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Under kitchen cabinet LED lamps with mcsMQTT control

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  • Pete
    replied
    John,

    Dimming features would be nice. Switch functions would be:

    1 - on and off analog style or touch style
    2 - dimming analog style toggle or touch style

    Seeing interchangable and modular face plates with decora style toggles or just glass touch on or off or dim functions.

    I would be willing to tinker with your idea John building an arduino device to the back of the switch.

    That said it is easier to reverse engineer a wifi switch and updated the firmware for use with Mosquitto.

    I still here prefer to use metal boxes and conduit for home electricity than plastic boxes and romex (have had both). That is me though.

    Old fashioned here. I like copper over PVC plumbing except for the sewer stuff.

    Leave a comment:


  • lj502
    replied
    Kinda related, I'm guessing these switch plates are nothing more than something like this, no penny I 'm betting.
    Click image for larger version

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    Add voltage add it is a fancy momentary switch. You can also make your own touch device by wiring off the board, hence the penny. It works perfectly, I was gonna use some big upholstery nails to hide some switches. touch here, touch there, click.
    Anyway seems like an easy add on to any Sonoff, Arduino, Nodemcu, ect.

    John

    Leave a comment:


  • lj502
    replied
    I was thinking about those touch panel switches and I wonder why you could not just use one of those Aeotec touch panels for their Zwave module. It is just a simple switch without the zwave attached, 3.3 volts, and switch leads, It seems it would simple to add to a Sonoff module, just a push button that needs 3 volts. 8 bucks shipped on Amazon, who's first.
    Click image for larger version

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    John

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  • Pete
    replied
    Yeah noticed that they are selling in the EU and now make them for the US but no UL approved stuff. The designs all appear similiar and very modular. The depth of the switch is less than 1" with the terminals side mounted. The glass face plate is modular and they sell analog face plates or touch glass face plates. Thing too is that the switch has to function with or without automation. On the Google SonOff groups section there are users starting to take apart the Sonoff versions and looking for JTAG connections to upgrade the firmware.

    The ones I really like are called Livolo. Very modular. They are starting to sell US styled switches. Not UL approved.

    All of the wifi switches sold at the big box stores now are UL approved. That said prices are up there.


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  • Michael McSharry
    replied
    What wall switches do you like. The only one I found on search was no UL certified.

    Leave a comment:


  • Pete
    replied
    Dunno yet about the new power supply...getting it tomorrow from Amazon. Reviews mostly positive that I have read. It is about the same size as the 1 AMP in wall box LED power supplies I am using. Not sure though it would fit inside of a box with an automated switch as here (Midwest) have all electric conduit, metal boxes and metal mudplates.

    Probably paying too much for it at ~$10 but I like the 2 day shipping of Amazon Prime stuff.

    Decided yesterday that the less dense warm 3000k top of the bookshelf / kitchen cabinets really do not need any dimming.

    How does the Mosquitto broker run on Windows relating to resources?

    I keep repurposing the old RPi's here and now making them multitasking.... attic RPi is a ZNet like device, SDR NOAA device and Node Red OWFS device...

    IE: 1-Wire started with the Midon serial Temp0X stuff and xAP a few years back, then shifted over to using Node Red / OWFS Mosquitto and now shifting over to using a SonOff (well two of them). Just started to wire up new sensors to the SonOff in the basement...going to go to DHT22's for humidity sensors.

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    Been testing the Sonoff GDO (door sensors, button and temperature sensor) Mosquitto to be as fast as the wired OmniPro security panel sensors via the Omni HS3 plugin here. I am impressed. Temperature is off and thinking now to remove these as they do not really work as well as a my old AAG DSB1820 temperature sensors such that will be removing the GDO sensor to remove integrated temperature sensor and add terminals to it for an external temperature sensor. Just a little soldering and super glue.

    I like those new crytal glass looking WiFi wall switches with touch interfaces. It would be nice if you can update the firmware to using Mosquitto.

    Here tested a Python Mosquitto broker that runs on my tiny OpenWRT tinker toy routers (micro travel routers) and it works well.

    Leave a comment:


  • lj502
    replied
    Pete, All looks very good, man you stay busy! How does that new power supply dim? Are you looking for automated dimming or local or both?
    Installed a MQTT broker last night and have been playing for hours now, don't have a spare RPI so I started with Mosquitto in windows, found a site with an unzipable folder that contains everything for windows, unzip, click, and it was up and running (didn't learn anything, but sure was easy) in under a minute. My Sonoff order should be here soon.

