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    IR Controlled Speaker Switcher

    My HA system includes the Ocelot for IR control of Home Theater equipment. I am considering extending my audio system to have high quality audio in various parts of the house. I am considering using an IR controlled speaker switcher such as this one from Smarthome http://www.smarthome.com/8152.html I wonder if I would need to by the remote control unit or could I use a Universal conjunction with Ocelot to achieve the controll of speakers throughout the home.

    Thanks for all input.

    #2
    Wow thats more than I spent on 5 Technics 200 watt receivers ($60 each) and the Xantech A/V distrubution amp ($60). That setup gives me independent volume control in each location as well as being able to play different source material in each location. Also be careful on speaker impediance or overloading your main amp with multple speakers.

    John
    John

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      #3
      I am creating a PCB for that purpose, at present it controls 4 sets of speakers(left & right) and has relays connected to my homevision unit to provide switching capacity, the pcb is impedance matched and will always show 8ohms to the amp.

      I can post diagram details if you want.

      Comment


        #4
        John,

        Sounds interesting. I think yours is a better more flexible setup and less costly.

        Could you point me to the URLs for the equipment you used and a good place to purchase them.

        Thanks

        Comment


          #5
          Ok here is a repost from this board:

          My system

          I now have a 6 zone system setup and working great. I have four Technics receivers centrally located. The Sony ES home theatre receiver is in the living room which is where the CD changer is also (Tape Deck, Tivo, DVD and VHS deck also). I have an Onkyo Integra receiver in the family room so I also used that. The Sony uses the five speakers + sub, the Onkyo uses some floor standing speakers and the Technics goto BIC in-wall speakers for the kitchen and bedroom and wall mount outdoor speakers for the patio. So all six zones have a seperate receiver thus have its own volume and mute control. All but the Sony share the 400 disk Sony changer through a Xantech distrubution amp ($60) and the Sony uses direct Optical.

          Each zone has its own tuner so it can have one of 40 preset stations playing. All but the Sony receivers are controlled via the Slink-e IR interface. The Sony uses the Slink section of the Slink-e interface. The Slink-e supports up to eight seperate zones so keeping the Technic's IR signals seperate was a breeze.

          I use modified version of the NPFrame (Nowplaying with frames) package developed by Jake, Michael, Sparkman, and Ron (did I get everyone?? hehehe). Using a drop down menu I can select which zone to control while in NPFrame. I can then control the power, volume and mute for each that receiver.

          I would not live without independent volume and mute controls. What I found out was that is was cheaper to use seperate Technics receivers (from Ebay) than it was to get speaker switching (with impedience matching) and LPADS for volume control. Of coarse it all ties together with Homeseer, Audrey's, Nowplaying and Slink-e with a CD changer or even MP3's if you go that way. My wife loves it!!! I just added X10 Palm pad support to control the volume and play next and previous selections from the back yard.

          You asked:

          What would you all do if you want to distribute audio in your house and your looking at unconnected speaker wires hanging in a wireing closet?

          Well I did it... seperate receivers for as little as $50 for 200 watts!!!!!!!

          How about 1400 watts total power for a whole house audio system??? Trust me... it rocks!!!

          John

          Email me if you want to hear more about it..

          jwilson_56 @ yahoo.com



          I got the Technics SA-EX140 receivers bought off Ebay at low prices

          The XAV61 A/V 6-way distribution amplifier $62 from www.worthdist.com

          I use 4 Audreys I got off Ebay and 3 PC's to access the NPframe by Michael McSharry (part of his SpinnerTivo on this board).

          I will attach the block diagram I uploaded in the past.

          John
          Attached Files
          John

          Comment


            #6
            I also just recently added a Xitel AN1 USB audio device and a stereo mixer to play MP3 files (I ran out of space on the disk changer) with the CDJ/Slink-e setup. The block diagram does not reflect that.

            John
            John

            Comment


              #7
              John,

              I really like your setup and would like to implement a similar system.

              Since I'm starting fresh, I'd like to give some thought to the actual components to use. I have a home theatre receiver with all the bells and whistles - DTS, optical inputs/outputs etc. I'm wondering whether it would be best to use receivers/amplifiers with optical inputs for the others. This would mean using an AV distribution amplifier that also has optical inputs/outputs. I don't know how much this would add to the cost but I'd like to look into it a bit more. Have you considered this in the past? Do you think it's worth considering? Are you aware of any AV distribution amplifiers with optical inputs/outputs?

              For the IR control, I am currently using Ocelot. Hopefully this can provide the same functionality as your setup(?).

              Also for playing MP3 music I'd like to use the Media Player Plug-in integrated with Homeseer (since I spent a lot of time s up and familiarizing myself with it). Hopefully this also will provide similar functionality.

              Thanks for any comments/suggestions.

              Comment


                #8
                I didn't look real hard but I never did find anything for the optical splitter/distribution and really didn't want to incure the cost of receivers with optical inputs either. I figured that since I was using all the 'non optical' receivers for areas like the patio, that it would not even matter. On the BIC speakers I am using ($100 price range) I doubt you could tell the difference.

                I do use an optical connection from my changer to my main Sony ES system but I use the line out from the changer for the other zones. Also unless you are going to use 192 or higher bit rate for your mp3 files I doubt again you would even notice.

                Well the Slink-e is not only used for the IR functionality it also provides the communication to the CD changer through the 'slink' interface. You could use some other scheme I suppose with mp3 files and not use a changer as some people do.

                Well again my setup is centered aroud the CDJ software package that has support for mp3's as well as a number of changers (www.nirvis.com). You can actually download the full version of the CDJ software to try. Its not crippled or anything. They just hope you by the interface. Some guys I think are using mp3's only and never did buy the interface. So if you went that route then your Ocelot would work. I like CDJ because it supports CD covers along with CDDB support. Using the Track2file application you can control CDJ using Homeseer. Just search on 'Track2file' or 'Nowplaying' on this board and you will find all kinds of info. Also download the SpinnerTivo script package from the script library and check out the NPFrame module which is what I used as a base. Michael did a nice job on it. I like the webpage frontend approach because it works with the Audreys I have. Here is a screen shot of my modified NPframe.

                John
                Attached Files
                John

                Comment


                  #9
                  <BLOCKQUOTE class="ip-ubbcode-quote"><font size="-1">quote:</font><HR>Originally posted by johnf:
                  I am creating a PCB for that purpose, at present it controls 4 sets of speakers(left & right) and has relays connected to my homevision unit to provide switching capacity, the pcb is impedance matched and will always show 8ohms to the amp.

                  I can post diagram details if you want.<HR></BLOCKQUOTE>

                  John,

                  I would be highly interested in your imedance matching network and PCB board. If you could post it or e-mail it to me rriley@rilogic.com it would be wonderful.

                  Thanks, Rick

                  Comment

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