Wyse Outdoor Plug to Tasmota

[Pete]

Found this post by DigiBlur....

Wyze Outdoor Plug with Tasmota posted on March 7, 2021

I preordered it from Amazon and got it this week.

WYZE WLPPO1-1 Outdoor Smart Plug, White for $15.98

• Long-range WiFi lets you plug in nearly anywhere. Up to 300' WiFi range. Confidently control outlets around your home with Wyze Plug Outdoor's extended WiFi range (300 ft. in open space). Set energy consumption alerts and see historical energy usage in the Wyze app.
• Made for the outdoors: IP64 Weather Resistant. Safely plug into areas that are exposed to rain, dust, dirt, and snow.
• Independent control of both outlets at any given time- two outlets in one. Turn off your outdoor lights but leave your inflatable snowman standing strong.

Last energy monitoring endeavor update firmware was to a Sonoff S31 in December, 2019. I converted this one to Espurna firmware. It is running fine to date.

DIY firmware upgrade to ITead S31 Smart Socket switch



Noticed that the Wyze Plug is on the Tasmota template DB.

Found a reference to the wyze_plug_flasher which is OTA.

I have never used an Wyze device. After reading not totally understanding the description / step by step ...mostly this piece...

py wyze_updater.py list

which I assume means that I have to create an account on wyze cloud for this to work.

That said taking it apart and doing the update manually.

First thing I noticed is that the 5 screws that hold the case together are Triwing tamper resistant screws. I was able to get three of the five screws out with a small screwdriver and ordered an el cheap tri-wing driver set from Amazon.



Will take pictures of the inside when this device is apart and continue this post.

Took the case apart today. The cover is not glued and screwed on. The cover came right off. There are 5 screws inside holding the board to one side. I removed all of the screws and pulled the board out to take pictures. JTAG port is labeled and has solder pads. Same with 3.3VDC. Soldering little wires to the pads to JTAG the device to Tasmota. Really a tad easier that JTAGing the Magic home controller.



Updated my soldering station tips and purchased 28 guage multiple color wire. I was using 26 guage and ran out.

I purchased this on Amazon:

Fermerry 28 AWG Stranded Wire Silicone Cables Hook up Wire Kit 6 Colors 5Ft Each 28 Gauge Electrical Wire (5FT 6 Colors, 28AWG)



I only had white wire left on my old 26 guage spools.

I know this is temporay but will probably leave the wires inside.

22 of March, 2021

Soldered the 28 guage silicon wires to the WiFi pads on the board. (3.3VDC, ground X2, RX, TX and boot). I have never used this guage of wire with a silicon shelding. It is very flexible but a bit too skinny. It was easy to strip the 28 guage silicon coated wires.

Will power board with 3.3VDC and update it to Tasmota soon.

31st of March, 2021

Updated to tasmota32.bin today reading this blog post. Needs more power than what comes from USB stick so you have to power it via your 120VAC plug to configure Tasmota.

How to Flash the Wyze Outdoor Plug - ESPHome Local Control No Cloud

Features of the WYZE Outdoor plug

• ESP32 for Bluetooth scanning!
• Higher Gain antenna than a normal ESP module PCB antenna
• LUX Sensor
• Power Monitoring (Both relays combined, single channel)
• Dual Relays
• Dual Status LEDs
• IP64 Weather proofing
• 15 Amp capacity

And used this Tasmota template:

Wyze Plug Outdoor Plug

It is not soup yet on the completed Tasmota development. I am impressed with the device.

[Pete]

Next steps here are to upgrade the firmware using ESPHome.

This will allow use of Bluetooth devices, et al.

I'll put the step by step here.

I installed ESPHome on the new current testing Home Assistant (HASSIO) on a new PC running with HS4. It is just an add on to HASSIO.

[Michael McSharry]

I saw a YouTube video by Digblur where Tasmota for ESP32 was flashed and Tasmota scanned for Bluetooth sensors and reported their status. I do not have any such sensors so did not delve into it.

[Guest]

Here using OpenMQTTgateway
https://docs.openmqttgateway.com/
on ESP32 to track Bluetooth sensors with MCSMQTT.

https://compatible.openmqttgateway.com/
Couldn't be easier as flashing is done directly via the usb bort.

I Use these ones

https://a.aliexpress.com/_m0hy7YP

https://a.aliexpress.com/_mMC50FD

to track temperature and humidity in the fridges, showers (to auto start the fan) and places where wired access is more difficult.

They have good range and report battery status (simple firmware upgrade needed)

[Pete]

@123qweasd

Thank you.

This would be my first time using bluetooth sensors. I am impressed that this device can do so many things. Geez it has 4Mb of play space. What I thought was the WiFi mentioned above then is really the Bluetooth radio.

The wires were a PITA to solder on but easier than soldering on the MagicHome controller.

I just cut the tips off and put heat shrink tubing on them and folded them inside. Will probably never open up the device again though...

[Michael McSharry]

Had I not already completed my greenhouse project this would have been a good choice for the controller. I used Rx for DS18B20s on a Sonoff 4CH for sensing and needed two relays for cool and heat. To get lux I added a second ESP8266 with Adafruit 2591. I also added a DH11T for humidity. This could have all been done with the Wyse and the expanded GPIO of ESP32.