    John

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  • Pete
    replied
    Worked on another LED strip endeavor today.

    This is for the home office and maybe the tops of the kitchen cabinets.

    The strips will be mounted on top of two book shelves each 48" long X 7 feet tall.

    Made up 2 3000k and 2 5000k strips and tested illumination.

    5000k are too white for the indirect lighting. 3000k looks best. These are replacing 2 X 2 Xenon 20 watt pucks.

    They will be automated and testing out a new dimmable 12VDC power supply with these which will be controlled by UPB light switch.

    Click image for larger version  Name:	Dimmable LED power supply.jpg Views:	1 Size:	36.8 KB ID:	1248095

    Looks to be around the same size as the other power supplies I have been using.

    I was using tiny wiring LED crimper clips on the last two LED tracks I made.

    Difficult (PITA) to use. I soldered on wires with the last 4 tested strips for bookshelf. Much easier to solder on leads than it is to utilize clips. I made a mistake with one strip cutting it a bit too short so lengthened it with another strip soldering the ends. Very easy to do this.

    Just scrap off the plastic coating, put a bit of flux and used a drop of solder for the connections.

    Here is a picture of the interstrip soldering and soldered on power leads. I used a little screw driver to scrape the power traces and a bit of flux and painters tape to hold the leads on to the traces. Worked great.

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    Tested the 5000k SMD5050 LED strips last night noticed that they were too bright facing the ceiling from the top of the bookshelves. Today making 3000k strips and will use those.

    Last edited by Pete; September 19, 2018, 09:49 AM.

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  • Pete
    replied
    Almost finished wiring up LED power supply in 4X4 box. A little tight this time. Using a Leviton decora style paddle switch and outlet here. The paddle switch will be for the under counter LED lamps in the vicinity. I extended the 120 VAC hot and neutral leads a bit using white and black wires soldered and heat shrink wrapped. Now at the point of connecting the LED power supply to the 120VAC neutral bundle and switched load on the Leviton combo switch.

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    It was easy to push back the wire nuts and wire in to the box. Here is a picture of the completed wall switch and outlet combo. This one controls 3 strips of LED lighting which will only be turned on for cooking stuff mostly and will not be automated.

    There are outlets about every two feet along the kitchen counter such that losing one outlet to a switch is really not be big deal.

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    For the 12VDC coming out of the wall using a female barrel connector and a new paint stick.

    Drilled a hole in the paint stick for the barrel connector. Cut it to be 1" X 1.5".

    Will stick it to the wall with tiny screws and or a bit of glue.

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    For the LED lamps cut the coaxial cables off, twisted the 12VDC wires and ground wires and one coaxial connector wires. Soldered and used heat shrink such that all three LED aluminum rails with diffusers go to one coaxial connector to one wall socket.

    Plug n play if I want to add a dimmer and or automated switch sometime in the future.

    Here is a picture of the wooden 1.5" X 1.0 " with barrel connector on the wall and the 12VDC barrel plug.

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    I installed it above the duplex outlet such that it is not at the edge of the cabinet which I do not like.

    Going to move it today to the edge of the kitchen cabinet.

    In order to do this will need to drill a small hole in the 2 X 4 separating the cavities then pass the wire between the cavities and move the barrel connector to the edge of the cabinet where all of the three LED track wires meet.

    Been using some new quick drying spackle patching compound which is very quick drying stuff from Red Devil. That and I have touch up paint.

    Moved tiny wall plate over to corner edge / lip of counter. You do not really see it whether in the middle or edge unless you look under the cabinet such that I did make an issue of the aesthetics of this (well and WAF). I like the flush mount look. Originally was going to utilize a single jack sized telco box which really has a larger footprint than this.


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    Spackled and painted over holes. Looks better to have connector at edge of cabinet versus center of cabinet. Today making another wooden plate for LED endeavor #1 with same female barrel connector to make configuration more modular.

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    Note this endeavor of the 3 LED sets will not be dimmed or automated and used only on demand for cooking. It is high on the WAF.

    Last edited by Pete; September 18, 2018, 06:06 PM.

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  • Pete
    replied
    The over stove microwave with exhaust fan has two lamps to illuminate the top of the stove.

    I changed the small 25 watt incandescent appliance bulbs to LED appliance bulbs a few years back.

    The 120 VAC LED bulbs are better but still poorly illuminate the top of the stove.

    Today noticed that there is a bottom metal plate screwed on to the bottom of the microwave. It is thick and rounded at the edges metal. Beyond the screws holding the plate in place it is pretty empty along the edges.

