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Under kitchen cabinet LED lamps with mcsMQTT control

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  • Pete
    replied
    I can see them fine on the H801 RGB board which is larger than the Magic Home RGB board.

    Will just follow the traces with a VOM to hopefully solder using a pin hole rather than the ESP chip.

    Here for the Garage lighting switched over to multiple 120 VAC 6000k LED lamps for that daylight look last year.

    Ideally it would be nice to change over to using 12VDC for these lighting.

    Leave a comment:


  • kriz83
    replied
    Can you easily read the GPIO pins ?
    Seems perfect for my garage door project ...

    Leave a comment:


  • Pete
    replied
    Great stuff!!!

    Thank you John.

    Posted your video here.



    Where can I get the on/off and dimmer pot?

    Do you have a schematic for the pot / switch wiring?

    Did you modify the Espurna firmware?

    Leave a comment:


  • lj502
    replied
    Pete, I figured it out using a rotary encoder, works nice. I flashed Espurna using gpio's 0,2,4 for the encoder on a Magic Home controller.
    On/Off and dimming all on one knob for a couple bucks.
    https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=TwK5t6esXu0

    John

    Leave a comment:


  • Pete
    replied
    Yes it is John.

    What I have installed works, WAF is high and is simple. No need to complicate it. Time to move on to finish my new SonOff based 1-Wire stuff.

    Leave a comment:


  • lj502
    replied
    Pete, A couple of my MagicHome controllers have IR built in so I went back and flashed ESPurna again and dug out the remote for it, The remote works like factory stock (on/off, dim up/down, and color choice) with the ESPurna firmware. So on my gas pumps I am adding an IR receiver to each controller which will give me full local control (manual) and full automation control also. When the remote is used MQTT updates HS3 instantly, so its almost perfect. I believe the Tasmota firmware will handle IR also but you need to define everything in rules, but you can use any remote control you have.
    Time to move on, lol.

    John

    Leave a comment:


  • Pete
    replied
    The current under the counter strip with diffuser is about 1/2" in size. Running another strip next to it would not really be noticed except for the ultra bright white lite under the kitchen cabinet. I could just put two micro switches to the fixed output of two tracks with one left at daytime 100% and the other at nightime 40% or go the analog way (but it is a bit too much now for this endeavor). Wife is happy right now with the Sonoff SV and the wall switch and the pot on the case to dim it down.

    Leave a comment:


  • lj502
    replied
    Pete, Was reading and now I lost it, the analog voltage input limit is 1 volt, so you need something to limit or divide your pot output I think.
    Another option for you might be just setting up more switches and using them as presets for your dimming, On/Off and High/Low or whatever.

    John

    Leave a comment:


  • Pete
    replied
    Thank you John.

    Looking at the close up drawings. I did wire up GPIO 16 D0 ESP8266EX on the SonOff WiFi board. Ground and 3.3VDC are the easy connects.


    Click image for larger version  Name:	H801-GPIO16.jpg Views:	1 Size:	82.9 KB ID:	1249211

    Geez using Visio on Ubuntu via PlayOnLinux and getting MS Office pop ups??

    xxxxxxxxxx

    Leave a comment:


  • lj502
    replied
    Pete, on the wiki there is a link to examples under the Rules link to the right
    6. Use a potentiometer

    Connecting a potentiometer to the Analog A0 input and a rule can be used to control the dimmer state of any device.

    Hardware
    • Wemos D1 mini
    • Potentiometer of 2k2 connected to Gnd, A0 and 3V3
    • WS2812 led

    Software
    • Sonoff-Tasmota v5.12.0n or up with define USE_RULES enabled

    Rule
    • on analog#a0div10 do dimmer %value% endon

    Result
    • Turning the potentiometer the voltage on the analog input will change resulting in a value change of 0 (Off) to 100 for the trigger. Using this value to control the dimmer of the WS2812 will control the brightness of the led(s)

    Rule
    • on analog#a0div10 do publish cmnd/grouplight/dimmer %value% endon

    Result
    • This time all lights configured with GroupTopic grouplight will change their brightness according to the potentiometer position.

    Might just be the ticket here.

    John

    Leave a comment:


  • Pete
    replied
    John....I have not looked. There is enough room in the 801 controller case for a pot. Do you have a schematic for this control?

    I was going to switch out the Sonoff SV combo manual dimmer pot for the newly updated RGB controller using one channel for dimming.

    So what does work so far is:

    1 - combo SV and manual pot for dimming remembers last dim level which is fine except that I dim one LED set of lamps every night.

    2 - new dimmable transformer work fine with my UPB combo switch. That dimmable transformer and UPB light module are on top of the 7 foot high book shelves such that I will be leaving the control alone for time bean. The double decora UPB paddle works great. Bottom paddle just sends links (on, off, dim level) to the lamp module on the top of the book shelf.

    3 - RGB 801 5 channel controller (mosquitto) works fine with one channel except I have no manual control on it. It does remember the dim level if I power off the device.

    I have a few shelves here with LED 120VAC powered cob lights first generation. They sort of work but only offer one dim level.

    One is a wood and glass curio cabinet and the others are large wood cabinets with glass shelves. I am wondering if I could convert these to 12 VDC cob style and dimmable LED lamps (not strips). I do not think though that 120VAC style bulbs with E bases are sold as 12VDC style bulbs.

    Leave a comment:


  • lj502
    replied
    Pete, Have you looked at the Rules in Tasmota, we should be able to add a pot to a gpio and use it as a variable to set the dimmer on the same device (or others). With the 801 controller it should be easy enough to wire up, also these modules can be setup as a single color controller allowing the use of those other gpios.
    I had the same troubles trying to dim transformers and ended up with a manual pot for some lights which was fine anyway.
    John

    Leave a comment:


  • Pete
    replied
    Redoing the office lighting updating the UPB switch to a double toggle switch as I was using the current toggle linked to the light module for LED use.

