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SECU16 Versus SECU16I

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    SECU16 Versus SECU16I

    I am going to purchase either SECU16 or SECU16I as I need some analog inputs. What are some good uses of the relay outputs on the SECU16? Would the SECU16I essentially replace some of my Universal Modules and Powerflashes? If so, should I replace them?

    Jim Doolittle
    Jim Doolittle

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    The Secu16 has 8 digital/analog (switchable) input ports and 8 low current relay outputs. The Secu16I is input only and has 16 digital/analog input ports with no output capability.

    On my Secu16 I use the relays for the following purposes.
    <pre class="ip-ubbcode-code-pre">
    Relay 1-4 Zone and control 4 ceiling mount Crown PZM microphones (mute/unmute)
    Relay 5-7 Zone and control 3 outdoor sprinkler zones 24VAC thru intermediate relay
    Relay 8 Tied back to Aegis Security system to that HS can signal Alarm status to the monitoring company.
    Actually, used all of the relays so I'll need another Secu16 soon.

    The inputs are used as:
    <pre class="ip-ubbcode-code-pre">
    Supervised Digital 0 AC Power monitor (relay wired to external utility power)
    Supervised Digital 1 Motion - Kitchen
    Supervised Digital 2 Motion - Family Room
    Supervised Digital 3 Motion - Entryway
    Supervised Digital 4 Motion - Upper Hall
    Supervised Digital 5 Motion - Master BedRoom
    Supervised Digital 6 Motion - Master Bath
    Supervised Digital 7 Open - Available
    As to answering your question about the Universal or Powerflash modules, the general answer is yes, they can be replaced by the Secu16. As to whether you should, you need to determine the reliability of the X10 protocal and delay. The Secu16 operates in real time, is very reliable, and isn't affected by other X10 traffic or power failures in the house (assuming you have the Ocelot and HS PC on a UPS).

    You can get more info on each of the modules from the ADI site.

    2 cents,

    [This message was edited by George Photakis on Wednesday, 01 January 2003 at 01:17 AM.]


      I have three SECU-16s (I/O) and one SECU-16I (input only). Some of the ways I use the output relays:

      1. Garage door openers -- wired in parallel with the normal opener push buttons.

      2. Arm/disarm alarm system (3 areas, 3 relays).

      3. Chime intercom system. My intercom has three different door chimes each with distinctive tones. I only use two of them for doors (front and back). I use the third to announce a driveway arrival.

      4. Trigger security camera recording. 8 cameras takes 8 relays.

      5. Turn a WaterCop valve OFF if water is detected in key areas.

      6. Enable sprinkler system. I have a Rainbird controller set to water every day but I have HS enable it (via the rain sensor loop) on days I really want it to water.

      7. Turn on crawlspace vent fans.

      I use inputs for:

      1. Garage door open/closed sensor.

      2. Driveway arrival/departure sensor.

      3. Several alarm system functions (alarm, communication failure, areas armed, ready-to-arm, etc.

      4. Motion detectors.

      5. Whole-house audio receiver/amp ON/OFF.

      6. Emergency generator running (I have a 120V relay connected to it which closes when it's running).

      7. Magnetic switches on certain doors I want to know when someone goes in/out. For example, my server/equipment room. I get an email at work if it's opened when the maid is here.

      8. Sprinkler system running (master valve zone trips a 24v relay which is connected to SECU-16).

      [This message was edited by DC on Wednesday, 01 January 2003 at 01:09 PM.]



        Just curious on how you connected your 120V relay to the emergency generator?

        I have a Generac 8KW Natural Gas unit that auto-starts and has a fully automatic transfer switch. I've always wanted to do the same thing but being that the generator feeds the panel as if normal power does, I was wondering where to put the relay?

        I sense external power lost by putting a relay on one of the circuits that the generator does not back up. I guess I can use some logic to determine if input 1 is down and input 2 is up then generator is on but it might be nice to get a direct feed from the generator itself.

        Did you hook up the relay to the main bus in from the generator?



          <BLOCKQUOTE class="ip-ubbcode-quote"><font size="-1">quote:</font><HR> Did you hook up the relay to the main bus in from the generator? <HR></BLOCKQUOTE>

          That's exactly what I did. I used a Grainger 6A854 time-delay relay and connected it directly to the feed from the generator inside the transfer switch box. It was easy for me to run a PVC conduit down out of the transfer switch and through the wall into my crawlspace. Then I pulled a CAT-5 wire from the switch to my equipment room. (Don't forget to order the mounting socket for the relay.) You probably know this but be sure the CAT-5 is on the OUTPUT side of the relay, not the 120V side! IE, put the relay inside the transfer switch and connect the coil with heavier gauge wire. Since it's not protected by a breaker, if it shorts out it's inside a metal box so it won't be much of a fire hazard.

          I found that a time-delay relay is important because when the generator is cranking, there are voltage surges that cycle a regular relay several times. I initially used a cheaper Radio Shack relay but in the 4 or 5 seconds it takes for the generator to start and stabilize the voltage, the relay tripped multiple times making HS think the generator started and stopped multiple times. Not a huge problem but annoying. With this relay I set it to trip 10 seconds after it senses power.

          The $58 for the relay is cheaper than $120 the generator company wanted for an optional add-on feature for my transfer switch that does essentially the same thing (and some other things that I don't need). The service tech that came out to install that $120 option was nice enough to suggest that I could do what I needed to do by connecting a relay to the feed from the generator. His boss probably wouldn't appreciate that, but I sure did!

          My generator (a Kohler 11 KW natural gas) self-tests once a week. I have a series of HS events set up to notify me if the self-test fails. The generator starts at noon every Saturday and runs for 20 minutes. I have a virtual device that HS sets OFF at 11:30 every Saturday. Whenever the generator starts, it sets that device ON. If the device is still OFF at 12:30 on Saturday, HS makes a voice announcement and sends me an email that the self-test may have failed. I've had the generator about 18 months now and this last Saturday the self-test failed for the first time. The generator would not start because the mixture was not set right for cold weather. I have a service contract so the company came out Monday morning and fixed it (and showed me how to adjust it if it happens again). It's annoying enough that it wouldn't start for the test but it's much better to know it then, than at midnight during an ice storm when the service company can't get to my house!

          [This message was edited by DC on Wednesday, 01 January 2003 at 01:12 PM.]

          [This message was edited by DC on Wednesday, 01 January 2003 at 01:22 PM.]


            Great idea, and you've saved me a ton of time testing.. And yes, I've always wanted to be able to monitor the test cycles myself. Mine will run for 15 min every Sunday at 3pm.

            I'll run out to my local Grainger store tomorrow and pick one up.

            Thanks loads (no pun intended!)



              Did you get your generator hooked up to HS? If so, how is it working?


                No, sorry, not yet. I got caught in an endless business trip mode that has had be on the road an average of 4 days out of each week. It's definitly on my todo list. I've even got some committed changes to Phone_Action that I promised to do that I haven't gotten around to.

                I'll let you know when I get into it.