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How do you hook up a power supply to the HSM100?

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  • Gene Vance
    replied
    Originally posted by bpryde View Post
    Still dont understand why they dont just put a jack on the side so people can plug Friggen power in. Makes no sense that we have to go through all of this. Would cost cents in mass production.

    Makes no sense to me.
    That part is much better on the Aeotech sensor. It is a mini (not micro) USB, and your old cell phone chargers can find a new use. I'm not sure why this one is laid out in a way that makes it more difficult to have the wire exit discretely. There is not enough room for a wire to connect to the terminal and fit within the case. If the terminal were located to allow the wire to connect into the battery area, there would be a lot more flexibility. Without being powered, the motion detector is not very useful.

    What is NOT better on the Aeotech is the accuracy of the thermometer. They all seem to read around 4 degrees high and the relative humidity on the Aeotech (not available on the HML100) is off by even more when polled at 6 min. I've read it is the electronics in the case heating up, but it would be nice if all of these Zwave sensors were more accurate.
    Last edited by Gene Vance; November 13th, 2013, 10:47 AM.

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  • rmasonjr
    replied
    I have a love/hate relationship with the HSM100. Mostly hate. It doesnt update back to HS nearly as often as the newer multisensor. Battery level is always 82%. Always. 82%.
    The newer Aeon Labs multisensor is much better.

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  • bpryde
    replied
    Still dont understand why they dont just put a jack on the side so people can plug Friggen power in. Makes no sense that we have to go through all of this. Would cost cents in mass production.

    Makes no sense to me.

    Leave a comment:


  • Gene Vance
    replied
    Just to remind everyone, the current version of this sensor has terminals like the ones Pete has pictured already there. I run a wire from those terminals to someplace discrete where I have a 5v wall wart with a standard center positive connector plugged into female connector with screw terminals (available on Ebay). This whole issue has gotten a lot simpler.

    My only gripe now is that the terminal on the HML 100 is not where I would prefer, and I end up cutting a slot for the wire.

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  • Pete
    replied
    The above picture looks like a mini toggle switch. You can also probably put a barrel connector in a similar location. That said it would look a bit weird to have a power connector wire hanging from the bottom of it. Might as well just pass the wire behind it like the regular PIR's have such that all you see is the PIR.

    The attached pictures are just examples of stuff that is available; nothing else.

    Inside of a typical PIR there little terminals with little screws for connecting the power and the NC/NO switch. They resemble the pictures below. If all you are doing is connecting power; then putting a little power terminal inside would be a non issue. Basically then just the two power wires would come out of the wall. You pass them through a hold in the back of the PIR; attach the wires then attach the PIR to the wall. Thing is too that the cover of the PIR typically snaps into place such that you can connect the terminals inside of it; then snap the cover on.

    Wiring to the wired PIR switches I utilize is 22/4; very thin stuff and easy to get around the house. You do not see any wires on any of the PIRs including the occupancy sensors. There is typically also a tamper switch on the device.

    Typically too the PIR circuit board and sensor just clip into the plastic housing such that you can pull away the board, connect the wires and put the little circuit board in place.
    Attached Files
    Last edited by Pete; November 4th, 2013, 04:17 PM.

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  • bpryde
    replied
    What is wrong with this? It says it has an adapter available

    http://www.vesternet.com/z-wave-expr...-triple-sensor

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  • Guest's Avatar
    Guest replied
    Anyone know what this part is called? That chuckk has used to connect the power adapters pin at the bottom of the hsm100, the idea is fantastic, i wont have to ruin the adapter by slicing and cutting off the pin or the wires. plus it gives it a retail look.

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  • rmasonjr
    replied
    Finally had a little free time to install the cap on mine and add a plug. Still havent received word from the head office on where I can install it, but hope to install it high in a ceiling corner. I can drop power out of my attic pretty easily and keep the wiring out of sight.
    Attached Files

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  • rmasonjr
    replied
    Originally posted by afmiller View Post
    I just searched this forum post for the capactior post, I can't seem to find it. I do not have a Capacitor at all. Im going off Chucks design of the dowel rod. I dont have it totally set up like he does though, He has the part at the bottom which you can hook the power supply to for fuctionality. I just connected the power supply lines to the dowel rod and have a metal tac butting up on the ends. Is that the problem?
    It could be. The capacitor will "even-out" the power.

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  • Olbrit
    replied
    Originally posted by afmiller View Post
    I just searched this forum post for the capactior post, I can't seem to find it.
    http://board.homeseer.com/showthread.php?t=151875

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  • afmiller
    replied
    I just searched this forum post for the capactior post, I can't seem to find it. I do not have a Capacitor at all. Im going off Chucks design of the dowel rod. I dont have it totally set up like he does though, He has the part at the bottom which you can hook the power supply to for fuctionality. I just connected the power supply lines to the dowel rod and have a metal tac butting up on the ends. Is that the problem?

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  • rmasonjr
    replied
    Originally posted by afmiller
    I have looked over the forums for the issue with the LED light acting irreagular on the 5v DC 2 amp Power, but acting normal when its on battery. The LED constantly flickers even if there is no motion, the LED makes it look like there is. I know I can shut off the LED in the settings, but I'm just worried something is wrong if its doing that. The settings in HS seem to be updating correctly though.
    Do you have the capacitor installed (from wadenut's post)?

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  • chuckk9032
    replied
    Please look at the picures to see the parts mounted in the HSM100. The other part is a 4.5VDC power supply, and yes, 1.2 amps is more than sufficient. I measured the current drain with the batteries before buying the Power Supply and I beleive it was well below that. However, that was quite a while ago and I didn't record the value. You could do that as well.

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  • chuckk9032
    replied
    I used a PSU 4.5VDC, same as the batteries. Yes, for sure the polarity has to match the batteries!

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  • afmiller
    replied
    If I buy a 5v power supply, does it matter which part of the wire I hook up on each end of the HSM

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