Announcement

Collapse
No announcement yet.

Table lamp - local & HS control

Collapse
X
 
  • Filter
  • Time
  • Show
Clear All
new posts

    Table lamp - local & HS control

    I'm hoping someone has been able to solve a problem I've been wrestling with. I'd like to be able to turn a lamp with an LED dimmable bulb on/off locally at the lamp (High WAF) and also be able to control it (on/off/dim) with HomeSeer. Has anyone come up up with a solution? Ideally, someone would manufacture a Z-Wave Turn Knob Lamp Bulb Socket or screw-in socket with switch that supports LED, but I don't think it exists. I've considered a number of ideas, but I don't really like any of them. Ideas are 1) Z-Wave plugin Lamp module. Won't work because the lamp is plugged in to a recessed floor box, so I'd have to leave it on the table, plug the lamp into it and run and extension cord to the floor outlet; 2) Z-Wave remote. This could work, but it would add clutter on the tabletop and be another remote to misplace; 3) "hacked" Amazon Dash, but I've found them too unreliable; 4) Z-Wave Micro Switch. Modification of the lamp socket by using a Z-Wave Micro Switch between the lamp socket switch and the lamp socket, but I don't really want to modify the lamp. Additionally, I'm sure the Z-Wave Micro Switch aren't intended to be put inside a lamp body.

    Forrest

    #2
    I've gone with your option 4 to solve this issue for a bedside lamp. Using a z-wave in-wall dimmer (Qubino Flush Dimmer Module), I put this in the base of the lamp. Bought a small momentary press switch from a radio shack type store and added it to the back of the base, out of site. Cut and stripped the cabling in the lamp base and terminated as required to the module. A pair for the switch, a pair for the bulb, a pair for the AC mains. So now the options for turning the lamp on and off are pressing the button on the lamp, yelling at Alexa, using a hank z-wave four button remote, and optionally in the future a HS-WD200 wall dimmer switch by the door.

    This worked for me because the lamp is made of a metallic/pewter style material and has a hollow base. The situation would need to be different for a solid wooden lamp base. Another option I've considered is replacing the power cord to the lamp with a 5 core power lead, if such a thing exists. Two of those cores terminate to a cord switch, two more to the bulb. 5th core for a ground if required. Closer to the wall plug, a small junction box to house the z-wave module, with the 5 core cable coming out one side and a 2/3 core to mains coming out the other. The box containing the z-wave could be tucked out of site under a couch/behind a bed.

    I'm not certain how much being in the lamp base impacts the z-wave signal. It's not always obedient with the hank remote, but I'm fairly convinced that it's the remote that's the problem, as it also fails to operate a separate RGB module sometimes.

    If you're worried about screwing up your nice display lamp, consider buying a cheap lamp base form a thrift store to practice on first.

    Or if you're uncomfortable with electricity, maybe use a z-wave bulb in the lamp and have an electrician install a HS-WS200 or HS-WD200 in the room, program that to operate the lamp/z-wave bulb. That'll stop you losing remotes :P

    Comment


      #3
      There is a zwave screw in light socket. It looks a bit bulky and it's on/off not dimmable.

      https://www.amazon.com/Everspring-Z-...s=zwave+socket
      HS4 Pro on Shuttle NC10U, Win10; Z-NET
      Number of Devices: 449
      Number of Events: 210

      Plug-Ins: Arduino, BLLock, DirecTv, EasyTrigger, Honeywell WiFi Thermostat, MeiHarmonyHub, PHLocation2, Pushover 3P, UltraM1G3, WeatherXML, Worx Landroid, Z-Wave

      External applications: Homebridge-homeseer, Geofency, EgiGeoZone.

      Comment


        #4
        We use some remotes from Aeotec but they aren’t generally used except for bedside lamps, plugged into lamp modules. More often, we use Echo dots to control the lamps and the WAF is high.
        Michael

        Comment


          #5
          I have LIFX bulbs in the lamps and I use Pico remotes to turn them on/off with. For dimming/color etc we use the LIFX app or voice control. The WAF went very high with the Pico because of being able to turn them all on/off with a single button instead of walking around turning them all on/off as needed.

          Comment


            #6
            Originally posted by Fellhahn View Post
            I've gone with your option 4 to solve this issue for a bedside lamp. Using a z-wave in-wall dimmer (Qubino Flush Dimmer Module), I put this in the base of the lamp. Bought a small momentary press switch from a radio shack type store and added it to the back of the base, out of site. Cut and stripped the cabling in the lamp base and terminated as required to the module. A pair for the switch, a pair for the bulb, a pair for the AC mains. So now the options for turning the lamp on and off are pressing the button on the lamp, yelling at Alexa, using a hank z-wave four button remote, and optionally in the future a HS-WD200 wall dimmer switch by the door.

