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    #46
    Moving on with endeavor made up two more LED strips 5000k / SMD5050 aluminum rails with diffusers and mounted them to cabinets on both side of combo stove and micro wave. Tested them and WAF is high for illumination of preparation areas.

    These two strips will either be on or off and not dimmed. May not automate them for time bean.

    Purchased a combo outlet toggle decora style switch and LED power supply.

    Here will remove current duplex outlet, install LED power supply and use the combo switch to power on and off LED power supply.

    Wanting to keep same size footprint here as the current duplex outlet. Initially was going to install a double duplex mudplate and use old outlet with a new decora style switch. There are single duplex outlets every couple of feet along the kitchen counters mounted horizontally. They are all in 4X4 boxes with single duplex mudplates on them.

    Outlet for switch installation is typically only used for the crock pot. I was able to pass a 12VDC wire in a slot with a horizontal space behind the Microwave oven bracket for cabinet to cabinet LED power. This was easier than going to the basement down inside a wall across to another wall and up fishing the cables.

    Most difficult piece of the endeavor here is using the tiny LED strip connectors. I soldered the power wires to one side one clip and fixed clip inside of aluminum track crimping the track a bit to hold the connector in place.

    Click image for larger version  Name:	LEDDriver.jpg Views:	1 Size:	41.7 KB ID:	1247157


    Click image for larger version  Name:	outlet.jpg Views:	1 Size:	39.8 KB ID:	1247158
    Last edited by Pete; September 13, 2018, 09:25 AM.
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      #47
      Pete, I used the same led drivers in my gas pumps, seem to work fine. I was curios what firmware you have decided on, right now all mine (9) are flashed with the latest Espurna. I am just getting curious about Mqtt, right now just sending http commands from HS3 for control.

      Another question, have you considered just running them under the Arduino plugin, seems like you would be able to add local control easier, thinking out loud really.

      John

      Comment


        #48
        John,

        Yes here tested the ESPurna firmware and the Tasmota on the Sonoff SV using Mosquitto to the mcsMQTT plugin.

        I have now two SonOff WiFi basics doing multitasking using mcsTasmota firmware.

        I like the ESPurna firmware because it allows you to configure a static IP and has telnet and I like the debug console and mosquitto is mosquitto relating to configuration. (easy peasey stuff).

        Same author tested the RGB 5 channel device with his firmware and appeared to like the flexibility of the hardware.

        Still doing baby steps with Mosquitto.

        There is a short story here relating to Arduinos. A few years back purchased a few arduino's and fishing tackle boxes chock full of ardunio tinkering sensors.

        Well started to tinker in my home office. One day while tinkering I flipped some tiny piece of Arduino hardware across my office which took some two hour to find.

        I then decided to switch to tinkering with RPi hardware as it was larger mostly and drifted off to tinkering with Micro routers and OpenWRT. One of the first RPi projects was the NOAA satellite maps stuff and another was a lightning sensor.

        I will get back to Arduino tinkering some time or another. I am now using the little plastic tackle boxes to modify what I have purchased.
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          #49
          The over stove microwave with exhaust fan has two lamps to illuminate the top of the stove.

          I changed the small 25 watt incandescent appliance bulbs to LED appliance bulbs a few years back.

          The 120 VAC LED bulbs are better but still poorly illuminate the top of the stove.

          Today noticed that there is a bottom metal plate screwed on to the bottom of the microwave. It is thick and rounded at the edges metal. Beyond the screws holding the plate in place it is pretty empty along the edges.

          There are three small sheet metal screws holding the front part of the plate under the microwave.

          Removed the screws and put in 3 brackets to hold another aluminum with diffuser track. Made up another LED lamp and clipped it in to place. Ran the 12VDC insulated cable to the back of the microwave in the cover hollow space. The aluminum track and diffuser looks much OEM now.

          Much better stove top illumination now for the 5 gas burners (2 + 1 + 2)

          The aluminum track color doesn't match the color of the microwave or stove which is black and stainless steel but you cannot really see the LED track much.

          Click image for larger version  Name:	microwave.jpg Views:	1 Size:	101.9 KB ID:	1247319

          Here is a picture of the top of the stove with the new LED illumination.

          Click image for larger version

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          Last edited by Pete; September 14, 2018, 11:40 AM.
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            #50
            Almost finished wiring up LED power supply in 4X4 box. A little tight this time. Using a Leviton decora style paddle switch and outlet here. The paddle switch will be for the under counter LED lamps in the vicinity. I extended the 120 VAC hot and neutral leads a bit using white and black wires soldered and heat shrink wrapped. Now at the point of connecting the LED power supply to the 120VAC neutral bundle and switched load on the Leviton combo switch.

