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    Help with first time build for under counter LED strip

    I am new to LED lighting but have a background in computers and electronic repairs. We are remodeling our kitchen and as a part of that I had our contractor put some 18 gauge extension wire behind the walls and under our cabinets for me to run some LED light strips. I have been doing some research and want to build a strip that is individually addressable and I can control it via MQTT using Michael's plugin. I have created a list on Amazon of items that I think I need to purchase and would like if someone can critique it for me to see if I am missing anything. I do realize that I can get the stuff cheaper from Aliexpress or other China based sellers but I would like to get these in as soon as I can to get started.

    I will be running about 15Ft of strip under the cabinets to begin with. If all goes well, I plan to do the same for under the counter and also under the island.

    Thanks in advance. Here is my list: https://www.amazon.com/hz/wishlist/l...?ref_=wl_share

    LED Kitchen Lighting


    KeeYees 3pcs ESP8266 NodeMCU CP2102 ESP-12E WiFi Internet Development Board Wireless Module Compatible with Arduino IDE
    Offered by KeeYees-US.
    $13.98 1 0
    ElectroCookie Prototype PCB Solderable Breadboard for Arduino and DIY Electronics Projects, Gold-Plated (5 Pack + 1 Mini Board, Matte Black)
    Offered by ElectroCookie Store.
    $11.99 1 0
    HiLetgo 10pcs 4 Channels IIC I2C Logic Level Converter Bi-Directional 3.3V-5V Shifter Module for Arduino
    Offered by HiLetgo.
    $7.49 1 0
    5V Power Supply, CHINLY 40A Power Supply Universal Regulated Switching Power Supply Transformer for WS2811 2801 WS2812B WS2813 APA102 LED Strip Light, CCTV, Radio, Computer Project (DC5V 40A 200W)
    Offered by CHINLY.
    $20.99 1 0
    HKBAYI 50Pair / 50sets 3 pin JST SM Male Female plug LED Connector Cable For WS2812B WS2812 WS2811 LED Strip Lamp with 15cm Long Wire
    Offered by HKBAYI.
    $10.99 1 0
    BTF-LIGHTING RGBW RGBCW White SK6812 (Similar WS2812B) 16.4ft 5m 60leds/Pixels/m Individually Addressable Flexible 4 Color in 1 LED Dream Color LED Strip Waterproof IP65 DC5V
    Offered by BTF-Lighting.

    #2

    ​​I would suggest these type of controllers:

    https://a.aliexpress.com/_d7e4bRB
    ​​​​​​
    https://www.amazon.com/GIDERWEL-Wire...637314&sr=8-17

    They are Tasmota flashable. RGBWW.
    easily configurable. McsMqtt compatible.

    Only thing else you'll need is the power supply and appropriate led strips.

    been using them for a while. They work flawlessly.
    ​​​​

    Comment


      #3
      Thanks 123qweasd but that controller is 12V and I am going to use the SK6812 addressable and they are 5V based. The PS that I have is a 5V 40A as I read that each 15Ft strip of SK6812 will draw about 10A at full brightness.

      Comment


        #4
        Here it was initially installing the LEDs in an aluminum strip with a diffuser. I used small pieces of paint sticks cut, painted with barrel connectors on the wall under the kitchen cabinet for power use. Modded a Magic Home controller here with Espurna and a digital dimmer on off pot. Only used white for my LED lamps here. Purchased everything on Amazon.
        - Pete

        Auto mator
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          #5
          Your list looks as if it will get the job done. 40 Amps is more than you should need, but who knows what may be in the future for 5V in your kitchen. The level converters likely are optional, but it is safe to use them and have peace of mind. You are going to be using 5V, 3.3V, Gnd, and one GPIO pin on goth the NodeMCU and level converter. You will also have the level shifted 5V output connected to the LED strip data line. The LED will also have 5V and Gnd.

          A project case may also be a good idea for protection of the electronics. A portable soap bar container is another easy and cheap way if you do not have a 3D printer. I have found the adhesive on the strips to be marginal so other forms of attachment may be considered. Stronger glue is another possibility. Consider maintenance in you install should a LED strip fail in the future.

