Under kitchen cabinet LED lamps with mcsMQTT control

[Pete]

lj502 John,

Looking to rebuild my Sonoff SV RGB controller with your on / off dim switch.

I am assuming that the On / Off dim functions only work with the 12VDC output to the LED lamp eh?

Ordered a new Sonoff SV (2 now) and ordering the digital pots.

Did you make a schematic for your connectivity of the digital on / off dimming pot connectivity to the board?

Did you utilize Tasmota firmware tweaked for your endeavor?

[Pete]

Tested the SonOff SV via JTAG connection (3.3VDC). It is dead. Next endeavor will redo the POT set up. Hopefully the 2 AMP LED transformer keeps working.

Keeping the lights on 24/7 using the warm white strip with the 1.25 AMP PS. Easy to swap.

[Pete]

Pete, how many leds are in that 4 foot section?

I'm using those 12 watt Rayhoo drivers from Amazon on my Gas Pumps, each has 3 Pucks with 9 leds in each, so 27 in total on each 1 amp power supply, they have been solid so far.

They did work fine left on for 24/7 for a few weeks. That said never really felt the box temperature and did note yesterday with the box out of the metal 4X4 box that it gets hot after about 30 minutes. My configurations are very plug and play as I made up LED strips with covers of correct lengths with barrel connectors. They just snap in to place under the kitchen cabinets such that is is easy to replace and use an external power supply with all of them. The over the stove and side of stove LED lights are using SMD5050 and only on demand when cooking such that these are not on 24/7 cuz there is also the light built in to the over the stove microwave. Note too this is only with the white SMD5050 strips. The warm light SMD3528 do not make the Rahoo drivers even get warm. Maybe too it was the combo SonOff SV draw plus the draw of the SMD5050's which killed the power supply?

Taking the first one apart to see what makes it tick.

[Pete]

Yes did not count the number of LEDs in my strips.

SMD5050 discription is: LE 12V LED Light Strip, Flexible, 300 LEDs SMD 5050, 16.4ft Tape Light for Home, Kitchen, Party, Christmas and More, Daylight White

Which is 40 watts. 4 feet should be around 10 Watts.

LightingWill LED Strip Lights CRI90 SMD3528 300LEDs 16.4Ft/5M Ultra Warm White 2700K-3000K DC12V 24W 60LEDs/M 4.8W/M 8mm White PCB Flexible Ribbon Strip with Adhesive Tape Non-Waterproof H3528UWW300N

Which is around 6 watts for around 4 foot.

Both are not UL approved and get hot when used with the SMD5050. Cheap though and tiny. Whole purpose of endeavor though was to hide these transformers in the 4X4 metal boxes.



For one under the counter set it made up one SMD3528 and one SMD5050 tube with cover. Easy on an off except that WAF likes the SMD5050 best dimmed. Left these on 24 / 7 dimmed. Other side of kitchen made up a test ~ 20 + 20 + 36 inch multiple tube SMD5050 which is only turned on when needed. I made the tubes modular with barrel connectors.

The whole endeavor though was to hide the 120VAC to 12VDC power supplies inside of the 4X4 metal boxes behind the switches or and outlets. The 1 and 1.25 AMP LED power supplies are the smallest. When replacing the dead one with the 1.25 AMP LED power supply left them out. Test one gets hot with the SMD5050 and is only a tad warm with the SMD3528 (except that it is warm and not as bright as the white SMD5050).

Here I do not want to go with external box and not with dimmable 120VAC to 12VDC transformer. I am using a dimmable 120VAC to 12VDC for SMD3528's over some bookshelves and these are working fine except that the box is externally mounted.

Concurrently initially tested these LED strips with small plug in 12VDC 500mA and 1 AMP power supplies. The testing 1 AMP power supply never did get warm.

Best test though would be on a work bench and checking the AMP use with a VOM.

Ordered one of these to test and may switch LED test strips #2 to same one if it fits inside of the box.

COOLWEST 24W 12V Power Supply Driver Transformer for LED Flexible Strip Light and G4, MR16 Light Bulbs


Ultra-small size, Length 3.7 in/Width 1.8 in/Height 0.9 in




Leaving the boxes open with these hanging out right now (low on the WAF). Next size up which is 60 Watts is too large for the box.