            Click image for larger version  Name:	NewLEDConnections.jpg Views:	1 Size:	96.3 KB ID:	1247534

            It was easy to push back the wire nuts and wire in to the box. Here is a picture of the completed wall switch and outlet combo. This one controls 3 strips of LED lighting which will only be turned on for cooking stuff mostly and will not be automated.

            There are outlets about every two feet along the kitchen counter such that losing one outlet to a switch is really not be big deal.

            Click image for larger version  Name:	wallswitch.jpg Views:	1 Size:	83.2 KB ID:	1247580

            For the 12VDC coming out of the wall using a female barrel connector and a new paint stick.

            Drilled a hole in the paint stick for the barrel connector. Cut it to be 1" X 1.5".

            Will stick it to the wall with tiny screws and or a bit of glue.

            Click image for larger version  Name:	barrelconnector.jpg Views:	1 Size:	102.3 KB ID:	1247596


            For the LED lamps cut the coaxial cables off, twisted the 12VDC wires and ground wires and one coaxial connector wires. Soldered and used heat shrink such that all three LED aluminum rails with diffusers go to one coaxial connector to one wall socket.

            Plug n play if I want to add a dimmer and or automated switch sometime in the future.

            Here is a picture of the wooden 1.5" X 1.0 " with barrel connector on the wall and the 12VDC barrel plug.

            Click image for larger version  Name:	12VDCLEDConnector.jpg Views:	1 Size:	61.7 KB ID:	1247659

            I installed it above the duplex outlet such that it is not at the edge of the cabinet which I do not like.

            Going to move it today to the edge of the kitchen cabinet.

            In order to do this will need to drill a small hole in the 2 X 4 separating the cavities then pass the wire between the cavities and move the barrel connector to the edge of the cabinet where all of the three LED track wires meet.

            Been using some new quick drying spackle patching compound which is very quick drying stuff from Red Devil. That and I have touch up paint.

            Moved tiny wall plate over to corner edge / lip of counter. You do not really see it whether in the middle or edge unless you look under the cabinet such that I did make an issue of the aesthetics of this (well and WAF). I like the flush mount look. Originally was going to utilize a single jack sized telco box which really has a larger footprint than this.


            Click image for larger version  Name:	12VDCLEDConnector-2.jpg Views:	1 Size:	78.7 KB ID:	1247658

            Spackled and painted over holes. Looks better to have connector at edge of cabinet versus center of cabinet. Today making another wooden plate for LED endeavor #1 with same female barrel connector to make configuration more modular.

            Click image for larger version  Name:	image_71585.jpg Views:	1 Size:	124.2 KB ID:	1247810

            Note this endeavor of the 3 LED sets will not be dimmed or automated and used only on demand for cooking. It is high on the WAF.

            Last edited by Pete; September 18, 2018, 06:06 PM.
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              #51
              Worked on another LED strip endeavor today.

              This is for the home office and maybe the tops of the kitchen cabinets.

              The strips will be mounted on top of two book shelves each 48" long X 7 feet tall.

              Made up 2 3000k and 2 5000k strips and tested illumination.

              5000k are too white for the indirect lighting. 3000k looks best. These are replacing 2 X 2 Xenon 20 watt pucks.

              They will be automated and testing out a new dimmable 12VDC power supply with these which will be controlled by UPB light switch.

              Click image for larger version  Name:	Dimmable LED power supply.jpg Views:	1 Size:	36.8 KB ID:	1248095

              Looks to be around the same size as the other power supplies I have been using.

              I was using tiny wiring LED crimper clips on the last two LED tracks I made.

              Difficult (PITA) to use. I soldered on wires with the last 4 tested strips for bookshelf. Much easier to solder on leads than it is to utilize clips. I made a mistake with one strip cutting it a bit too short so lengthened it with another strip soldering the ends. Very easy to do this.

              Just scrap off the plastic coating, put a bit of flux and used a drop of solder for the connections.

              Here is a picture of the interstrip soldering and soldered on power leads. I used a little screw driver to scrape the power traces and a bit of flux and painters tape to hold the leads on to the traces. Worked great.

              Click image for larger version

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              Tested the 5000k SMD5050 LED strips last night noticed that they were too bright facing the ceiling from the top of the bookshelves. Today making 3000k strips and will use those.

