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Under kitchen cabinet LED lamps with mcsMQTT control

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  • Under kitchen cabinet LED lamps with mcsMQTT control

    Here have never updated the under the counter lighting to LED lamps.

    Purchased a few for testing and tested them in the garage and basement workbench years ago leaving them on 24/7 for a few years.

    New endeavor with some LED lamps that I purchased a few years ago.

    Hardware list:

    1 - 10 modules / .72 watts each / .06 Amps X 10 = .6 amps Reviewer tested 5 modules with a draw of 105 mA - testing with a .5 Amp regulated PS.

    LG Innotek LED modules.

    Click image for larger version  Name:	LED.jpg Views:	1 Size:	62.3 KB ID:	1241594

    Operates on 12Vdc. Dimmable. Covered lens protects against humidity and sun damage. 50,000 hour, long-life LEDs. 3M® double-stick tape on back of each module for attachment to clean, flat surface. Also has a hole for screw mounting. Specifications: 12Vdc, 0.72W each module.

    Test mounted the modules using tiny screws but not double stick tape yet. Mounting the LED lamps on the outer edge of the cabinet overhang.

    Hiding the 120 VAC to 12VDC LED power supply and Sonoff automation module inside of the 4 X 4 metal switch box with currently one switch inside of it.

    Click image for larger version  Name:	Innotek.jpg Views:	1 Size:	158.6 KB ID:	1241596

    2 - 4 X 4 metal in wall switch box
    3 - small 120 VAC transformer plus Sonoff mounted inside of box.

    Purchased one of these on Amazon for around $7. They are about $2 on Ebay with free delivery. This is a 1 AMP tiny LED driver.

    Purchased this just for testing purposes and to fit it inside of wall box with switch.

    Click image for larger version  Name:	LEDTransformer.jpg Views:	1 Size:	52.8 KB ID:	1241629

    Thinking one of these would fit inside of the metal switch box and connected to the above purchased transformer. (~ $10 on Amazon and around $4 on Ebay). Too bad that a dimming module wasn't made. I did find a tiny 12VDC dimming module that will fit nicely next to the LED lighting. Ordered this one Amazon Prime today.

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    4 - Diffuser - mounting LEDs in channel with diffuser LED Aluminum Channel System With Cover, End Caps and Mounting Clips
    5 - barrel connectors
    6- optionally using LED light strips. Will be building two configurations. Might utilize second one on top of the kitchen cabinets (2 switches).
    The old over the counter lighting was sort of used as night lights in the kitchen. (along with over the stove LED lamps). I am over doing this a bit now using added options. The diffuser / LED strip mounting gives it a nice finished look.

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    Last edited by Pete; August 18th, 2018, 09:22 AM.
    - Pete

    Auto mator
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    X10, UPB, Zigbee, ZWave and Wifi MQTT automation.

  • #2
    Why include mqtt in the control chain and not control it directly?
    My philosofy is to keep things as simple as possible. The more parts in the control chain the more likely something will break it.

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    • #3
      It will have direct control. Initially on and off will just be a 120vac style toggle switch on the 12VDC side with the tiny 120VAC to 12VDC transformer. The Sonoff board and add is just to tinker with. Current under the counter incandescent lighting is on 24/7 - more like a night light in the kitchen. The new LED lamps will probably be left on most of the time.

      Tonight ordered channels and diffusers so taking what I installed down next week and putting the LED lamps on the channels.
      - Pete

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      • #4
        Agree about having the fewest moving parts for reliable operation. One cannot just count number of pieces to assess reliability. A complex component with many ways to break likely will not provide the most reliable operation.

        when looking at IOT devices the Wi-Fi connection is typically the weak point so to maximize reliability a means is needed to assure delivery of communications. A robust quality of service manager is not something you want to embed at the application layer for each type of device being controlled. The MQTT broker serves this roll. With such widespread use it has matured to be a very reliable component.

        There is no single best approach, but one needs to assess the system overall to understand the appropriate approach.

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        • #5
          This is more of an exercise in using the small LED power supply inside of the electrical box and hiding the wires first. Intially it will be using a standard 120VAC switch to power on and off the LED lamps.

          There is more in that there is only two 120VAC wires for the current overhead light(s) in the switchbox and I have to pull a neutral wire from the light box to the switch box for the LED transformer to work. It is a short run and all metal conduit.

