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  • 2GIG Z-wave thermostat reliability issues

    I have two 2GIG CT30 Z-wave thermostats in my house. These replaced two RCS TX15B thermostats. I have had these z-wave thermostats running for about 9 months and I am finding that they seem to be taking turns being inaccessible. Both may work fine for several days, then one or the other will be inaccessible ("Error sending temperature command (31-4), return was ERROR ID: 2" and "ZWave Thermostats Aborting poll of this thermostat due to an error retrieving the temperature. Node: 2"). At this point the tower icon is no longer blinking and to get the thermostat communicating again, I need to go to the menu and tap "mate" once again. In the worst case, I have to pull out the transmit/receive module (USNAP radio) and put it back in to get the device communicating again. I have used the tools with HS2 Pro to optimize the z-wave network and have used the independent Z-Seer program to optimize. However, even with optimization the problem recurs. I did not have such reliability issues with the X10 thermostats. I would like to know if others have had such issues with these thermostats and I would appreciate any advice about improving the reliability of these thermostats. Thanks.

  • #2
    Yes, I had those issues. I fixed them by replacing them with Honeywell TH8320ZW1007/U.

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    • #3
      Thanks. Elliott

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      • #4
        Wait - can you confirm that TH8320ZW1007/U works well with HomeSeer? Any special configuration tricks or anything? Standard z-wave thermostat driver?

        I have 4 CT30s running on batteries and they all are not reliable.

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        • #5
          Originally posted by jeremystevenson View Post
          Wait - can you confirm that TH8320ZW1007/U works well with HomeSeer? Any special configuration tricks or anything? Standard z-wave thermostat driver?

          I have 4 CT30s running on batteries and they all are not reliable.
          Do you not have a common to power these stats? If not the Honeywell isn't going to work either.
          -Rupp
          sigpic

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          • #6
            Hi, Rupp.

            Good point. I do not have the power for the stats. I'm going to get some transformers and just hang the wires outside the wall for a test and see if my problems go away. I have heard that will solve it.

            If I'm going to power the stats then I'll just rip out my walls and run power to them properly. In that case, the Honeywell starts to become an option.

            One thing I don't like about the CT30 is that it doesn't have a separate base for the wiring like most new thermostats. Also, the Honeywell products I have used in the past have been very reliable.

            Finally, I'm thinking about "homeseering" my office specifically for tstat control and would get the Honeywell if it worked well.

            So, would really like an opinion/review on the Honeywells.

            Comment


            • #7
              Originally posted by jeremystevenson View Post
              Hi, Rupp.

              Good point. I do not have the power for the stats. I'm going to get some transformers and just hang the wires outside the wall for a test and see if my problems go away. I have heard that will solve it.

              If I'm going to power the stats then I'll just rip out my walls and run power to them properly. In that case, the Honeywell starts to become an option.

              One thing I don't like about the CT30 is that it doesn't have a separate base for the wiring like most new thermostats. Also, the Honeywell products I have used in the past have been very reliable.

              Finally, I'm thinking about "homeseering" my office specifically for tstat control and would get the Honeywell if it worked well.

              So, would really like an opinion/review on the Honeywells.
              I agree on all you have said about the Honeywells. These are one of the best looking stats I've seen and it matches the 2 that I now have so if they are a direct drop in then this would be great. I asked Rick if these would work with HomeSeer and he stated they should but he simply hasn't had time to get one and test. He also said if they didn't he would make the changes so now it's up to someone to be the first to order on and see if they work.
              -Rupp
              sigpic

              Comment


              • #8
                Originally posted by Rupp View Post
                I agree on all you have said about the Honeywells. These are one of the best looking stats I've seen and it matches the 2 that I now have so if they are a direct drop in then this would be great. I asked Rick if these would work with HomeSeer and he stated they should but he simply hasn't had time to get one and test. He also said if they didn't he would make the changes so now it's up to someone to be the first to order on and see if they work.
                Yes, I have two of them, and they are working with HomeSeer with no problems (apart from the well known errors here and there in the log, version .43). They give correct operational status info to (cooling, heating idle, fan on, ...) No special tricks were required. You can program them to keep the backlight on all the time as well, which I like.


                They do need to be powered with the "C" wire, but they come with a multiplexer that allows you to rewire and use the fan wire as the C wire. You install the multiplexer at the furnace and it converts one wire from the thermostat to both a compressor control and a fan control wire. I don't know how well this works, because I have a C wire so I didn't use the extra devices.

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                • #9
                  Originally posted by jeremystevenson View Post
                  Hi, Rupp.