              Last edited by Pete; September 19, 2018, 09:49 AM.
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                #52
                Pete, All looks very good, man you stay busy! How does that new power supply dim? Are you looking for automated dimming or local or both?
                Installed a MQTT broker last night and have been playing for hours now, don't have a spare RPI so I started with Mosquitto in windows, found a site with an unzipable folder that contains everything for windows, unzip, click, and it was up and running (didn't learn anything, but sure was easy) in under a minute. My Sonoff order should be here soon.

                John

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                  #53
                  Dunno yet about the new power supply...getting it tomorrow from Amazon. Reviews mostly positive that I have read. It is about the same size as the 1 AMP in wall box LED power supplies I am using. Not sure though it would fit inside of a box with an automated switch as here (Midwest) have all electric conduit, metal boxes and metal mudplates.

                  Probably paying too much for it at ~$10 but I like the 2 day shipping of Amazon Prime stuff.

                  Decided yesterday that the less dense warm 3000k top of the bookshelf / kitchen cabinets really do not need any dimming.

                  How does the Mosquitto broker run on Windows relating to resources?

                  I keep repurposing the old RPi's here and now making them multitasking.... attic RPi is a ZNet like device, SDR NOAA device and Node Red OWFS device...

                  IE: 1-Wire started with the Midon serial Temp0X stuff and xAP a few years back, then shifted over to using Node Red / OWFS Mosquitto and now shifting over to using a SonOff (well two of them). Just started to wire up new sensors to the SonOff in the basement...going to go to DHT22's for humidity sensors.

                  Click image for larger version

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                  Been testing the Sonoff GDO (door sensors, button and temperature sensor) Mosquitto to be as fast as the wired OmniPro security panel sensors via the Omni HS3 plugin here. I am impressed. Temperature is off and thinking now to remove these as they do not really work as well as a my old AAG DSB1820 temperature sensors such that will be removing the GDO sensor to remove integrated temperature sensor and add terminals to it for an external temperature sensor. Just a little soldering and super glue.

                  I like those new crytal glass looking WiFi wall switches with touch interfaces. It would be nice if you can update the firmware to using Mosquitto.

                  Here tested a Python Mosquitto broker that runs on my tiny OpenWRT tinker toy routers (micro travel routers) and it works well.
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                    #54
                    What wall switches do you like. The only one I found on search was no UL certified.

                    Comment


                      #55
                      Yeah noticed that they are selling in the EU and now make them for the US but no UL approved stuff. The designs all appear similiar and very modular. The depth of the switch is less than 1" with the terminals side mounted. The glass face plate is modular and they sell analog face plates or touch glass face plates. Thing too is that the switch has to function with or without automation. On the Google SonOff groups section there are users starting to take apart the Sonoff versions and looking for JTAG connections to upgrade the firmware.

                      The ones I really like are called Livolo. Very modular. They are starting to sell US styled switches. Not UL approved.

                      All of the wifi switches sold at the big box stores now are UL approved. That said prices are up there.


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                        #56
                        I was thinking about those touch panel switches and I wonder why you could not just use one of those Aeotec touch panels for their Zwave module. It is just a simple switch without the zwave attached, 3.3 volts, and switch leads, It seems it would simple to add to a Sonoff module, just a push button that needs 3 volts. 8 bucks shipped on Amazon, who's first.
                        Click image for larger version

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                        John

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                          #57
                          Kinda related, I'm guessing these switch plates are nothing more than something like this, no penny I 'm betting.
                          Click image for larger version

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                          Add voltage add it is a fancy momentary switch. You can also make your own touch device by wiring off the board, hence the penny. It works perfectly, I was gonna use some big upholstery nails to hide some switches. touch here, touch there, click.
                          Anyway seems like an easy add on to any Sonoff, Arduino, Nodemcu, ect.

                          John

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                            #58
                            John,

                            Dimming features would be nice. Switch functions would be:

                            1 - on and off analog style or touch style
                            2 - dimming analog style toggle or touch style

                            Seeing interchangable and modular face plates with decora style toggles or just glass touch on or off or dim functions.

                            I would be willing to tinker with your idea John building an arduino device to the back of the switch.

                            That said it is easier to reverse engineer a wifi switch and updated the firmware for use with Mosquitto.

                            I still here prefer to use metal boxes and conduit for home electricity than plastic boxes and romex (have had both). That is me though.

                            Old fashioned here. I like copper over PVC plumbing except for the sewer stuff.
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                              #59
                              BTW did not get my 120VAC 12VDC LED dimmer module yet. That said I received documentation today from the vendor relating to installation and UL approval of said device.

