Have to bite the bullet... back to Z-wave 3.x

[ecetron]

I have given up trying to fully sync a Zen32 controller on Z-wave Network A with the switches/dimmers on Z-wave Network B to simulate associations. Since there are only 4 devices on Network B, I am going to roll back from 4.x to 3.x... I will then flush the Z-net on Network B and add it as a secondary on Network A (which can only be done on the 3.x Plugin).

Other than doing a FULL directory backup, what is the safest was to accomplish this?

Thanks,

-ed

(and for context, Network A and Network B are 300' ft apart without power except at the endpoints, so the Zen32 can't reach from the house (Network A) to the Dockhouse (Network B)....

[ecetron]

Well I tried this and no matter what way I did it, I was never able to get to the "Make this an inclusion controller on another network" in the dropdown. No amount of erasing or restarting got it to come up.

Is there a way to do a backup of the primary with all its nodes and values, then edit it with new information for the Z-net (changing node numbers etc) and parameters to indicate a secondary controller and restore it to the Z-net?

[Rupp]

Why are you wanting to make the Z-Net a secondary controller? Setting up two networks is the way to go to cover more area.

[randy]

Why are you wanting to make the Z-Net a secondary controller? Setting up two networks is the way to go to cover more area.

I think his situation was that he wanted to use Associations with his Zooz ZEN32. Since associations will not cross networks, he wants to add a controller with the same HomeID. It was suggested that Events would solve 5he problem but I think he wants to have the associations persist even when HomeSeer is down.

This will prove difficult going forward since secondary controllers are no longer supported.

[ewkearns]

Why are you wanting to make the Z-Net a secondary controller? Setting up two networks is the way to go to cover more area.

I agree, with reservations. Adding a network and trying to balance the load between the old network and the new is a labor-intensive cluster to transfer devices and update events from old to new and vice versa. IF a secondary controller inherits the id from the primary controller, that may be the only compelling reason to have a secondary controller.

[TC1]

If you can split that 300' distance in half by placing a z-wave mains powered device somewhere (an outdoor weatherproof plastic electrical box) then it could act as a repeater and you'd be able to control devices in the boathouse. I control z-wave devices in my detached garaged by ensuring there are z-wave plus devices in the wall in my house that faces the back of my property and then a z-wave plus device inside the garage on the wall facing the house. That one device in the garage is able to route for other z-wave devices in the garage.

Z-wave should be usable at 150' with clear line of sight.

[ecetron]

TC1 -- I did look for a repeater solution, but there are no battery operated repeaters that I could find -- even a solar one would help... All the ethernet and power from house to dockhouse is in heavy conduit and I am loathe to break it open to tap into line voltage.

The key is the associations - the way the Zen32 works, those associations are keyed into the dimming functionality of the lower scene buttons. On/Off is easy to reflect for simple on/off of the dimmers in the dockhouse, but try as I could, trying to find a way to use the 'push and hold to dim and then push and hold to brighten and then push and hold to dim ...." logic in the switch is hard to code out. And while it is no bother to me (I can easily use HS Mobile to dim/bright remotely) for the rest of the family, I really need those buttons to work the right way. That was the sticky part -- I can do the on/off easily but simulating (or reflecting) the internal logic has proven quite difficult... I might try again now with the conditionals as I guess I can create a variable to set if each hold/release should be dim or brighten....

[TC1]

TC1 -- I did look for a repeater solution, but there are no battery operated repeaters that I could find -- even a solar one would help... All the ethernet and power from house to dockhouse is in heavy conduit and I am loathe to break it open to tap into line voltage.

FYI, there is no such thing as a battery powered repeater for Z-wave. To act as a repeater, the device has to be always listening... which eats power. All Z-wave battery powered devices are designed to sleep until they need to report. Basically, *any* device that is powered from the AC mains will act as a repeater in the network, your z-wave switches, smart bulbs, dimmers, fan controllers, wall plugin modules, etc, are all repeaters. That's why I said if you could somehow get 120vac somewhere at the midpoint between the house and dock then you should be good to go.

There's been a lengthy discussion on the Zen32s by others in the forums, also you might want to contact Zooz tech support and tell them what you are trying to do. I suspect you need to setup associations in more than one Group Association to also get the multi-level-set dimming actions.

[ecetron]

I had my tongue in cheek on the repeater... Just not an option.

But I think I have finessed it.. Simple family solution.. 1 press is on off. Double tap is 25%, triple tap 50%, 4 is 75%, and 5 is 100 %. Not very granular but good enough. Besides, the wx-300 range isn't that granular anyway. Plus one is a Fan Controller that fits that pattern as well... Add some color codes colors to show dim level remotely and it is a moot issue....

And it leaves the optimal dual network configuration in tact..

Thanks all for weighing in to help

[BraveSirRobbin]

Something to consider would be to use an HS-FS100 (HomeSeer Water/Leak/Light Detector) at the halfway point (as the post above suggested using a repeater halfway). Reason for this sensor selection is you can run the 5 volt DC power it requires easier in an outdoor environment (direct burial line) as it does not have the restrictions or safety issues of needing 120 volt AC power at the installation's location.
The sensor isn't waterproof, so some type of thin plastic homemade waterproof box would be required as well.