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  #1  
Old September 10th, 2016, 05:05 AM
mrhappy mrhappy is offline
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Z-Uno - Z-Wave + Arduino with HS3

Not seen this little device mentioned but idly browsing through the Amazon HA section the other day I spotted the Z-Uno which is a Arduino compatible Z-Wave interface. Not that cheap really (£50) but thought I would buy one to have a look. I'm posting here because other people may want in the future buy one and wonder whether or not it works with HS. The frequency (USA/Europe/Russia) can be changed in the Arduino IDE however it appears that there is no USA reseller of these devices yet.

It appears from my testing so far to work well with HomeSeer, I have the example blink project working and that creates a device in HomeSeer that sends commands to the board to change the blink rate of the on board LED.

The board itself looks to be quite powerful, has a number of outputs/inputs/I2C even triac/zero crossing lines for an AC dimmer. There are four PWM outputs and four ADC inputs to name but a few of the IO things.

Possibilities are quite limitless in reality and I am not sure what I am actually going to use it for, one application I have seen people not find with Z-Wave is multi output (as in more than two) control for things like irrigation systems. I'm trying to figure out an example for that at the minute but even the certified examples could be adapted for this purpose;

http://z-uno.z-wave.me/examples/
http://z-uno.z-wave.me/

Last edited by mrhappy; December 28th, 2016 at 04:21 PM.
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  #2  
Old September 10th, 2016, 10:38 AM
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Hey Adam, does look interesting, although a bit on the expensive side. Hopefully the NA version will be available soon.

Cheers
Al
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  #3  
Old September 17th, 2016, 06:16 AM
mrhappy mrhappy is offline
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Interestingly I wonder if I have the same issue here that has been seen in modules like the Fibaro/Qubino whereby they don't play nicely with HS where there are multiple endpoints. I don't really know enough of the intricacies of Z-Wave here but I have created a very basic sketch that is essentially certified on the basis of the certified 10 channel sketch http://z-uno.z-wave.me/examples/Certified10Channels/ just with three additional channels and this is the code;

Code:
#define LedPin1 9
#define LedPin2 10
#define LedPin3 11
#define LedPin4 12
#define LedPin5 18
#define LedPin6 19

byte switchValue1 = 1;
byte switchValue2 = 1;
byte switchValue3 = 1;
byte switchValue4 = 1;
byte switchValue5 = 1;
byte switchValue6 = 1;

ZUNO_SETUP_SLEEPING_MODE(ZUNO_SLEEPING_MODE_ALWAYS_AWAKE);
ZUNO_SETUP_ASSOCIATIONS(ZUNO_ASSOCIATION_GROUP_SET_VALUE); // Send Basic Set to association group

ZUNO_SETUP_CHANNELS(
  ZUNO_SWITCH_BINARY(getterSwitch1, setterSwitch1),
  ZUNO_SWITCH_BINARY(getterSwitch2, setterSwitch2),
  ZUNO_SWITCH_BINARY(getterSwitch3, setterSwitch3),
  ZUNO_SWITCH_BINARY(getterSwitch4, setterSwitch4),
  ZUNO_SWITCH_BINARY(getterSwitch5, setterSwitch5),
  ZUNO_SWITCH_BINARY(getterSwitch6, setterSwitch6)
);

void setup() {
  pinMode(LedPin1, OUTPUT);
  pinMode(LedPin2, OUTPUT);
  pinMode(LedPin3, OUTPUT);
  pinMode(LedPin4, OUTPUT);
  pinMode(LedPin5, OUTPUT);
  pinMode(LedPin6, OUTPUT);
}

void loop() {
  // Empty
}

void setterSwitch1(byte value) {
  digitalWrite(LedPin1, (value > 0) ? HIGH : LOW);
  switchValue1 = value;
}

byte getterSwitch1(){
  return switchValue1;
}

 void setterSwitch2(byte value) {
  digitalWrite(LedPin2, (value > 0) ? HIGH : LOW);
  switchValue2 = value;
}

byte getterSwitch2(){
  return switchValue2;
}

void setterSwitch3(byte value) {
  digitalWrite(LedPin3, (value > 0) ? HIGH : LOW);
  switchValue3 = value;
}