            This worked for me because the lamp is made of a metallic/pewter style material and has a hollow base. The situation would need to be different for a solid wooden lamp base. Another option I've considered is replacing the power cord to the lamp with a 5 core power lead, if such a thing exists. Two of those cores terminate to a cord switch, two more to the bulb. 5th core for a ground if required. Closer to the wall plug, a small junction box to house the z-wave module, with the 5 core cable coming out one side and a 2/3 core to mains coming out the other. The box containing the z-wave could be tucked out of site under a couch/behind a bed.

            I'm not certain how much being in the lamp base impacts the z-wave signal. It's not always obedient with the hank remote, but I'm fairly convinced that it's the remote that's the problem, as it also fails to operate a separate RGB module sometimes.

            If you're worried about screwing up your nice display lamp, consider buying a cheap lamp base form a thrift store to practice on first.

            Or if you're uncomfortable with electricity, maybe use a z-wave bulb in the lamp and have an electrician install a HS-WS200 or HS-WD200 in the room, program that to operate the lamp/z-wave bulb. That'll stop you losing remotes :P
            I have no issue working with electricity, but the switch needs to be on the lamp. I might try the micro dimmer...I just doubt it "certified/tested" to be installed anywhere but an electrical wall box. Lamp is has a clay body, but the base is faux metal (plastic) and I think the micro dimmer will fit it it.

            My wife yells at Alexa quite frequently....usually because Alexa doesn't understand her command (even though I ran the voice training routine with my wife's voice) or my wife doesn't remember the name of the device she's controlling. The WAF sinks very low when I repeat the same thing my wife said and Alexa executes the command

            Comment


              #7
              Originally posted by jmaddox View Post
              There is a zwave screw in light socket. It looks a bit bulky and it's on/off not dimmable.

              https://www.amazon.com/Everspring-Z-...s=zwave+socket
              Thanks, but I agree on the size. Too tall for the lamp i need to control.

              Comment


                #8
                Originally posted by Rvtravlr View Post
                We use some remotes from Aeotec but they aren’t generally used except for bedside lamps, plugged into lamp modules. More often, we use Echo dots to control the lamps and the WAF is high.
                The main problem I have using echos and/or remotes for the lamps, is we (the wife) sometimes (often) forgets and shuts the lamp turn knob off manually. Which of course kills any automation/remote control functionality. But there are many voice control options that do work great with the echos. My favorite is being able to turn all my outside lights on/off with a single command.

                Comment


                  #9
                  The simple table lamp is the bane of WAF approved home automation.

                  Comment


                    #10
                    Originally posted by kesterf View Post
                    The WAF sinks very low when I repeat the same thing my wife said and Alexa executes the command
                    I feel your pain all to often.
                    -Wade

                    Comment


                      #11
                      For years I have used a couple zwave lamp modules for our bedside lamps. I opened them up and brought out a couple jumpers connected to the built in switch on each module. A simple momentary push button added to the other end a I had local control and HS3 control over those lamps. My wife loved it, simple, tap on or off, hold to dim or brighten.
                      Click image for larger version

Name:	lamp module with ext.jpg
Views:	164
Size:	98.4 KB
ID:	1255142

                      Those were in place for a long time with zero issues.

                      Click image for larger version

Name:	nightstand buttons.jpg
Views:	141
Size:	44.1 KB
ID:	1255143

                      I just recently (this week) removed those and replaced them with wifi led controllers. I accidentally knocked her lamp of the table being lazy moving it with the lamp still on top and broke the mount that holds the shade off of the bulb holder. These lamps are really nice and I knew I was in trouble!

                      Click image for larger version

Name:	old lamp holder.jpg
Views:	161
Size:	144.2 KB
ID:	1255144

                      So I decided to rebuild them instead of trying to find that double bulb holder again, She got home and found her lamp in pieces, fun night, but I made them better and she is happier now than before.
                      I'll post that next.
                      John

                      Comment


                        #12
                        Quick teaser
                        https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=upBF69Igm6E

                        John

                        Comment


                          #13
                          You could always use the Caseta lamp dimmer and a pico remote on a pedestal on your table. You would then need a pro bridge to control it with HS. Expensive for just a lamp, but great solution if you want anything more!


                          Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

                          Comment


                            #14
                            Originally posted by lj502 View Post
                            Dude... full write up please :-)

                            EDIT: just realized you said you used wifi controllers. also interested in how you integrated into HS, and if there is still a zwave alternative.
                            Last edited by Tomgru; October 26, 2018, 10:38 AM.

                            Comment


                              #15
                              Originally posted by lj502 View Post
                              I just recently (this week) removed those and replaced them with wifi led controllers. I accidentally knocked her lamp of the table being lazy moving it with the lamp still on top and broke the mount that holds the shade off of the bulb holder. These lamps are really nice and I knew I was in trouble!

                              Click image for larger version

Name:	old lamp holder.jpg
Views:	161
Size:	144.2 KB
ID:	1255144
                              I realize you have already solved your problem, but for future reference check Amazon for lamp repair parts. I purchased a couple of similar sockets to convert some exterior wall sconces from single to double socket.

                              https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0...?ie=UTF8&psc=1



                              Comment

                              Working...
                              X