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    re: relay controlled power plug

    I’ve been searching (with no success) for a power receptacle plug that the "off/on" state can be controlled through a wired connection to one of the output relays of an SECU-16. The purpose is to cut the power off to my garage door opener during the night. I have always been concerned that someone could break into one of our cars parked outside and activate the remote control to gain access into the garage. X-10 would be an easy solution but I prefer the added safety of a wired approach. Does anyone know of a packaged device capable of this?

    Many thanks,
    Tom

    #2
    tross,

    Instead of killing the garage door opener I killed the remote control. I found that the remote for my opener used a 12VDC battery. I wired the remote control power to the ignition side of the fuse block. You need to turn the key to the "RUN" position to open the door, which is a bit of a pain, but it works very well once you get used to it.

    Your could use a 12V relay between the remote battery and the remote if your remote uses a different voltage. Let me know if you need more explanation of this hook up.

    Hope this helps,
    Ken
    "if I have seen further [than others], it is by standing on the shoulders of giants." --Sir Isaac Newton (1675)

    Comment


      #3
      Ken:

      Very clever and creative idea! In two of our cars however, this approach would require relocating the remotes to a less convenient location (from the ceiling compartment) to get a wire to the fuse block. Any creative ideas for an "in garage" solution that will interface with the SECU-16?

      Thanks,

      Tom


      <BLOCKQUOTE class="ip-ubbcode-quote"><font size="-1">quote:</font><HR>Originally posted by Ken Mitchell:
      tross,

      Instead of killing the garage door opener I killed the remote control. I found that the remote for my opener used a 12VDC battery. I wired the remote control power to the ignition side of the fuse block. You need to turn the key to the "RUN" position to open the door, which is a bit of a pain, but it works very well once you get used to it.

      Your could use a 12V relay between the remote battery and the remote if your remote uses a different voltage. Let me know if you need more explanation of this hook up.

      Hope this helps,
      Ken<HR></BLOCKQUOTE>

      Comment


        #4
        Tom,

        My Liftmasters have a switch on the inside panel that allows you to disable the RF remotes. You could wire a SECU-16 relay across this type of switch to disable the remotes.

        Ken
        "if I have seen further [than others], it is by standing on the shoulders of giants." --Sir Isaac Newton (1675)

        Comment


          #5
          Tom,

          this is not a direct answer to your problem (because of voltage difference between Australia and the US), however I thought you might be interested in what I am doing. It might trigger off some other idea that could solve your problem.

          You may or may not know, but X10 device support outside of the US is terrible - all beause we use 220/240 V 50 Hz instead of 110V 60 Hz.

          There are a few X10 240V modules around, but they cost double, up to 5 times more than the 110V units.

          There are no 2 way devices, and reliability is not that great.

          So I had an idea to turn my Ocelot/SECU16s into a replacement solution for X10.

          I can wire up the existing light switches up to the SECU inputs, all that I needed was for the SECU16 outputs to control some sort of relay controling the 240V circuit.

          2 local manufactures in Australia, Clipsal and HPM make 0 volt switch relays, which means there is no voltage on the switch circuit & no load (perfect for the light rated contacts in the SEC16), but switches mains 240V on the primary contacts.

          Perhaps it requires a little more wiring than an X10 solution, but given the lack of devices 'down under' this is probably the next best (and probably more reliable) solution.

          (Only thing I havent worked out how to do is control dimming from the Ocelot :-( )

          So, perhaps you might find something similar in your neck of the woods.
          Wire up the 0 volt switch contacts to the SECU16, and the primary circuit up to your power socket for the garage door.

          Whilst you are at it, why not wire up some sensors on the door to the SECU16 so the Ocelot will know when the door is open as well.

          Hope this helps in some way.

          Cheers

          Comment


            #6
            Ken:

            My opener is a Overhead Door 65B ½ HP, it’s over 12 years old. I removed the shell to see if there was a remote disable switch but unfortunately there is not. That would have been a very easy solution.

            C912039:

            I was hoping to find a packaged product but it looks like your suggestion may be the best. A quick look for zero voltage switch relays came back empty. I’ll look harder this evening. BTW, a limit switch is definitely going on the door.

            Ken & C912039, thanks for your help and good ideas!

            Comment


              #7
              A couple of thoughts:

              1. My garage door opener has an 8-bit address. On top of that with 16 House codes and 16 Unit codes that nets about 66,000 combinations. So this would take a very determined felon. Add another appliance module in front of the first and you get 17 Million combinations.

              Further, if you pick a house code that does not have an RF to x10 interface (or you disable that house code in an MR26a) then I don't think that it is very vulnerable. How would the x10 command be transmitted to your appliance module from outside the house?

              2. My RF receiver on the garage door opener is a separate module -- it only does one thing--close a set of contacts that make the electro-mechanical garage door open or close. So why not put the SECU16's relay in series with that relay so both relays have to be closed for it to work.

              HTH,

              Jon

              Comment


                #8
                You could wire up your own outlet with an SSR to control it. The Solid State Relay allows control of various voltages, including 120VAC, from as little as 3VDC - ie. it can work from a computer parallel port line if the SSR doesn't draaw much current.

                - huggy
                |
                | - Gordon

                "I'm a Man, but I can change, if I have to, I guess." - Man's Prayer, Possum Lodge, The Red Green Show
                HiddenGemStudio.com - MaineMusicians.org - CunninghamCreativeMaine.website

                Comment


                  #9
                  You could use the SECU-16 to change the base address on your opener. Mine is a Sears and it has DIP switches. Wire one of the relays of the SECU-16 in parallel with one of the switches that is OFF. At night turn it ON and you got a different combination.

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