    There are three small sheet metal screws holding the front part of the plate under the microwave.

    Removed the screws and put in 3 brackets to hold another aluminum with diffuser track. Made up another LED lamp and clipped it in to place. Ran the 12VDC insulated cable to the back of the microwave in the cover hollow space. The aluminum track and diffuser looks much OEM now.

    Much better stove top illumination now for the 5 gas burners (2 + 1 + 2)

    The aluminum track color doesn't match the color of the microwave or stove which is black and stainless steel but you cannot really see the LED track much.

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    Here is a picture of the top of the stove with the new LED illumination.

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    Last edited by Pete; September 14, 2018, 11:40 AM.

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  • Pete
    replied
    John,

    Yes here tested the ESPurna firmware and the Tasmota on the Sonoff SV using Mosquitto to the mcsMQTT plugin.

    I have now two SonOff WiFi basics doing multitasking using mcsTasmota firmware.

    I like the ESPurna firmware because it allows you to configure a static IP and has telnet and I like the debug console and mosquitto is mosquitto relating to configuration. (easy peasey stuff).

    Same author tested the RGB 5 channel device with his firmware and appeared to like the flexibility of the hardware.

    Still doing baby steps with Mosquitto.

    There is a short story here relating to Arduinos. A few years back purchased a few arduino's and fishing tackle boxes chock full of ardunio tinkering sensors.

    Well started to tinker in my home office. One day while tinkering I flipped some tiny piece of Arduino hardware across my office which took some two hour to find.

    I then decided to switch to tinkering with RPi hardware as it was larger mostly and drifted off to tinkering with Micro routers and OpenWRT. One of the first RPi projects was the NOAA satellite maps stuff and another was a lightning sensor.

    I will get back to Arduino tinkering some time or another. I am now using the little plastic tackle boxes to modify what I have purchased.

    Leave a comment:


  • lj502
    replied
    Pete, I used the same led drivers in my gas pumps, seem to work fine. I was curios what firmware you have decided on, right now all mine (9) are flashed with the latest Espurna. I am just getting curious about Mqtt, right now just sending http commands from HS3 for control.

    Another question, have you considered just running them under the Arduino plugin, seems like you would be able to add local control easier, thinking out loud really.

    John

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  • Pete
    replied
    Moving on with endeavor made up two more LED strips 5000k / SMD5050 aluminum rails with diffusers and mounted them to cabinets on both side of combo stove and micro wave. Tested them and WAF is high for illumination of preparation areas.

    These two strips will either be on or off and not dimmed. May not automate them for time bean.

    Purchased a combo outlet toggle decora style switch and LED power supply.

    Here will remove current duplex outlet, install LED power supply and use the combo switch to power on and off LED power supply.

    Wanting to keep same size footprint here as the current duplex outlet. Initially was going to install a double duplex mudplate and use old outlet with a new decora style switch. There are single duplex outlets every couple of feet along the kitchen counters mounted horizontally. They are all in 4X4 boxes with single duplex mudplates on them.

    Outlet for switch installation is typically only used for the crock pot. I was able to pass a 12VDC wire in a slot with a horizontal space behind the Microwave oven bracket for cabinet to cabinet LED power. This was easier than going to the basement down inside a wall across to another wall and up fishing the cables.

    Most difficult piece of the endeavor here is using the tiny LED strip connectors. I soldered the power wires to one side one clip and fixed clip inside of aluminum track crimping the track a bit to hold the connector in place.

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    Last edited by Pete; September 13, 2018, 09:25 AM.

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  • Pete
    replied
    Very nice John.

    It's been a couple of years now that I saw an old gas pump top in someone's driveway for sale. I procrastinated a bit and someone else purchased it after two days.

    I am not using RGB for the kitchen lights and may utilize the channels for more white LED lamps. The controller channels would control different tracks of LED lighting. Might also install some on the top of the kitchen cabinets. I like the light better than the cans in the kitchen ceiling.

    Checked today relating to running the 12VDC down the wall and to the basement and under the kitchen and up another wall. It is just fishing some low voltage wire in the walls. I have some 16/2 vinyl clad cable that I used for the in wall speakers every where. Really though 16/2 though is too thick anyhow.

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  • lj502
    replied
    Pete, I use this simple setup in a cabinet that my wife likes to control her way. Just some warm white 5050 strips a power supply and a dimmer. I mounted them as uplights as she wanted and just hid the dimmer in a lower cabinet, I bet they have not been touched in over 4 years, just a z-wave lamp module for on/off.

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    If everything was this easy!!

    John

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