The other option here is to put another small electrical box up and adjacent to the bottom of the kitchen cabinet which I do not want to do.

Testing the SonOff SV to see if it still works. Weird that it died (assumed). Getting another SonOff SV is not a big deal ...it was just soldering wires which was time consuming. I do recall having one cold solder joint which I fixed originally with it. Maybe it got disconnected if the board got warm.

[lj502]

It will depend on the strip you have some are 30 leds per meter up to 120 per meter, I just powered up an RGB 5050 section with 36 leds (30 per meter) right at 4 feet on white (full power) and its pulling 13 watts. I've read so much I gave up, what I do now is make up whatever section I need, RGB or single color and run it at full tilt on a larger than needed power supply and use my Killawatt or similar to see the maximum draw for each section I made and then pick a power supply.

Pete, how many leds are in that 4 foot section?
I'm using those 12 watt Rayhoo drivers from Amazon on my Gas Pumps, each has 3 Pucks with 9 leds in each, so 27 in total on each 1 amp power supply, they have been solid so far.

I just flashed 4 more led controllers tonight for some Christmas decos, was tossing the remotes into the old parts box and was surprised, I might have a problem, haha.


Oh well,

John

[Michael McSharry]

Do you know what the rating is for 4 ft SMD5050?

[Pete]

Received new 1.25 AMP mini DC power supply and hooked it up. Gets hot. Replacing it with a 2AMP power supply in the next couple of days. SonoffSV is dead and will need to be replaced. I guess that the 4 foot SMD5050 are too much of a draw for the 1 and 1.25 AMP power supplies.

[Pete]

Did an Amazon order today but forget the encoders. Decide to add to the order from an hour ago. Hopefully get the encoders by WED.

First LCD power supply failed a few days ago.

This was the 1 AMP one inside of the box with the SMD5050 strip. (~ 4 feet?). This strip was on 24/7 mostly dimmed and using the Sonoff SV and a manual POT for dimming. Ordered the 1.25 AMP and 2 AMP power supply. Not sure if the 2 AMP supply will fit inside of the 4X4 metal box in the wall.

Concurrent to this order ordered more temperature and combo temperature and humdity sensors and a couple of SonOff wifi basic devices.

[Pete]

Thanks John!!

Guessing that I will be able to install the encoder in the top of the H801 case for an all in one solution; eh?

Looks like it should work. It'll be easy enough to just utilize the pins I have installed.

[lj502]

Pete, I reflashed and used gpio 0 for the button and the Tx,Rx still on the encoder, it works perfectly and no problems using these gpio's. I double clicked, long click held it down for a minute and no issues, you just reconnect the 2 encoder wires back to programmer with ground and the encoder button is held while booting and you can reflash again if needed. I also made another firmware file adding IR support on gpio 4 along with the same encoder setting, it works fine with full IR control and on/off/dim at the knob. I'm very happy with this setup now. I'm gonna order at least 10 more to setup for wife's Christmas decos that I can convert, once the wiring is done for flashing you are really finished just plug and go.
Just got a delivery as I was typing this and it was more encoders and knobs, I already open and tested one and all is good, these have 20 detents a turn, and feel nice
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0...?ie=UTF8&psc=1
16 bucks for 7, with no knobs , no more than 1/4" of depth inside enclosure.


John

[lj502]

Almost forgot, I have a box of old Led controllers, the ones that are just IR remote, I have seen a few people using those connected to arduino or RPI's by cutting the leads to the mosfets and taking that back to a controller. What I was thinking was trying that with a nodemcu for kicks. It would need a bigger enclosure but I would have access to all those other gpio's on the board with ease. Too much time on my hands, haha.

Also I could compile a bin file for you to flash real quick if you want to see if it boots and runs, at least be able to test on/off button control. It has to be flashed as I can't get the build under 500 yet, lots to learn.