    Did a drawing of my connections. Reprograming the switch pictured and will remove current switch and replace it with said switch.

    Click image for larger version  Name:	OfficeLighting.jpg Views:	1 Size:	158.3 KB ID:	1248910

    Might change the switch configuration to a relay configuration then install a small LED transformer and connect it to a 12 VDC LED pot to hard set dimming. Well might move the combo Sonoff SV device that I made there.

    Using Upstart noticed that I have a universal UPB base mounted on the switch. Just changed removed the single toggle face plate and installed a dual toggle face plate. Easier than removing the switch and replacing it. Programmed the two toggles on it with the bottom toggle controlling the light module over the book shelf. I cannot change one toggle to a relay such that the switch has to function as a dimmer or relay but not both.

    Found out with the new dimmable power supply I cannot dim up to whatever over 5 seconds without the LED's flickering. If I set the dim level to instant then I get no flickering of the over the shelf LED lamps.
    Last edited by Pete; September 22, 2018, 03:26 PM.

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  • Pete
    replied
    Found a couple of el cheapo Ebay 120VAC WiFi wall switches to tinker with. These work on and off and dimming.

    Leviton is starting to sell WiFi switches. These do not currently work with the OmniPro 2 panel. The OP2 panel is like a multiple protocal controller on steroids. Primitive using a serial bus for the Alarm and automation functions. I currently have X10, UPB, ZWave and Zigbee controllers connected to the panel.

    I do not think it would be that difficult to add a wifi Leviton module connected serially to the OmniPro 2 panel.

    All of the serial lighting configurations (X10, UPB, ZWave and Zigbee) are identical units that go on or off or dim.

    I am currently using an OpenWrt micro router connected via network in the OP2 panel. I have tested the serial port on it to the panel and can talk fine to the panel. I can chat mosquitto with OpenWRT such that you could communication from OP2 panel serially or via network to the OpenWRT stuff.

    Guessing that the "My Leviton" app is similiar to the "ewink" application.

    Click image for larger version  Name:	levitondecorasmart.jpg Views:	1 Size:	69.6 KB ID:	1248873

    The Ebay Wifi switches are cheap and using 120 VAC standard US switch decora configurations. They are both around $15 USD and glass.

    Taking it apart to see about JTAGing it. Looks larger such that it might be easier to find the JTAG pins on it.

    Click image for larger version  Name:	dimmer.jpg Views:	1 Size:	38.4 KB ID:	1248870

    And while searching here on Ebay also found similiar to the above 120VAC to 12VAC dimmable power supplies for $2.50 with free shipping (versus around $10 on Amazon).

    Click image for larger version  Name:	dimmableLED power supply.jpg Views:	1 Size:	145.4 KB ID:	1248871

    Ideally a wall switch combo dimmer combo LED 12VDC power supply would be nicest.

    IE: it would look like a regular 120 VAC wall switch with on and off and dimming on it except that it would have a 12VDC LED strip output on it and using mosquitto control.
    Last edited by Pete; September 22, 2018, 09:18 AM.

    Leave a comment:


  • Pete
    replied
    BTW did not get my 120VAC 12VDC LED dimmer module yet. That said I received documentation today from the vendor relating to installation and UL approval of said device.

    12V 12W Dimmable CV DC LED Driver ETL (UL) approved.

    EV-12V-1000-12D.install.pdf

    illuminous

    Received LED driver yesterday. It is small enough to fit inside of an electrical box with a dimmer.

    Cut the end off of an old lamp corn for 120VAC input and used 18 guage wire for 12VDC output. The LED ends are using 20 guage wire. Twisted and taped 12VDC wires. Today peeling the 3M stick to mount the LED strip directly on the top book shelves.

    Tested dimming with an SA (old) UPB module which was used for the puck lighting.
    Works fine here. Noticed you do not really see the dimming until you are at around 50%. I am able to dim it down fine to 5-10%.

    Indirect lighting is more even than the puck lighting.

    Note that the dimming driver is rated to 12 Watt which is 1 AMP at 12 VDC.

    In the kitchen to date have used 1 AMP (12 Watt) and 1.25 AMPs (15 Watts)

    For the bookshelves used two 40" strips of SMD2835 warm 3000-3500K X 80" which is less than 12 Watts ==> 16.4 feet 196" = 24 watts

    Today leaving the bookshelf LEDs on at 100% to check on heat relating to driver. Note that the puck lamps were very hot.

    Waiting on the update / automation / modification of RGB dimmer which should arrive soon.

    Company used "Speedpak" for shipping which makes it go to New York customs where it sits before going to Chicago. The other USPS shipping now arrives directly to Chicago which speeds up delivery.

    Personally here like using multiple small LED power supplies rather than one larger one under the cabinets. I like the dimming better at the 12VDC level versus the 120VAC level.

    The controller does get a bit warm but not even close to the 120VAC pucks. Removed the pucks today and taped down the LED strip. Easy peasy. Used tiny wire nuts for the 12VDC wires. Indirect lighting looks good and more even than the 4 pucks up their.

    I do not get the nice granularity in dimming that I get doing this via 12VDC. Noticed too that it's too bright for indirect lighting unless I dim it down to around 10-20% (no flickering which is good). The UPB lamp module is linked to the UPB wall switch module. I utilize a single or double tap and the links are attached to dim levels. So playing again here and switching out the 120VAC dimmer LED power module to a regular 120VAC to 1 AMP LED power supply with a set level pot and turning the UPB dimming lamp module to an on and off relay (its just a setting on the configuration). Over complicating this a bit.
    Attached Files
    Last edited by Pete; September 22, 2018, 05:57 AM.

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