byte getterSwitch3(){
  return switchValue3;
}

void setterSwitch4(byte value) {
  digitalWrite(LedPin4, (value > 0) ? HIGH : LOW);
  switchValue4 = value;
}

byte getterSwitch4(){
  return switchValue4;
}

void setterSwitch5(byte value) {
  digitalWrite(LedPin5, (value > 0) ? HIGH : LOW);
  switchValue5 = value;
}

byte getterSwitch5(){
  return switchValue5;
}

void setterSwitch6(byte value) {
  digitalWrite(LedPin6, (value > 0) ? HIGH : LOW);
  switchValue6 = value;
}

byte getterSwitch6(){
  return switchValue6;
}
The device adds to HS correctly and creates a root device and six child devices.

Code:
Add Node started...
Activate the 'Add to Network' function on the device...
A new node is being added...
Adding a new SLAVE NODE...
DONE - Add Node Operation is Complete.
Done. Node 28 Added. 
Reloading (importing) node information...
Synchronizing node information with HomeSeer and creating new device(s) as necessary...
Synchronize nodes finished. Number of device nodes to be created/added = 1
Z-Wave manufacturer information for node 28, ID: 277=115H (Z-Wave.Me), Type: 272=110H, ID: 1=1H
Node: 28 Supports Class(es): ZWAVEPLUS_INFO_V2, BASIC, SWITCH_BINARY, CONFIGURATION, ASSOCIATION, MULTI_INSTANCE_ASSOCIATION, MULTI_CHANNEL_V2, FIRMWARE_UPDATE_MD, DEVICE_RESET_LOCALLY, ASSOCIATION_GRP_INFO, POWERLEVEL, VERSION_V2, MANUFACTURER_SPECIFIC
Node 28 is Z-Wave version: Lib: 4.05 App: 0.67
Node 28 is a Z-Wave Plus node. Retrieving ZWPlus Info...
All associations for node 28 have been retrieved successfully, it supports associations on these groups: 1.
Getting Z-Wave Plus Association Group Information (1 groups) from Node 28...
Root Node Device Z-Wave Z-Wave.Me Switch Binary was created for node 28 on network E4F5DD8A
Home Interface: Adding association for Z-Wave device Z-Wave Z-Wave.Me Switch Binary (Node 28, Group 1, Endpoint 1) to HomeSeer
6 out of 6 Child devices of node 28 were created successfully.
Finished.
Now if you come to control the device in HS then outputs 2,3,4,5 and 6 all work correctly. However control output 1 and one of the other outputs will always switch with it, in my previous sketch with only four outputs then it was output two but now with six outputs it is output three. Attached is a screenshot of output 1 being turned on by the HS web page and output 3 following suit by being turned on (same last change times).

Interestingly when output 1 is switched on from HS then on the device only output 1 is high even though in HS it shows output 1 and 3 on (as the photo shows with the single LED on). Turning the device off from HS also turns output 1 low, so it is solely the HS representation of the devices that appears to be the issue (of course I don't know if there are any Z-Wave commands going to the board which are being filtered out by it's firmware).

I know support for this issue may be limited but I wonder if it is also part of the wider issue with some multi channel devices not playing the game.

Bug 3361 filed.
Attached Images
  
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  #4  
Old July 11th, 2017, 08:03 PM
ALittleSlow ALittleSlow is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by sparkman View Post
Hopefully the NA version will be available soon.
It's available in North America now. https://z-uno.us/ $69.90 US plus shipping.
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  #5  
Old July 11th, 2017, 08:12 PM
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langenet langenet is offline
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This is real cool... I can see numerous additions to HA with these...

Robert
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  #6  
Old July 12th, 2017, 08:10 PM
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Black Cat Black Cat is offline
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[QUOTE=mrhappy;1264904]Interestingly I wonder if I have the same issue here that has been seen in modules like the Fibaro/Qubino whereby they don't play nicely with HS where there are multiple endpoints. I don't really know enough of the intricacies of Z-Wave here but I have created a very basic sketch that is essentially certified on the basis of the certified 10 channel sketch http://z-uno.z-wave.me/examples/Certified10Channels/ just with three additional channels and this is the code;
/endquote]

I had a similar problem with a 4 channel relay and found it was somehow connected to using PINS 17 & 18. For some reason INT 0 & 1 don't like being defined as OUTPUTS.

