Announcement

Collapse
No announcement yet.

home theater/ oscelot/ secu16 and probes- Advice Please

Collapse
This topic is closed.
X
X
 
  • Filter
  • Time
  • Show
Clear All
new posts

    home theater/ oscelot/ secu16 and probes- Advice Please

    Looking to do the plunge into IR/home theater with HS/HSP/HS PCI Voice Modem (currently have installed) and, from the posts, it looks like I need to order an Ocelot and Secu16 as it seems to be the best way to go. I am currently using a dedicated HS PC with weather station and Temp05 alive and working. 30 feet from HS to TV and same distance to viewing area(10 feet for TV to couch). Got a Toshiba DVD and Toshiba RP model 50H81. Looks like discreet IR may not work with the Toshiba stuff so may need to use probes for on/off monitoring.

    Qestions:
    1. What probes/sensors can I use with the Secu16 and how far from the Secu16 can they be?

    2. I read a thread about somebody making their own current sensors. Is this reliable and if not what probes/sensors would you recommmend for the Secu16?

    3. Would the IR-MAX sofware be better than C-MAX for this use?

    I was planning to use a hardwired IR emmitter at the couch end and then hardwire the probes into the SECU16. How far from the Ocelot can the Secu16 be? 20 or 30 feet or is that pushing it too far?

    Pioneer Surround/RCA VCR

    Your help would be appreciated. Thanks...

    #2
    I've used Smartlinc probes and a Smartlink Quad Break-out-box with great success to monitor the state of my TV and Cable box. I used a Smartlinc TV probe on the TV and made my own probe for the Cable Box using a smartlinc LED probe and a Neon type nightlight pluged into the switched AC outlet on my Cable box.

    I've used a 50' extendion cable on my IR sensor with no decrease in operation.

    BOB & Probes: http://www.smarthome.com/1622.HTML

    Comment


      #3
      Was that a "Breakout BOB" and did you hook the breakout box to the Ocelot or Homelinc? 50 foot sounds good!!!

      Comment


        #4
        <BLOCKQUOTE class="ip-ubbcode-quote"><font size="-1">quote:</font><HR>. . . it looks like I need to order an Ocelot and Secu16 . . .
        <HR></BLOCKQUOTE>

        be aware, there is a Secu16 (8in/8out), Secu16I (16in),and a Secu16IR (16IRout)


        <BLOCKQUOTE class="ip-ubbcode-quote"><font size="-1">quote:</font><HR>
        1. What probes/sensors can I use with the Secu16 and how far from the Secu16 can they be?
        <HR></BLOCKQUOTE>

        anything that puts out either 0-5v, or 4-20ma, I have 0-5v temp sensors all over the house, longest run is +60ft . . .

        . . . a Secu16IR is a different aniamal . . . I don't do IR dist (yet), but AFAIK, it can handle all IR emmitters, sensors.


        <BLOCKQUOTE class="ip-ubbcode-quote"><font size="-1">quote:</font><HR>
        2. I read a thread about somebody making their own current sensors. Is this reliable and if not what probes/sensors would you recommmend for the Secu16?
        <HR></BLOCKQUOTE>

        I won't venture a guess here, as mentioned above, I don't do IR, or power sensing (I think this is what you asking) . . .


        3. Would the IR-MAX sofware be better than C-MAX for this use?

        you might need both, they do different things . . . both are free from ADI

        <BLOCKQUOTE class="ip-ubbcode-quote"><font size="-1">quote:</font><HR>
        I was planning to use a hardwired IR emmitter at the couch end and then hardwire the probes into the SECU16. How far from the Ocelot can the Secu16 be? 20 or 30 feet or is that pushing it too far?
        <HR></BLOCKQUOTE>

        no prob, I have a Secu16 more than 50ft from my Leopard, the ADI RS485 bus is fine at these distances


        Pete C

        Comment


          #5
          I plannned on using the SECU16 (8in/8out) for hookup to future "toys".
          So can I wire a detector(such as TV detector probe of LED detector probe from SmartHome) directly to the seperate Inputs on the SECU16? I read the Oscelot and SECU16 manuals on line and they didn't say much about detectors/probes etc.
          Can you use a Houselinc Breakout Box(BOB) with the Ocelot and keep track of seperate detectors with the Ocelot and/or HS?

          Comment


            #6
            This thread discusses the use of crmagnetic current switches for power detection, it's over at the applied digital forums:
            http://www.appdigsupport.com/cgi-bin...c;f=7;t=000025

            Here's a device that's a more cost effective approach than buying SmartHome's digital BOB: http://www.appdigsupport.com/cgi-bin...c;f=7;t=000183 or http://home.nc.rr.com/tacairlift/PowerDetector.mht or http://home.nc.rr.com/tacairlift/Pow...erdetector.htm
            You can buy it as a kit, but tacairlift may build you one for a fee (have to ask him).

            Now, if you use the crmagnetics current swithces, either CR 9321 ( http://www.crmagnetics.com/newprod/P...rodName=CR9321 ) or CR9350 ( http://www.crmagnetics.com/newprod/P...rodName=CR9350 ) you do not need any sort of digital BOB becuase they output only on or off (digital) commands. The problem is that with really low draw devices (like my cable box) it takes a lot of trial and error to get them to work. Other things where there is a significant difference in current draw between the on and off state, are really easy to setup. Unfortunately, some things use almost as much power in standby as they do switched on.

            If you have devices that draw lots of standby power, but have an LED power status light on them, then you can use an LED detector in conjuction with tacairlift's power detector or the Smarthome digital BOB.