                  Good point. I do not have the power for the stats. I'm going to get some transformers and just hang the wires outside the wall for a test and see if my problems go away. I have heard that will solve it.

                  If I'm going to power the stats then I'll just rip out my walls and run power to them properly. In that case, the Honeywell starts to become an option.

                  One thing I don't like about the CT30 is that it doesn't have a separate base for the wiring like most new thermostats. Also, the Honeywell products I have used in the past have been very reliable.

                  Finally, I'm thinking about "homeseering" my office specifically for tstat control and would get the Honeywell if it worked well.

                  So, would really like an opinion/review on the Honeywells.
                  I had my CT30 running with the C wire. Still, the Z-wave would stop every now and then and a reset at the thermostat was required to get it going again.

                  You don't have to tear into the walls and run new wires with the Honeywell. You just have to install an extra device at the furnace to enable you to get power to the thermostat with the existing number of wires that you have. Amazon has the thermostat and they have pdfs of the install manual and operation manual, so that you can see how this would work.

                  Comment


                  • #10
                    Originally posted by joegr View Post
                    Yes, I have two of them, and they are working with HomeSeer with no problems (apart from the well known errors here and there in the log, version .43). They give correct operational status info to (cooling, heating idle, fan on, ...) You can program them to keep the backlight on all the time as well, which I like.


                    They do need to be powered with the "C" wire, but they come with a multiplexer that allows you to rewire and use the fan wire as the C wire. You install the multiplexer at the furnace and it converts one wire from the thermostat to both a compressor control and a fan control wire. I don't know how well this works, because I have a C wire so I didn't use the extra devices.
                    Nice. Thanks for the update.
                    -Rupp
                    sigpic

                    Comment


                    • #11
                      The problem may have been with my Z-Troller, rather than the thermostats. I decided to delete one of the thermostats and then add it back. When I pressed the delete button on the Z-Troller, I got "FAIL" instantly. Searching through the forum, I found that the fix for this "FAIL" issue is to remove the Z-Troller from the AC, remove the batteries, and place them back in. This fixed the Z-Troller and I was able to delete the thermostat and add it back. What makes me think it was the Z-Troller and not the thermostats is that before I fixed the Z-Troller, I could not "rescan" or "optimize node" of either thermostat and would just get error messages. Now, I can rescan and optimize both thermostats successfully.

                      Comment


                      • #12
                        I've had a 2Gig Thermostat powered up and included in my network for three weeks now. I haven't installed it yet in my HVAC system. It'd been on batteries most of this time.

                        At first, the thermostat, sitting on my desk next to the Z-Troller seemed to be communicating just fine. I was polling it at 30 minute intervals, with few errors.
                        A week ago, I moved the thermostat, still on battery, to the location where it will eventually be permanantly installed. Immediatly, the comm error rate increased, despite having re-optimized the network several times successfully at the new location. The frequency of the errors increased over time.

                        A day ago, I decided to try connecting a power supply (12VAC) to the thermostat (terminals Rh/Rc and C), as obviously the battery was reaching the end of its useful life. Ultimately, it will be powered through the HVAC system.
                        At this time, I performed a number of optimizations on the thermostat.
                        I've increased the poll frequency to (currently) six minutes. I intend to drive this as far as possible as a test. There have been ZERO communitcation error/warning messages for the thermostat in more than 24 hours. In addition, optimization is now reporting the thermostat has 29 neighbours where while on batteries, it had had fewer than half this number.

                        While I never intended to run in production on battery, the lesson here is that this thermostat simply won't be reliable doing so in a Z-Wave application.
                        Real courage is not securing your Wi-Fi network.

                        Comment


                        • #13
                          i have had similar problems and came home to a non functioning unit because of low batteries. I need to switch to a system that takes low voltage because i cant afford my house to be held hostage to some double a batteries. anyone have suggestions?
                          HS3 , Zwave, HometrollerS6, ELK M1G Ultra; mcs sprinklers; WGL800; BLRF; BLNetCallerID; BLSpeech

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                          • #14
                            i'd like to go with the Honeywell, can I just swap these out. i have a low voltage line there from the prior therms before i installed the 2gig zstat
                            HS3 , Zwave, HometrollerS6, ELK M1G Ultra; mcs sprinklers; WGL800; BLRF; BLNetCallerID; BLSpeech

                            Comment


                            • #15
                              Got a Honeywell on the way. I'll let you know how it goes. I actually have been still having problems with reliable communication to the thermostat that has power. I guess I spoke too soon about power fixing that problem. I did recently lose power, so perhaps I need to do a network optimization again.

                              We'll see how reliable the Honeywell is in comparison.

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