My solution was to USE INPUTS on PINS 5 to 8 and OUTPUTS on PINS 9 to 12. They will work but also interfere with other OUTPUT PINS.

I'm going to try a new sketch using PINS 19 to 23 (5 channel) as OUTPUTS and see if that also works.

It's possible that you might be able to use 6 channels by avoiding INT 0 & 1.
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  #7  
Old July 12th, 2017, 08:26 PM
logbuilder logbuilder is offline
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This sounds like an interesting derivative of the arduino. Pricey though.

Over in the Arduino Plugin sub-forum, we are doing some pretty interesting stuff with the wifi enabled arduinos (called nodeMCU). I don't have any z-wave installed so it made sense for me to use wifi. Works well.

The nodeMCUs are about $8.50 from Amazon. About $3.00 from eBay shipped from China.
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  #8  
Old July 12th, 2017, 09:17 PM
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Black Cat Black Cat is offline
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Now for something wierd.

I used your sketch with Vera, found no problem with interference between channels.

Then I redefined the OUTPUT PINS to
Code:
#define LedPin1 9
#define LedPin2 10
#define LedPin3 11
#define LedPin4 12
#define LedPin5 13
#define LedPin6 14
and ran into the same problem as you encountered.

What makes this weird is that I use
Code:
// RELAY or LED pin number

#define LED_PIN1 9    //  9 pin - user LED of Z-Uno board
#define LED_PIN2 10   // 10 pin - user LED of Z-Uno board
#define LED_PIN3 11
#define LED_PIN4 12
for my 4 channel version (with switches) and it works as required.

Initially, I had similar problems until I cleaned up the code and moved the PINS

I raised this in
http://forum.z-wave.me/viewtopic.php...t=25083#p69299

with no solution. Now it appears it is a problem with HS.

I'll continue to play with this as it needs a resolution but my knowledge is minimal and expectations high with ZUNO.
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  #9  
Old July 12th, 2017, 10:03 PM
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Black Cat Black Cat is offline
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This works in HS.

Code:
#define LedPin1 10
#define LedPin2 19
#define LedPin3 20
#define LedPin4 21
#define LedPin5 22
#define LedPin6 23
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  #10  
Old October 3rd, 2017, 11:04 AM
PoltoS PoltoS is offline
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Hello!

HomeSeer team was very kind to have a look in this problem and they have fixed the problem in their Z-Wave plugin version 3.0.1.146 which is in the BETA section of the plugins page. Please give it a try and report us if this helped to solve tour problem.

According to the support team Z-Uno is now working with HomeSeer
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  #11  
Old December 5th, 2017, 06:28 AM
venno venno is offline
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Got one of these yesterday and am trying the relay sketch but ramping it up for an 8 relay board.

Only 1 to 7 work, 8 triggers relay 1. I am using pins 9 to 12 and 19 to 22 respective to ledpins 1 to 8.

I have tried other pin combinations but these all result in issues, the above gives me 7 workable relay outputs that operate within a second of change in hs3. Other combos result in either incredibly slow response and still only 7 relays or don’t work at all.

I also tried sketch with only 7 relays, dropped pin 22, but this ran really slow and was unworkable.