            I was able to get all of my equipment, less my cable box, to work with just the crmagnetics current switches. And the beauty about them, is that they hook directly to the SECU16 inputs in supervised mode.

            One day I'll break down and buy one of tacairlift's kits. Till then, I'm just leaving the cable box on all the time, and hoping there aren't any power failures whenI send it a command over the web.

            John | My HomeSeer | HomeSeer Webring | See My Profile for system configuration
            John
            Hardware: i5-6400T w/16GB RAM & SSD w/HS3Pro, Z-Net, Harmony Hub x2, Echo Dot x2, Ocelot
            Plugins: Z-wave, HSTouch, BLBackup, Harmony, GTS CPUXA, UltraMon3, Nest
            HSTouch: Multiple Android Devices; 5 x ToteVision MD-1001 10.1" Win 7 Tablets
            Devices: Cooper RF9501 x4, RF9517 x6, RF9534 x1, RF9540-N x7, RF9542 x1, RF9542-Z x2, RFHDSCG x1, RFWC5 x5; Intermatic HA02 x6; FortrezZ MIMOLite x3; Leviton VRPD3-1LW x4, VRR15-1LZ x6; Nest Tstat & 9x Protects; Dragon PD-100 x3, PA-100 x3

            Comment


              #7
              YO MICK:

              Look about half way down the link in my previous reply.
              A digital BOB (Break-Out-Box) takes the analog output of the Smartlinc probes and converts it to a digital signal that can be detected by your SECU-16. You'll need to set the SECU-16 Parameters (I used #2=5 and #3=255) for correct operation.
              The quad digital BOB has four inputs /outputs. Connect each output you'll be using to one of the SECU-16 inputs, you will need to connect a 1K 1/4 watt resistor across all the connected outputs of the BOB or they will pull the output to 5 volts. The BOB comes with it's own powersupply AKA: wallwort.
              More informaton can be found at Applied Digital Support: (http://www.appdigsupport.com)

              [This message was edited by PaulH on Mon, 08 December 2003 at 08:56 AM.]

              [This message was edited by PaulH on Mon, 08 December 2003 at 08:58 AM.]

              Comment


                #8
                Thanks guys! I really appreciate the time and good advice you have given me. Now I just have to break open the piggy bank...

                Comment


                  #9
                  The Toshiba DVD will turn On (only) from Off with a Play command. So a macro for Play|Stop=On and Play|Power_Toggle=Off.

                  There is a video sensor that detects composite video from the video out RCA connector on the back of your set. If the TV is On it will sense that. You can connect that to the SECU16 to detect the contact closure of the relay in the video detector.

                  http://www.aaroncake.net/circuits/vidswitch.htm

                  I used both of these methods for a Toshiba DVD and TV and it is very reliable.

                  -Jon

                  Comment


                    #10
                    <BLOCKQUOTE class="ip-ubbcode-quote"><font size="-1">quote:</font><HR>Originally posted by PaulH:

                    A digital BOB (Break-Out-Box) takes the analog output of the Smartlinc probes and converts it to a digital signal that can be detected by your SECU-16. <HR></BLOCKQUOTE>


                    . . . the Secu16 can do analog, you need to pull a jumper . . . this stops the 5v pull-up . . . then read the 'param' instead of the 'point'

                    Pete C

                    Comment


                      #11
                      <BLOCKQUOTE class="ip-ubbcode-quote"><font size="-1">quote:</font><HR>Originally posted by pete17c:

                      . . . the Secu16 can do analog, you need to pull a jumper . . . this stops the 5v pull-up . . . then read the 'param' instead of the 'point'

                      Pete C<HR></BLOCKQUOTE>

                      True, but the BOB interfaces the probes better with the SECU.

                      Comment


                        #12
                        <BLOCKQUOTE class="ip-ubbcode-quote"><font size="-1">quote:</font><HR>Originally posted by PaulH:

                        True, but the BOB interfaces the probes better with the SECU.<HR></BLOCKQUOTE>

                        better ? how ? . . .

                        . . .for $70 I think a little C-Max code goes a long way . . .

                        with the BOB, it sounds like your getting a analog value anyway (because of the need to mess with the Secu16 params # 2&3, whcih really just adjust the on/off points of the analog value, doing the same thing I think you using the BOB for) . . . by pulling the jumper (and 1K resistors), and reading the param for decision making, you can do in a C-Max program what your using the BOB for . . .

                        Pete C

                        Comment


                          #13
                          I got two Quad Digital BOBs for less than thirty dollars at the SmartHome Auction web page. Also to connect the probes directly you will need to cut off the 1/8" stereo plugs and figure out what wires to use, Plus supply power to the probes. The BOB does all that without voiding the warranties of the probes. And yes probes do go bad, I had a TV probe fail and SmartHome replaced it for just the cost of return shipping.
                          Why reinvent the wheel?

                          Comment


                            #14
                            $15 a piece is a much better price point, and for convienience sake, I could understand going that route . . .

                            . . . but it would still be cheaper to get a bunch of 1/8" stereo jacks and wire the sensors straight to the Secu16, plugs intact . . .

                            . . . not trying to reinvent the wheel, but I don't see a need to add more to my buggy when the one's I have will do fine . . .

                            Pete C

                            Comment


                              #15
                              Pete17c:

                              I guess this has gone as far as it will go, let's just agree to disagree.

                              For me it just boils down to what's your degree of comfort (pleasure theshold?).

                              Comment

                              Working...
                              X