          I assume you will be flashing WLED in the NodMCU. I have only used RGB with my Neopixels, but assume WLED will have the smarts to properly setup and control the white channel.

          Comment


            #6
            So after a little more reading, I changed direction and went with 12V. This is due to the length I will need (~15ft) and the fact that I will have extension cables between some of the cabinets. I ordered the following controller and just wondering if the controller will work with this plugin: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0...?ie=UTF8&psc=1

            Thanks,
            Andy

            Comment


              #7
              It will not work directly. You can open it up and flash Tasmota or ESPurna firmware for compatibility. This requires a FTDI-like USB/UART to do the flashing such as https://www.amazon.com/HiLetgo-FT232...xpY2s9dHJ1ZQ== I did a different model that has just RGB channels and required solder of tack wires.

              What I recommend is the Shelly RGBW2. Wallmart.com had the best price that was $26 when I got it, but now is out of stock. Same for Amazon being out of stock.

              Comment


                #8
                Fyi, if you go the Tasmota route, have a look at the database of compatible devices (over 1200) to ensure compatibility.

                https://templates.blakadder.com/

                I went with 12v for similar reasons (long outdoor runs + multiple lights) so the controller i recommended is tested. Shelly as well.

                Comment


                  #9
                  Thanks. I did see that Tasmota supports a lot of devices and seems to be pretty popular. I will be try it out.

                  Comment


                    #10
                    Here utilize three separate power supplies inside of the electrical boxes (behind switches) and 3 modded Magic Home Controllers.
                    - Pete

                    Auto mator
                    Homeseer 3 Pro - 3.0.0.548 (Linux) - Ubuntu 18.04/W7e 64 bit Intel Haswell CPU 16Gb- Mono 6.12.X
                    Homeseer Zee2 (Lite) - 3.0.0.548 (Linux) - Ubuntu 18.04/W7e - CherryTrail x5-Z8350 BeeLink 4Gb BT3 Pro - Mono 6.12.X
                    HS4 Pro - V4.1.7.0 - Ubuntu 18.04/VB W7e 64 bit Intel Kaby Lake CPU - 32Gb - Mono 6.12.x
                    HS4 Lite -

                    X10, UPB, Zigbee, ZWave and Wifi MQTT automation. OmniPro 2, Russound zoned audio, Smartthings hub, Hubitat Hub, and Home Assistant

                    Comment


                      #11
                      Thanks to all for the suggestions. I have ordered some 12V leds and power supplies and will see how everything works. I can't seem to find much information on flashing the SP501E but I have also ordered some D1 Wemo Mini Node MCU boards as well.

                      Comment


                        #12
                        The D1 Mini is easy to flash, but it does not have the FET's installed to drive a 12 strip. The D1 Mini would work well for the 5V Neopixel style strips.

                        For the SP501E you need to open the case, identify the GPIO 0, GPIO 1, GPIO 3, 3.3v and Gnd pins. If you are lucky they are labeled on the circuit card. Not quite so lucky then there will be pads that you need to trace from the ESP pin. If unlucky then they are not routed to circuit card which would be very unlikely since they are needed for factory flashing of the product.

                        Comment


                          #13
                          Thanks Michael McSharry I will check the SP501E when it arrives. As for the D1 mini, I was going to use a buck converter to step down the 12V to 5V to drive it. Just want to see what it can do vs using something like the SP501E.

                          Comment


                            #14
                            The problem is not only the power for the D1 Mini, but also the drive capability of the D1 Mini discrete outputs. Four FETs are needed to handle the amperage (and voltage) used by the 12V LEDs.

                            Comment


                              #15
                              Don't forget to add some fuses. The picture below is a Wemos D1 Mini and a DHT22 temperature and humidity sensor. It was running off a 5V 2A wall wart phone charger. I accidentally plugged in the DHT22 backwards ehich created a short and walked away. It sat like that for hours. Melted the insulation on the wire, melted the breadboard and the DHT22. Even a seemingly low voltage can cause problems if you are pulling enough amps. The 5V supply was plugged in the the USB on the D1 Mini.


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