I think this a hs zwave issue as other platforms don’t seem to have any issue, according to their forums.
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  #12  
Old January 8th, 2018, 08:56 PM
venno venno is offline
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Mods, could you please move or link this thread to the primary technologies zwave topic as there may be more correct exposure from that topic to garner a solution.
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  #13  
Old January 9th, 2018, 03:35 AM
tome10 tome10 is offline
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I've been wanting a battery powered latching switch relay for a while now. Just stick a huge battery pack on it, and sell it to me. Please! I could try doing it myself, but I'd need a lot of help. I have a couple of decorative battery powered lamps that I would love to be able to turn on via motion sensor. I'd rather not run wires in the middle of my dining room table. It's z-wave plus that supports the Beaming/light sleep or whatever right? What kind of battery life could you get out of a 3kMah battery? I'm always impressed with my door locks battery life. To be always available to receive commands, and motor locked a few to a dozen times a day, and only have to replace 'rechargeable' batteries every 6-8 months, I just marvel at it.
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Old January 20th, 2018, 06:04 AM
mrhappy mrhappy is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by tome10 View Post
I've been wanting a battery powered latching switch relay for a while now. Just stick a huge battery pack on it, and sell it to me. Please! I could try doing it myself, but I'd need a lot of help. I have a couple of decorative battery powered lamps that I would love to be able to turn on via motion sensor. I'd rather not run wires in the middle of my dining room table. It's z-wave plus that supports the Beaming/light sleep or whatever right? What kind of battery life could you get out of a 3kMah battery? I'm always impressed with my door locks battery life. To be always available to receive commands, and motor locked a few to a dozen times a day, and only have to replace 'rechargeable' batteries every 6-8 months, I just marvel at it.
I'm afraid it just wouldn't work, certainly for the Z-Uno as I worked it out as I was interested.

If you took an average set of LED lights at say 40mA (with supporting transistor) and ran these for 8 hours a day then it would be 320mA. The Z-Uno in FLIRS (light sleep) uses 1mA (although it claims to be able to draw less if you start taking components off, not something I want to do). If you have the remaining 16 hours at 1mA then it is 336mA a day.

Working on the fact that your battery pack was 100% efficient (never going to happen) and there was no other losses then at most from a 3000mAh battery you are going to 8.9 days before it needs charging again. I would imagine you are going to get tired of recharging that pretty quickly.

You might be able to get some optimization if you were to look at some boost circuits or PWM'ing the lights so fast you don't notice but I doubt you would stretch those 9 days to a great deal more.

Locks are likely heavily optimised (both mechanically and electronically) and won't be open (ie drawing current) for any more than a few seconds before they go back to bed. Suddenly if you draw 50mA when the lock opens for 30 seconds and then the rest of the day at 1mA or less you are going to get good battery life.

I'd love to see something similar myself but if it was feasible I think it would already be out!
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Old January 20th, 2018, 02:10 PM
tome10 tome10 is offline
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Mr Happy, is the 9 days estimate just the Z-UNO operating? I would have a separate battery pack for the Decorative Leds. Which is the reasoning for the latching relay to only switch the lights on.
I think most of the zwave battery stuff uses 3.3v, and the Z-Uno is using 5v. Is this a factor? Someone earlier mentioned an arduino wifi, is that 3.3 volts? As a long shot, my qwikset Locks all have these removable homeconnect zwave chips with a bunch of pins (sold on amazon), and the locks operate with 4AA batteries. I can’t find a schematic of this chip, but I would think I could program the chip in the lock, and then remove it and wire it for power and a couple of those pins should be switchable via HS. Thoughts?
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Old January 21st, 2018, 06:00 AM
mrhappy mrhappy is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by tome10 View Post
Mr Happy, is the 9 days estimate just the Z-UNO operating? I would have a separate battery pack for the Decorative Leds. Which is the reasoning for the latching relay to only switch the lights on.
I think most of the zwave battery stuff uses 3.3v, and the Z-Uno is using 5v. Is this a factor? Someone earlier mentioned an arduino wifi, is that 3.3 volts? As a long shot, my qwikset Locks all have these removable homeconnect zwave chips with a bunch of pins (sold on amazon), and the locks operate with 4AA batteries. I can’t find a schematic of this chip, but I would think I could program the chip in the lock, and then remove it and wire it for power and a couple of those pins should be switchable via HS. Thoughts?
Yes, the Z-Uno alone draws 1mA so with a 3000mAh you should in theory get 3000 hours (125 days, so four months) not counting in any losses and working that it is 100% charged etc. It does seem to imply that the 1mA is to do with the DC-DC conversion ("about 70 μA if DC-DC is turned off by unsoldering R12" - https://z-uno.z-wave.me/technical/) but it's not clear then if you have to provide it directly with a 3V3 supply (I am guessing you do) so you'd likely still have to convert it somehow if you were using a 5V power bank.

A latching relay sounds like the sort of thing to look at (smaller the better for the lower opening current), I'm afraid I don't have one in my box of relays else I'd try it for you and see how I got on. It sounds possible albeit could be quite expensive if you look at one Z-Uno per LED strip.