          You cannot really see the LED lamps unless you look underneath and next to the wood overhang of the kitchen cabinets. That said I didn't like the brightness such that I ordered an aluminum track with a built in diffuser last night and will probably use 5 sets of LEDs instead of 10. Initially was going to try a glass touch 12VDC switch and have also now seen a combo 12VDC dimmer and LED power supply switch...but these are over $100.

          - Pete

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          • #6
            Got the Sonoff / ITead

            SV Safe Voltage WiFi Wireless Switch Smart Home Module Support Secondary Development board today from Amazon.

            Click image for larger version  Name:	Sonoff-1.jpg Views:	1 Size:	118.1 KB ID:	1242040

            1 - Soldering on red / black wires for 12VDC power supply.
            2 - Testing it to see if it works using EWeLink. Registered it and updated firmware. Very slow. Original firmware was 1.6 and updated was 1.8.
            3 - soldering on right angle pins for JTAG uploading.
            4 - upgraded firmware via JTAG command line.
            5 - Installation of LED power supply.

            Last edited by Pete; August 19th, 2018, 09:53 AM.
            - Pete

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            • #7
              For serial upload I now just insert pins from usb-serial into the holes and lean them to assure contact. If I am going to use the GPIO in the same pin block as tx and rx then I will solder header block with all pins.

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              • #8
                Thank you Michael.

                Initially using a 4 pin right angle thing bending the pins and taping the board down to keep pressure on it. Couldn't get a long enough connection so soldered the pins on. Easy to remove anyhow. It will be a single function board. Largest piece to it is the relay. I like that the supply voltage to the board is 5VDC up. Documentation is scarce on the board.
                - Pete

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                • #9
                  For testing here might put a DS18B20 temperature sensor inside of the mini LED power supply. Noticed the 400mW testing LED PS gets a bit warm.

                  Today pulling a neutral wire (white) from the overhead lamp to the switchbox as this one only had two wires inside of it. Short run.

                  Stuck gave the kitchen back to wife. Going to need to use a wire puller to get wires to box.

                  Did get LED 1AMP power supply and a cheap tesing 12VDC dimmer. No flicker on LEDs when dimming. Power supply should fit inside of 4X4 electrical box with no issues. Next endeavor is to mount the LEDs on the aluminum strip with the diffuser.

                  Here is the test connection picture showing size of LED power supply.

                  Click image for larger version

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                  Last edited by Pete; August 19th, 2018, 04:11 PM.
                  - Pete

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                  • #10
                    Am I completely off subject? I use the Qubino RGBW dimmer but only have the white color connected. Time on/ff and brighness is solely controlled by HS events. Tiny wires are easy to hide. Tomatoes come with the territory this time of year.

                    https://www.thesmartesthouse.com/col...module-zmnhwd3

                    Click image for larger version

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                    Comment


                    • #11
                      Thank you Fernando. You are not off subject.

                      This is my first attempt doing the under the kitchen cabinets LED lamps. I have other kitchen cabinets mounted in the garage and basement and I have tested both 120VAC and 12VDC LED lamps there over the last few years.

                      With the kitchen endeavor hiding 1 AMP tiny LED transformer and all low voltage wires and LED lamps.

                      This would be first endeavor using a Mosquitto / Ardunio low voltage switch for LED lamps. (main lighting here is using UPB power line switches, aux lighting using X10, ZWave and Zigbee).

                      Typically have kept the under the kitchen cabinet lights on 24/7 and lately been shutting them off at night for my parrot. She is old now (41) and uses a little blanket to go to sleep and block the light in the kitchen. I do not know how she wraps the blanket around her cocoon like while sitting on a perch.

                      Here is a picture of Kika the parrot. She is from Brazil and an Amazon Blue Crown. I got her when she was about a month or so old in the 1970's. She was the size of my thumb and I fed her with a nose dropper for a while.

                      Click image for larger version  Name:	kika.jpg Views:	1 Size:	119.0 KB ID:	1242279

                      So right now test LED mounted lamps look like this:

                      Click image for larger version  Name:	AluminumTrack.jpg Views:	1 Size:	76.9 KB ID:	1242262

                      Yeah today's endeavor was running one black (hot) and one white (neutral) from the ceiling light box to the switch box to power the LED transformer. There was only two wires in the box and conduit for the switch. Tried one wire at a time and that did not work such that I used one of the two switch wires to pull the two wires box to box. Took five minutes. Then I pulled back the switch wire. Two wires cuz the light box is connected to a ceiling fan. So now have an orange, blue, white and black wire. Black is hot and orange and blue will switch on overhead fan and optional lamp. The other white and blue wires are the 12VDC wires connected to the small LED transformer in the box. .3 switches going in to 4 X 4 box with single duplex mudplate. Might remove mudplate and replace it with a double duplex mudplate. This was probably most difficult piece.

