSM

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        • #5
          I used a PSU 4.5VDC, same as the batteries. Yes, for sure the polarity has to match the batteries!

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          • #6
            Please look at the picures to see the parts mounted in the HSM100. The other part is a 4.5VDC power supply, and yes, 1.2 amps is more than sufficient. I measured the current drain with the batteries before buying the Power Supply and I beleive it was well below that. However, that was quite a while ago and I didn't record the value. You could do that as well.

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            • #7
              Originally posted by afmiller
              I have looked over the forums for the issue with the LED light acting irreagular on the 5v DC 2 amp Power, but acting normal when its on battery. The LED constantly flickers even if there is no motion, the LED makes it look like there is. I know I can shut off the LED in the settings, but I'm just worried something is wrong if its doing that. The settings in HS seem to be updating correctly though.
              Do you have the capacitor installed (from wadenut's post)?
              HS3Pro Running on a Raspberry Pi3
              64 Z-Wave Nodes, 168 Events, 280 Devices
              UPB modules via OMNI plugin/panel
              Plugins: Z-Wave, BLRF, OMNI, HSTouch, weatherXML, EasyTrigger
              HSTouch Clients: 3 Android, 1 Joggler

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              • #8
                I just searched this forum post for the capactior post, I can't seem to find it. I do not have a Capacitor at all. Im going off Chucks design of the dowel rod. I dont have it totally set up like he does though, He has the part at the bottom which you can hook the power supply to for fuctionality. I just connected the power supply lines to the dowel rod and have a metal tac butting up on the ends. Is that the problem?

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                • #9
                  Originally posted by afmiller View Post
                  I just searched this forum post for the capactior post, I can't seem to find it.
                  http://board.homeseer.com/showthread.php?t=151875
                  All Z-Wave, #101 devices, HomeTroller Series2, HomeSeer2 v.2.5.0.81, & 1x Z-Troller

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                  • #10
                    Originally posted by afmiller View Post
                    I just searched this forum post for the capactior post, I can't seem to find it. I do not have a Capacitor at all. Im going off Chucks design of the dowel rod. I dont have it totally set up like he does though, He has the part at the bottom which you can hook the power supply to for fuctionality. I just connected the power supply lines to the dowel rod and have a metal tac butting up on the ends. Is that the problem?
                    It could be. The capacitor will "even-out" the power.
                    HS3Pro Running on a Raspberry Pi3
                    64 Z-Wave Nodes, 168 Events, 280 Devices
                    UPB modules via OMNI plugin/panel
                    Plugins: Z-Wave, BLRF, OMNI, HSTouch, weatherXML, EasyTrigger
                    HSTouch Clients: 3 Android, 1 Joggler

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                    • #11
                      Finally had a little free time to install the cap on mine and add a plug. Still havent received word from the head office on where I can install it, but hope to install it high in a ceiling corner. I can drop power out of my attic pretty easily and keep the wiring out of sight.
                      Attached Files
                      HS3Pro Running on a Raspberry Pi3
                      64 Z-Wave Nodes, 168 Events, 280 Devices
                      UPB modules via OMNI plugin/panel
                      Plugins: Z-Wave, BLRF, OMNI, HSTouch, weatherXML, EasyTrigger
                      HSTouch Clients: 3 Android, 1 Joggler

                      Comment


                      • #12
                        Anyone know what this part is called? That chuckk has used to connect the power adapters pin at the bottom of the hsm100, the idea is fantastic, i wont have to ruin the adapter by slicing and cutting off the pin or the wires. plus it gives it a retail look.

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                        • #13
                          What is wrong with this? It says it has an adapter available

                          http://www.vesternet.com/z-wave-expr...-triple-sensor

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                          • #14
                            The above picture looks like a mini toggle switch. You can also probably put a barrel connector in a similar location. That said it would look a bit weird to have a power connector wire hanging from the bottom of it. Might as well just pass the wire behind it like the regular PIR's have such that all you see is the PIR.

                            The attached pictures are just examples of stuff that is available; nothing else.

                            Inside of a typical PIR there little terminals with little screws for connecting the power and the NC/NO switch. They resemble the pictures below. If all you are doing is connecting power; then putting a little power terminal inside would be a non issue. Basically then just the two power wires would come out of the wall. You pass them through a hold in the back of the PIR; attach the wires then attach the PIR to the wall. Thing is too that the cover of the PIR typically snaps into place such that you can connect the terminals inside of it; then snap the cover on.

                            Wiring to the wired PIR switches I utilize is 22/4; very thin stuff and easy to get around the house. You do not see any wires on any of the PIRs including the occupancy sensors. There is typically also a tamper switch on the device.

                            Typically too the PIR circuit board and sensor just clip into the plastic housing such that you can pull away the board, connect the wires and put the little circuit board in place.
                            Attached Files
                            Last edited by Pete; November 4th, 2013, 04:17 PM.
                            - Pete

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                            Homeseer 3 Pro - 3.0.0.534 (Linux) - Ubuntu 18.04/W7e 64 bit Intel Haswell CPU - Mono 6.4X
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                            X10, UPB, Zigbee, ZWave and Wifi MQTT automation.

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                            • #15
                              Just to remind everyone, the current version of this sensor has terminals like the ones Pete has pictured already there. I run a wire from those terminals to someplace discrete where I have a 5v wall wart with a standard center positive connector plugged into female connector with screw terminals (available on Ebay). This whole issue has gotten a lot simpler.

                              My only gripe now is that the terminal on the HML 100 is not where I would prefer, and I end up cutting a slot for the wire.

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