I don't imagine you would have great success trying to modify an existing Z-Wave interface, the ICs are probably proprietary and expecting all sorts of things before they work. I doubt it is as simple as one pin is saying open/close the motor, even if it was the IC is likely to be in a format that would be incredibly difficult to deal with (whether BGA or similar pins).
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Old January 21st, 2018, 09:39 PM
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Black Cat Black Cat is offline
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I'd imagine that this example would be somewhat similar to your requirement.

http://z-uno.z-wave.me/examples/batt...d-wall-switch/

I can't back up the battery life with data, but have read of users using a setup of coin sized lith batteries in parallel to obtain a good battery life.

I would be asking the question on the ZUNO forum to get a better response.
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Old January 21st, 2018, 10:41 PM
tome10 tome10 is offline
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I could live with 4 months battery life lol! I did read somewhere that the dc-dc stepdown for Arduino's in general weren't very efficient. There was also a post where a guy was trying to power it by batteries @3.3v, and was instructed to not then plug in the USB power supply without doing something to protect the circuit.
I posted in the Z-Uno forums, but I gave up checking the post after a couple of weeks with no replies.
I have a lot of these AA snap together battery things, and I thought I could just have a couple of AA's in series for 3v, and a couple more parallel for capacity, but doing some reading I think then I would need some type of step up converter to get the 3.3, and if I tried using rechargeable AA batteries, I think the voltage would be even lower, so now i'm not sure about how to get it the 3.3v.
https://www.teachersource.com/produc...city-magnetism

So, Mr Happy, can I get a list of what I would need? I keep thinking about getting an Arduino Starter Kit just for starters, that I think comes with the breadboard. The parts for the Latching Relay I have no idea, and any other things I would need. Thanks!

Here's my Post on Z-Wave.Me, this guy says something about FLIRS, which I think is built into Z-Wave Plus devices, and a Bistable Relay, which reads a pulse and closes circuit, and reads another pulse to open.
https://forum.z-wave.me/viewtopic.ph...powered#p72019

Last edited by tome10; January 21st, 2018 at 11:18 PM.
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Old January 21st, 2018, 11:20 PM
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Black Cat Black Cat is offline
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You won't have any problems running at 3V.
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Old January 22nd, 2018, 04:55 PM
mrhappy mrhappy is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by tome10 View Post
I could live with 4 months battery life lol! I did read somewhere that the dc-dc stepdown for Arduino's in general weren't very efficient. There was also a post where a guy was trying to power it by batteries @3.3v, and was instructed to not then plug in the USB power supply without doing something to protect the circuit.
I posted in the Z-Uno forums, but I gave up checking the post after a couple of weeks with no replies.
I have a lot of these AA snap together battery things, and I thought I could just have a couple of AA's in series for 3v, and a couple more parallel for capacity, but doing some reading I think then I would need some type of step up converter to get the 3.3, and if I tried using rechargeable AA batteries, I think the voltage would be even lower, so now i'm not sure about how to get it the 3.3v.
https://www.teachersource.com/produc...city-magnetism

So, Mr Happy, can I get a list of what I would need? I keep thinking about getting an Arduino Starter Kit just for starters, that I think comes with the breadboard. The parts for the Latching Relay I have no idea, and any other things I would need. Thanks!

Here's my Post on Z-Wave.Me, this guy says something about FLIRS, which I think is built into Z-Wave Plus devices, and a Bistable Relay, which reads a pulse and closes circuit, and reads another pulse to open.
https://forum.z-wave.me/viewtopic.ph...powered#p72019
I've ordered a latching relay to test the current draw and should be here in a couple of days so I will let you know how I get on. I don't imagine you would need anything apart from the Z-Uno, a transistor/base resistor, a diode just to stop back EMF and the relay.

I was going to use one of those small capacity power banks, the type you can pick up for nothing and they have a 1200mAh capacity (advertised!). I guess it's probably not all that efficient to go up to 5V then back down but still it is just to test and the relay coil I have bought is 5V so I would need it anyway. I do have a minor concern about the boost circuit in the power banks may switch off with only a 1mA load but I will see.
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