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X-10 Wall Switch WS467 mod for use with LED bulbs

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  • Guest's Avatar
    Guest replied
    So I have the x10 467 switches and would like to do LED's without having to retrofit everything. I don't have neutral wires at my wall switches so retrofitting to switches that use them is not an option. If I put one LED and one Halogen in a multibulb circuit then I can dim to off. So I have read about the problems with triac dimmers and there need to be powered by leakage current which worked on Incandescent s and Halogen Bulbs. It seems the only way I can go to LED's on everything is to provide a return at the light socket or the wiring next to it by adding a resistor to provide enough power to the X10 dimmers. Has anybody used this method and what value resistor did they use to do it? I saw one company selling a 10k resistor for about 19 bucks and another person mentioning a 220k quarter watt to solve the problem. Is there any company that provides a load in bulb adapter to solve this problem. Also read some stuff about Cirrus Logic having a Led chip that solves the dimming to zero problem but apparently nobody makes a Led Bulb that uses it.

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  • mfisher
    replied
    Thanks Al, I totally forgot that X10 had been resurrected and are selling the CM15a. Post corrected.

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  • sparkman
    replied
    Originally posted by mfisher View Post
    In case you are not aware, most of these interfaces are no longer manufactured and the companies that made them are no longer in existence, specifically the CM11a, CM15a and the Ti103.
    As an FYI, the CM15a is still being made and sold by X10 (https://www.x10.com/x10-home-automat...5a-module.html and https://www.thehomeautomationstore.c...5a-module.html). X-10 is still in business (with new owners).

    Cheers
    Al

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  • mfisher
    replied
    There are a few choices for X10 interfaces: CM11a, Ti-103, CM15a, XTB-232 and a couple of others. I personally use the Ti-103 and it has served me very well for many years. I would not recommend the CM15a as there are issues with the plugin and it does not support the X10 preset-dim and extended commands. If I were in the market for another interface I'd purchase a Ti-103 or a XTB-232.

    In case you are not aware, most of these interfaces are no longer manufactured and the companies that made them are no longer in existence, specifically the CM11a and the Ti103. The XTB devices however, are still manufactured and the gentleman who makes them is still in business.

    If you are interested in picking up a Ti103, I know that Kbevo has a couple he might part with.
    Last edited by mfisher; March 18, 2017, 09:29 AM.

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  • jimbell
    replied
    Originally posted by nychawk View Post
    Can you provide insight into how you integrated X10 with your homeseer?
    I've got far too many x10 switches to replace at the moment.

    Thank you
    My installation is pretty vanilla. I use the windows version of Homeseer 3. The interface to x-10 is a x10 cm11a controller. This is the older serial version. There is a newer USB version which is the CM15A. Looking at the homeseer website, this device looks like it is supported by Homeseer. Someone else should verify this since I don't have one here to test. I do use the W800 device for my wireless x10 devices. I found that the x10 transceivers did not work very well for me. What system are you using? (Window, Linux).
    Home this helps.

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  • nychawk
    replied
    Can you provide insight into how you integrated X10 with your homeseer?
    I've got far too many x10 switches to replace at the moment.

    Thank you

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  • jimbell
    replied
    No photos

    Originally posted by nychawk View Post
    Although described in your post, could you please send me your photos?

    Slightly off-topic, what are folks here doing to integrate/interface the HomeTroller Zee S2 to allow control of X10 switches? Any help greatly appreciated!
    Since the response was pretty low, I never did take any photos. It is possible that some of the other did make photos of their handiwork. I don't think that I will be doing any more of these mods in the future. I am slowly replacing the x-10 wall switches with Z-wave switches. I am using the Zooz switches because of their relatively low price.

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  • nychawk
    replied
    Although described in your post, could you please send me your photos?

    Slightly off-topic, what are folks here doing to integrate/interface the HomeTroller Zee S2 to allow control of X10 switches? Any help greatly appreciated!

    Leave a comment:


  • Dave W
    replied
    FWIW Although slightly different procedure, the wall switch mod is shown schematically in this mod http://www.laureanno.com/ .

    Having an older home, most of my wall switch boxes do not have a neutral, but a simple workaround where space in the fixture allows it, is to put a four or seven watt nightlight in parallel with the LED bulb.
    I use a "two outlet socket adaptor" and plug the nightlight in one of the sockets. The nightlight dribbles enough power back to the X10 switch that it thinks it is looking at an incandescent bulb.

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  • jimbell
    replied
    Mod instructions

    I have had around 1/2 dozen or so inquires about this mod. Since the response was so low, I sent the instructions out one at a time. However, upon reflection, that seems to be a pretty inefficient way to do it. So here are the instructions......

    After disassembling the module, only 3 steps are needed. Desolder the end of the choke that is close to the blue capacitor. In the hole that is now empty, solder in a new wire that is around the same length as the 2 others. The wire size is not critical. I am using 18 stranded.
    This wire becomes the neutral.
    *
    Cut the blue wire near the circuit board. Solder the cut-off blue wire to the end of the choke that you had disconnected before. This connection should be insulated. I use heat shrink tubing. That is it. The little pieces of the front switch will probably get lost, but this does not matter. This mod by-passes the switch.

    The blue wire must be connected to the load. In the original switch, it did not matter which wire was connected to the load, but now it does. So black to hot, blue to load, and new wire to neutral.

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  • artart88
    replied
    Please send me the info also. Thanks.

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  • jimbell
    replied
    Sent info

    Originally posted by jgveill View Post
    I'd like to receive the link. I searched for such mod, but most links are dead and I could not find anything.

    Thanks J Guy
    Guy,

    Sent the info via a PM.

    Leave a comment:


  • jgveill
    replied
    Originally posted by jimbell View Post
    The mod for adding a neutral wire is pretty easy but requires disassembly of the module and some soldering. If there is interest in this mod let me know and I will post instructions as well as pictures.
    I'd like to receive the link. I searched for such mod, but most links are dead and I could not find anything.

    Thanks J Guy

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  • jryan15
    replied
    Ah, nothing fancy. I've had a couple russound ca6.4's for a long time and never made it super functional. A few years ago picked up a simple bluetooth adapter which was great for streaming pandora through the house, but keeping the active phone within bluetooth range was a real pain.

    Basically the chromecast works like a bluetooth adapter except uses wifi. Now I can play music on my phone, stream it to my chromecast and list over the whole house audio. It also opened the door for my kids to connect to the chrome cast from their bedrooms upstairs and listen to the speakers in their room. My youngest actually had music on in her room yesterday which was probably a 10 year first.

    Actually ordered a 2nd chromecast to connect to a second channel on the russound unit so we can have a couple different streams going if needed.

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  • TeleFragger
    replied
    Originally posted by jryan15 View Post
    Thanks again for the extra help Jim. It was a pleasure talking to you. BTW I picked up a Chromecast audio last night and hooked it up. It is EXACTLY what I've been looking for for my whole home audio system for a long time. Much better than the bluetooth adapter that I had been using.
    hmm that maybe something worth its own thread for us to know how you did this!!!!

    Leave a comment:

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