Hi, all,
Searched, but didn't find an answer.
I'm designing my next home and am now doing the electrical plan. Though I prefer hardwired over wireless (my current home has Centralite's LiteJet system) it seems many of the automation systems, including HS3, are ignoring most hardwired systems. My current home is still running HS2 Pro even though I own HS3 Pro. IAE, because of this lack of support, I'm going to go all Z-Wave in the new house and would like some opinions and/or advice.
I want to future-proof as much as possible, so having full wiring at all boxes is likely the safest. I realize it will be less expensive to use one WD100+ wired to power and load, then use WA100+ switches with travelers and neutrals at the remote locations. Two potential downfalls to this: if the WD100+ fails, then the remotes will not control the load. Second is you do not have the LEDs to let you know the dimming level, so if the WA100+ is in a location where you cannot see the load, then you don't have an indication of the level of dimming.
Given the above, other than the additional cost of the dimmers and/or switches and the cost of 3-wire cabling to all boxes, are there any pitfalls to using all WD100+ dimmers for all 3-way or 4-way locations?
BTW, I will be using HS3 Pro in the new home.
Thanks for your help,
Kevin
Searched, but didn't find an answer.
I'm designing my next home and am now doing the electrical plan. Though I prefer hardwired over wireless (my current home has Centralite's LiteJet system) it seems many of the automation systems, including HS3, are ignoring most hardwired systems. My current home is still running HS2 Pro even though I own HS3 Pro. IAE, because of this lack of support, I'm going to go all Z-Wave in the new house and would like some opinions and/or advice.
I want to future-proof as much as possible, so having full wiring at all boxes is likely the safest. I realize it will be less expensive to use one WD100+ wired to power and load, then use WA100+ switches with travelers and neutrals at the remote locations. Two potential downfalls to this: if the WD100+ fails, then the remotes will not control the load. Second is you do not have the LEDs to let you know the dimming level, so if the WA100+ is in a location where you cannot see the load, then you don't have an indication of the level of dimming.
Given the above, other than the additional cost of the dimmers and/or switches and the cost of 3-wire cabling to all boxes, are there any pitfalls to using all WD100+ dimmers for all 3-way or 4-way locations?
BTW, I will be using HS3 Pro in the new home.
Thanks for your help,
Kevin
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