Gosund WiFi dimmer switches on sale on Amazon

[Pete]

Yes. Last time I tried the OTA it was hit or miss and that is why I went back to the JTAG methodology.

It took all of 15 minutes to update via OTA and then the firmware updates.

[Pete]

Michael McSharry

Not related to OP.

Question: I am still using the combo GDO with an original Sonoff basic module. It works fine. I have an Alexa direct connect issue with it.

When configured with Hue emulation and can see it with Alexa running on Windows 10 or if I do a scan of devices with the Echo show it opens the garage door.

I then shut the garage door toggle on the web gui and it stays shut. It's like the hue device discovery with Alexa toggles it on and opens the garage door.

I know you custom wrote that Tasmota firmware for the GDO. Would it be beneficial to utilize current Tasmota firmware and would it work with the two sensors, temperature sensor and toggle switch?

Just did a scan of devices and see this on the Alexa app.

1 - Garage Door 1 Royal Philips Electronics smart device

2 - Garage Door 1 Hue Light

[guysmiley]

This is my kind of thread... thorough and with great photos.

I am new to the home automation game, and tasmota in particular but am familiar with programming/flashing.

We have an SW2 dimmer (bought Jan 2020) and when we tried to flash OTA we got an error (which I can't remember at the moment but has to do with a handshake that can't be established because the smart ppk key doesn't match... there's a thread on it over at tasmota about it and a whole bunch of devices).

My question:
If I hardwire the chip as per your instructions, and flash it directly using a USB-Serial adapter, is it likely to work (it's currently sitting in a wall socket in one of my kid's bedrooms) or is it possible this smart ppk bug will prevent me from flashing it either way...? Sorry I can't remember the specific bug at the moment... I realize what a pain I'm being

[Pete]

and flash it directly using a USB-Serial adapter, is it likely to work?

Yes.

[Michael McSharry]

Another thing to be aware is that some companies are not using ESP8266 an later production of their products. To flash with Tasmota you need to have a ESP8266 or ESP32 micro. Same is true of other 3rd party firmware.

You will not know what you have until you crack open the case and look.

[guysmiley]

Thanks for the feedback. I'm looking around for JTAG methods and not seeing any for a rookie. Can someone point me in the right direction? I'm simply reading off the Tasmota website, but they don't mention JTAG at any point. https://tasmota.github.io/docs/Getting-Started/

[Michael McSharry]

You will find they describe the device as a UART or FTDI Adapter. What is important is that it is a 3.3 V level on the RX and TX pins (and VCC if you get power from the Adapter). The mcsMQTT manual can be searched and should find a link for what I have used. I have tried many and they all have worked.

[guysmiley]

When I connect my 'wifi device' (i.e. iphone) to the vtrust network on the pi, I see a login prompt but when I click 'Login' there's no opportunity to type in a password. Is this normal?

[Guest]

Yes. Just wait a bit and your phone should connect ( and ask if you want to connect without internet - A: yes ). if any issues, forget network and connect again. Ensure you don't have any app/ feature enabled that automatically switches networks.

[Pete]

When I connect my 'wifi device' (i.e. iphone) to the vtrust network on the pi, I see a login prompt but when I click 'Login' there's no opportunity to type in a password. Is this normal?

You do not have to log in to the vtrust network.

You just need to see the browser prompt as you switch your phone WiFi to the vtrust network SSID.

Have a read here ==>

Tuya-Convert

[guysmiley]

Pardon more rookie questions... We wired an FTDI adapter (this one) so that:
- GND to GND
- VCC to 3.3V
- RX to TX
- TX to RX (we also tried RX to RX and TX to TX with no success but saw that we're to reverse these in another video)
- GPIO to GND
and we're not seeing a connection between the PC and the ESP8266. As per Pete, we detached the ZIF cable(s). We ran EPTool.py and got no connection on COM3 (it didn't originally see the adapter, had to install the VCP drivers).

Is there something we're missing here that seems obvious?

[Pete]

You have to hold GPIO 0 to ground when first powering it up. Then you can disconnect it.

Tuya-Convert worked fine with these switches.

[guysmiley]

Yeah, we got a pair of these dimmers in December that wouldn't shake hands (bad sslpsk) OTA. Hoping we just have a bad wiring connection, but so far the dimmers just won't show up in esptool.py.

[Pete]

So holding GPIO 0 to ground doesn't work?

Check the 3.3VDC output with a VOM. DigiBlur saw that if the device doesn't do exactly 3.3VDC then it will not work.

[guysmiley]

Thanks again for the guidance...

So, we were finally able to flash the ESP8266EX... flashed minimal first then scripting. Connected over wifi, successfully joined the network uploaded the template and script from tasmota's repository.

Here's the thing... We can connect to it's IP and see the OFF/ON value change on screen as we manually click the switch on the dimmer, however, the lights don't come on!!! We did unfortunately cut the small ribbon at the top of the device and foolishly had the USB in 5V mode (believe me, tears were shed) before flashing, but since the flashing process worked and we've successfully connected we figured we were in the clear...

Any idea why the lights don't turn on?

EDIT: I compared the guts of this Gosund SW2 Dimmer to the pics on page 1 of this thread and while they're very similar, there are clear differences (the one large chip on the PCB with the TX/RX (etc) pads has been replaced by 2 smaller chips (hence new firmware?). Is this maybe why the lights won't turn on... a new template is required?