[Guest]

I used Rx for DS18B20s on a Sonoff 4CH for sensing and needed two relays for cool and heat. To get lux I added a second ESP8266 with Adafruit 2591. I also added a DH11T for humidity.

If you are not using the physical buttons on the Sonoff 4CH, I guess GPIOs 0-9-10-14 could also be used. 4-5-12-15 as well if you snip the leds. Not tested on the 4CH but this approach works on the Sonoff basic.

[Michael McSharry]

Engineering development projects are typically iterative with learning along the way. My initial design was for four relays with the 3rd and 4th being the second stage of the heater core and for positive control for the vent. Experience shows that single core 750 watt was easily sufficient to provide the heat in the tightly constructed greenhouse and passive gravity effect and low pressure created by the cooling fan handled the vent without any active control.

The Lux and humidity sensors came later just for purpose of collecting data. Not certain what I will be doing with the data, but hopefully will help with decisions next Spring.

I do understand the concept of repurposing the LEDs. I thought about doing that with the Jinvoo valve used for solar water heating control so I could use temp sensor for decision on when the valve should be closed vs. open, but elected to rely upon the network for open/close control using the sensor that was already present via a Sonoff S31 and a Tasmota rule in the S31. I did not want to give up the local feedback and also did not want to compromise the water protection of the encasing by adding other wires. I also trenched and ran cat5 to the greenhouse so I could put an AP in the greenhouse and assure a strong WiFi for the devices. p.s. I do hope that Tuya Convert will continue to work with this valve control as it it a cheap, easy and effective control of ball valves.

It would still make sense in the Sonoff 4CH to use the LEDs from channel 3 and 4 for the I2C, but after everything has been installed it is much easier to just add a D1 mini. The idea is still a good one. I do not recall if the 4CH Pro uses SMD or through-hole for these LEDs.

[Guest]

Engineering development projects are typically iterative with learning along the way

Couldn't agree more.

p.s. I do hope that Tuya Convert will continue to work with this valve control as it it a cheap, easy and effective control of ball valves.

I was actually about to order such a device to manage a secondary soaker hose;
The Jinvoo seems to be a generic chinese model sold under a number of names (Jinvoo, Moe's, Hoenyzy, Gowfeel, etc.)
I'm pretty sure they didn't change the firmware on it so quite confident it will still work with Tuya OTA if it did for you.
Found some OEM version here:

https://www.aliexpress.com/item/1005001337925734.html

Can you open the valve partially, or only full on/off ?
Otherwise satisfied with the results ?

Also saw this one which probably use some type of solenoid and wouldn't require the use of a separate valve, but it seems to be pretty cheaply constructed.
It does however have direct serial access to the ESP so I may consider it.

https://templates.blakadder.com/irri...imer_BQ05.html
https://www.aliexpress.com/item/33056690358.html

Let me know what you think.


Edit: if the above devices only provide full on/off, wondering if a simple brass/12v solenoid valve controlled via a smartplug would be a better, more durable option ?

https://www.aliexpress.com/item/4000067341651.html

[Michael McSharry]

Not certain if the solenoid valve is bistable or needs power to hold its state. If it is bistable, are installing it with new plumbing, and are able to do the weather protection then it would be a good choice for on/off.

The variants of the smart switch have different GPIO configurations so not all are 100% clones.

It does produce considerable torque so even sticky valves can still be controlled.

I have it applied to 1/2 iron pipe for propane and 1/2" brass for the solar water heater. It should be able to handle 3/4" as well. For the solar water heater I actually control a two way valve so when the outside temperature is freezing it will still circulate water, but bypass the run under the ground where the heating is intended. These valve controllers are two-position (on/off). If you want a restricted flow then you could do something similar as my bypass with one route being restricted to reduce flow. Not the same a PWM control of a solenoid, but a way to modulate flow with a relay on/off.

[Guest]

Thanks Michael, I'll do some more research on the solenoid valves.
the mechanical arm system sounds like a great solution for existing valves but for new installs, I would rather have the clean look of a solenoid, if reliable.
My use case is not something critical and if I can't find a bistable valve, I'll go for a "normally closed" valve.

[Michael McSharry]

The Jinvoo seems to be a generic chinese model sold under a number of names (Jinvoo, Moe's, Hoenyzy, Gowfeel, etc.)
I'm pretty sure they didn't change the firmware on it so quite confident it will still work with Tuya OTA if it did for you.

I obtained backup Jinvoo today. You are correct. I had success with Tuya Convert and flashing it with Tasmota. Same GPIO configuration as the others I have as well. I do use a D1 Mini flashed with vrtrust client. This makes is so much easier than fumbling with a smartphone.

I think we are hijacking Pete's thread as the topic is tangent to the Wyse.

[Pete]

Not an issue .

..moving on here to a new post relating to installing and using Ring to MQTT plugin which works nice except for odd triggers in the middle of the night and this is low on the WAF when Alexa wakes wife at 2 am in the morning....