                      Click image for larger version  Name:	newwires.jpg Views:	1 Size:	66.0 KB ID:	1242263

                      Getting the aluminum tracks with diffusers today. With this endeavor will mount the LED strips to the aluminum and use a barrel connector for the 12VDC power.

                      Probably will go with a micro 12VDC dimmer (and on and off switch) and use a Sonoff board (tiny) to turn on and off LED lamps.

                      I have a tiny plastic box (1/2" high) for housing the SonOff board. Very simple set up will be 12VDC in and 12VDC switched out and a tiny push button mounted on the plastic box and probably a small 12VDC dimmer mounted in the box. Very innocuous configuration that you will not even notice much. Fit the small LED power supply inside of the metal wall switch box with no issues.

                      Wiring will be:

                      Wall mounted12VDC coaxial plug ==> under the cabinet 12VDC Sonoff SV in small project box (testing) ==> small inline dimmer ==>12VDC coaxial plug ==> LED lamps.

                      The modular Sonoff SV can be unplugged and bypassed at any time.

                      Test connected the Sonoff SV in line with the 12VDC power. Works great. Might add a temperature sensor to it. Testing it and the LED power supply noticed that the two do not even get warm to the touch.

                      Click image for larger version

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                      Last edited by Pete; August 20th, 2018, 01:46 PM.
                      - Pete

                      Auto mator
                      Homeseer 3 Pro - 3.0.0.534 (Linux) - Ubuntu 18.04/W7e 64 bit Intel Haswell CPU - Mono 6.00
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                      X10, UPB, Zigbee, ZWave and Wifi MQTT automation.

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                      • #12
                        Current testing Sonoff-Tasmota 6.1.1 by Theo Arends firmware on the Sonoff SV.

                        Has a built in timer and scheduler such that you can use this and or mcsMQTT plugin.

                        Click image for larger version

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                        - Pete

                        Auto mator
                        Homeseer 3 Pro - 3.0.0.534 (Linux) - Ubuntu 18.04/W7e 64 bit Intel Haswell CPU - Mono 6.00
                        Homeseer Zee2 (Lite) - 3.0.0.534 (Linux) - Ubuntu 18.04/W7e - CherryTrail x5-Z8350 BeeLink 4Gb BT3 Pro - Mono 6.00

                        X10, UPB, Zigbee, ZWave and Wifi MQTT automation.

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                        • #13
                          Using the latest Tasmota firmware is preferred if you do not need the special logic added for door, irrigation, or water done in mcsTasmota.

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                          • #14
                            Yeah adjusted time, longitude and latitude but my sunrise and sunset times are way off with Sonoff-Tasmota 6.1.1 firmware.

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                            Took apart one of those el cheap 12VDC dimmers to put in the small project box with the Sonoff SV. There is not much to the dimmer. Unsoldered terminals and connected wires. 12VDC dimmer circuit board is 1.5" X 1". Sonoff SV is 2.5" X 1.25". Pot will be mounted either on the side of the case or on the lid of the case.

                            So in the little project box will be the SonOff SV plus dimmer combo off on switch.

                            12VDC ==> [ Sonoff SV ==> 12VDC dimmer / on / off switch] ==> LED lamps.

                            Click image for larger version  Name:	12VDCDimmer.jpg Views:	1 Size:	165.8 KB ID:	1242363

                            Finished wiring up combo 12VDC Sonoff SV to 12VDC 12VDC dimmer/switch. It'll be a tight fit in the small project case.
                            Left terminals are 12VDC from LED power supply and right terminals are 12VDC dimmable output.



                            Click image for larger version  Name:	comboswitch.jpg Views:	1 Size:	143.4 KB ID:	1242398
                            Last edited by Pete; August 20th, 2018, 08:02 PM.
                            - Pete

                            Auto mator
                            Homeseer 3 Pro - 3.0.0.534 (Linux) - Ubuntu 18.04/W7e 64 bit Intel Haswell CPU - Mono 6.00
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                            X10, UPB, Zigbee, ZWave and Wifi MQTT automation.

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                            • #15
                              Well Pete. This may be an excercise for you but i am baffled with the amount of technology you throw at it to do a simple task.

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