                              12V 12W Dimmable CV DC LED Driver ETL (UL) approved.

                              EV-12V-1000-12D.install.pdf

                              illuminous

                              Received LED driver yesterday. It is small enough to fit inside of an electrical box with a dimmer.

                              Cut the end off of an old lamp corn for 120VAC input and used 18 guage wire for 12VDC output. The LED ends are using 20 guage wire. Twisted and taped 12VDC wires. Today peeling the 3M stick to mount the LED strip directly on the top book shelves.

                              Tested dimming with an SA (old) UPB module which was used for the puck lighting.
                              Works fine here. Noticed you do not really see the dimming until you are at around 50%. I am able to dim it down fine to 5-10%.

                              Indirect lighting is more even than the puck lighting.

                              Note that the dimming driver is rated to 12 Watt which is 1 AMP at 12 VDC.

                              In the kitchen to date have used 1 AMP (12 Watt) and 1.25 AMPs (15 Watts)

                              For the bookshelves used two 40" strips of SMD2835 warm 3000-3500K X 80" which is less than 12 Watts ==> 16.4 feet 196" = 24 watts

                              Today leaving the bookshelf LEDs on at 100% to check on heat relating to driver. Note that the puck lamps were very hot.

                              Waiting on the update / automation / modification of RGB dimmer which should arrive soon.

                              Company used "Speedpak" for shipping which makes it go to New York customs where it sits before going to Chicago. The other USPS shipping now arrives directly to Chicago which speeds up delivery.

                              Personally here like using multiple small LED power supplies rather than one larger one under the cabinets. I like the dimming better at the 12VDC level versus the 120VAC level.

                              The controller does get a bit warm but not even close to the 120VAC pucks. Removed the pucks today and taped down the LED strip. Easy peasy. Used tiny wire nuts for the 12VDC wires. Indirect lighting looks good and more even than the 4 pucks up their.

                              I do not get the nice granularity in dimming that I get doing this via 12VDC. Noticed too that it's too bright for indirect lighting unless I dim it down to around 10-20% (no flickering which is good). The UPB lamp module is linked to the UPB wall switch module. I utilize a single or double tap and the links are attached to dim levels. So playing again here and switching out the 120VAC dimmer LED power module to a regular 120VAC to 1 AMP LED power supply with a set level pot and turning the UPB dimming lamp module to an on and off relay (its just a setting on the configuration). Over complicating this a bit.
                              Attached Files
                              Last edited by Pete; September 22, 2018, 05:57 AM.
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                                #60
                                Found a couple of el cheapo Ebay 120VAC WiFi wall switches to tinker with. These work on and off and dimming.

                                Leviton is starting to sell WiFi switches. These do not currently work with the OmniPro 2 panel. The OP2 panel is like a multiple protocal controller on steroids. Primitive using a serial bus for the Alarm and automation functions. I currently have X10, UPB, ZWave and Zigbee controllers connected to the panel.

                                I do not think it would be that difficult to add a wifi Leviton module connected serially to the OmniPro 2 panel.

                                All of the serial lighting configurations (X10, UPB, ZWave and Zigbee) are identical units that go on or off or dim.

                                I am currently using an OpenWrt micro router connected via network in the OP2 panel. I have tested the serial port on it to the panel and can talk fine to the panel. I can chat mosquitto with OpenWRT such that you could communication from OP2 panel serially or via network to the OpenWRT stuff.

                                Guessing that the "My Leviton" app is similiar to the "ewink" application.

                                Click image for larger version  Name:	levitondecorasmart.jpg Views:	1 Size:	69.6 KB ID:	1248873

                                The Ebay Wifi switches are cheap and using 120 VAC standard US switch decora configurations. They are both around $15 USD and glass.

                                Taking it apart to see about JTAGing it. Looks larger such that it might be easier to find the JTAG pins on it.

                                Click image for larger version  Name:	dimmer.jpg Views:	1 Size:	38.4 KB ID:	1248870

                                And while searching here on Ebay also found similiar to the above 120VAC to 12VAC dimmable power supplies for $2.50 with free shipping (versus around $10 on Amazon).

                                Click image for larger version  Name:	dimmableLED power supply.jpg Views:	1 Size:	145.4 KB ID:	1248871

                                Ideally a wall switch combo dimmer combo LED 12VDC power supply would be nicest.

                                IE: it would look like a regular 120 VAC wall switch with on and off and dimming on it except that it would have a 12VDC LED strip output on it and using mosquitto control.
                                Last edited by Pete; September 22, 2018, 09:18 AM.
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