John

[lj502]

Pete, from what I read the 801 uses gpio 2 and 3 for serial and 0 for flash, you should be able to use those and be fine. I'm setting another up using gpio 0 as the button to test for a while. I was wondering if we could use some of the other gpio's on an 801 by connecting before the mosfets and removing or disabling some. Most times I don't see using 5 led channels and it shows 2 on board leds also, thats 9 gpio's brought out somewhere on that board. The boards with the big shield over the chip are easy to add to but these small ones I can't touch. Anyway it should work with what is available on the 801 with just the headers, nice and simple if it works.

John

[Pete]

Wow!!!! Very impressive John!

Well maybe switching to the MagicHome controller as there is no IR pins on the H801 controller but the RX, TX, GND and jumper should access same said pins that you are using. The H801 case might be big enough to fit the rotary encoder similiar to the Sonoff SV fashion.

[lj502]

Ok, I had just setup a new Raspberry running Picoreplayer and used a rotary encoder to handle to the volume and thought this would be perfect for these led controllers. Next step I searched Espurna and rotary encoder, seems there is a light out there that has a rotary encoder built in with a esp8266 running it, the Xiaomi Smart Desk Lamp. It has White leds and Warm white leds. Following the search I found he added support for it in the latest build, not sure if it was tested but it was there.
When you build your own firmware in Arduino you edit the arduino.h file and setup the build. The device you define in that file reads definitions from the hardware.h file (these are in the config folder under Espurna code) and you set your gpio's buttons, relays and such. Looking at the code for the Xiaomi lamp I just copied the parts I needed and setup my own device at the end of that file. I went back to the arduino.h file and defined the new device i created MH_ENCODER with my settings.



Pete you may like this part, in the code for the Xiaomi lamp the rotary encoder sets the brightness of all channels, when the knob is held pressed and turned it varies the first 2 channels opposite each other, one up the other down, kinda nice for getting right shade of white I guess but not so good for RGB. Also it has code for a hidden button that resets device, I just commented button 2 out all was good there.
The other thing was, I did not install the functions for serial comms to use gpio's 1 and 3, I learned that when the device is booted with gpio 0 grounded the Rx And Tx functions are activated and it flashes the same. I need to check the exact setting I used and post them, it took a few times to get the build I wanted.
I'm not a programmer but I can cut and paste with the best of them, basically lots of trial and error. There are other settings in the encoder.ini file but I have not messed with that yet.

I found that ESPeasy supports rotary encoders too so I flashed that on a Nodemcu and was connected to HS3 in minutes with MQTT, it setup a device that read 0-100 from the encoder with very fast updating to HS3. I don't think ESPeasy works on these ledcontrollers but with a Nodemcu you can do alot with ESPeasy.

Learning alot here! If I left something out or there something more, please post it.

John

[lj502]

Sorry for the delay, I received some new controllers the next morning and I wanted to do it again before I posted. Well of coarse it could not go that easy, the new controllers are different but it worked out better really.


The new controller (left) has only the chip, and well I can't solder to that little thing. I decided to try another route after reading tons on Github and use the Rx and Tx pads and the IR pad.



This makes for a simple setup with lots of devices as they all use gpio 1,3 for flashing and most have access to another gpio (I did use gpio 0 for the button and all was fine, I think that might need more tweaking in the Espurna code as I think it will reset the board if held long enough, gotta check on that)



I went ahead and brought all four gpio's (0,1,3,4) out of the controller along with ground, if I need to reflash it will be simple and I might be able to use the 0 pin also.



This controller came with the IR receiver so it was simple again to snap it together with a hole for the wiring already there. The only mod I needed was to clip a tiny corner off the interior plastic board locators, the ground wire was holding the board at an angle, again really simple.




This is the rotary encoder I used, already had for a Squeezebox project, has five pins, 3 on side you can see here and two opposite for the push button, the 3 pins are simple again center to ground and 2 others to a gpio each, it all gets set up in the Espurna code. The hardware was really simple




I used a couple servo extenders from the parts box and just removed the black wire from the cable with gpio 0 and 4, the other has ground and the 2 gpio's for the encoder.




I soldered the short ends from the servo cables to the encoder, added a little shrink tubing it was done. If I need to extend it I have those extensions in different lengths so again simple. The aluminum knob came from Amazon also, I ordered a few more different ones, I'll post those when they get here.

I'll post the software side shortly.

John