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Help on UPB 3 way using Simply Automated switches

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    #16
    Thanks,
    I'll give it a try. I have just the application for it.
    tenholde
    tenholde

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      #17
      Originally posted by pete@malibubeach.com View Post
      The short answer is "yes". As anogee points out, you can only have two different links attached to a switch: on for the top rocker and one for the bottom rocker. Or on a US2-40, one link for each push button or the top and bottom of each toggle.

      Then there can be up to four different commands sent to that link: single tap, double tap, push and hold, release. The push and release actions are not terribly useful---I tried them, but the time delay between the time they are sent and the time the trigger is detected and activated makes them pretty unpredictable. So you can ,gor example, do exactly what you asked---bottem rocker single tap send linkxx OFF and bottom rocker double sends linkxx immediate off; and at the same time, if oyu wish, top rocker single tap sends linkyy ON and bottom sends linkyy immediate ON.

      And then, yes, homeseer can detect the link commands and do whatever you want.

      ONE IMPORTANT THING (that kept me going for a long time): in the UPB plug-in setup screen, you'll want to enable the option: "Force all link commands to be considered a 'change' trigger". Otherwise your triggers won't work correctly.

      Pete
      I have an HAI 6 button controller.

      The ON button is set to LINK01, SNAP ON for both single and double click

      The OFF button is set to LINK01, Deactivate for single click and
      LINK01, SNAP OFF for double click

      I've set up an event to fire when LINK01 value becomes SNAP OFF.


      This works if using the status screen, I set LINK01 to SNAP OFF. It doesnt fire again if I repeat it, unless I activate LINK01 first. Then SNAP OFF fires the event again.

      However, I cannot get a double click of the HAI 6 button controller OFF button to fire the event. It is transmitting the link, as another us-240 that recieves the link does turn off.

      Any idea what I am doing wrong?

      tenholde
      tenholde

      Comment


        #18
        I also had trouble installing switches in a 3-way this past weekend. I was trying to install a US2-40 in the J-box with the line power and a US11-30 in the remote location. I got the US2-40 wired up and working with the regular decora remote switch but only when the US2-40 was first turned on. So then I tried to replace my "dumb" decora switch with the US11-30 but I tired wiring it as the remote switch according to the USR instructions. It didn't work. Probably because I need to wire each switch similar to being a single switch rather than a three way?
        I have a meter and found power on my red wire before the "master" switch is turned on. I thought the red was the traveler and one of the blacks would be line.
        Further more in the remote J-box I only have four wires; Red, black, white with black tape, and ground.

        Is it even possbile for ya'll to help me figure out these wires without seeing them?

        Comment


          #19
          You can't wire a US11-30 "as a remote switch following the USR instructions." You wire a USR as a USR or wire a US11-30 as a US11-30 but maybe without a load. If you install a US11-30, you only install three wires, ground (green), neutral (white) and hot (black). If this doesn't make sense to you, it might be time to hire someone to install the switches. (Wiring should not be a trial-and-error task.)

          Comment


            #20
            Ok. Thanks for the tips. Event 5 also emailed me and offered assitance via phone. I may take him up on that, or your advice of hiring someone (and then I watch every step so I know how to do other 3 ways)

            Thanks!

            Comment


              #21
              3+ way configurations

              Good information, there has been a lot to digest here.

              I am understanding that the US11-30 is being used in the remote box as a link controlling type switch and does not control the load directly as the original 3 way did? Is this correct? (you have to setup link control) for this X way to work like the original? Simply Automated calls this Virtual Remote when there are 2 UPB link controlling switches/ or more on a Xway setup.
              this type of configuration allows many more UPB type controls.

              As I go explore the 3+ ways I have installed and scope out UPB replacements I have seen "full boxes" with little space. I wish there was
              a better way to handle these full boxes, I shorten the wires sometimes and the wire nut space becomes a hard to find issue.

              So far the 3 ways main / master switch have been in the desired location.

              Is the wiring for the main / master switch always different from the "remote / alternative" switch ? ... so as a result the US-240 has got to be installed in a specific location and the remainder of the 3ways are US11-30 or USR ??

              And is the connection on the USR ( connection to each terminal or quick connect) specific ? I am not clear on this?

              US-240
              wht/brn to traveller wire (red) to wht/brn on remote
              brown wire connects to load wire
              black to black power line hot
              white to white wire neutral
              gnd to gnd wire


              USR has;
              wht/brn to traveller wire (red) from main switch
              led wire connects to load wire
              white to white wire
              gnd to gnd wire

              Do I have the right idea ?

              Thanks in advance.

              Richard G
              HS3 Standard Edition 3.0.0.258

              Comment


                #22
                I figured mine out when I found the following info, online, to identify each wire. Then I used the pdf attachment to wire up my virtual remote scenario. It works great! Thanks for everyone's help.
                Attached Files

                Comment


                  #23
                  3 way and 4 way diagrams

                  I've retrofitted a number of 3 way and 4 way circuits with UPB. Sometimes using remotes and other times using "real" switches without loads. I've found this web site really helpful in clarifying my understanding of how they work which gives you the info you need to figure out which wire is which because it seems that every installation is different (red wire in one place is probably different than a red wire someplace else):

                  http://www.selfhelpandmore.com/switchoutlet/3way/

                  Click on home and you can see a link to 4 ways as well.

                  Figuring out which wire is which is key to deciding if a remote will work for you (cheapness aside) or how to get two switches wired properly in a 3-way

                  aldon

                  Comment


                    #24
                    So then I don't even need a UPB slave? I could use an x10 slave switch, w/ a UPB "master?"

                    I'm having similar trouble as people have discussed on this thread...seems that I have multiple black wires, one is traveller? and one is load, and my red wire goes...somewhere. Still digging/learning, obviously.
                    Plugins:
                    BLLogMonitor, BLGarbage, BLBackup, BLOutGoingCalls, BLUps, BLRfid, JvEss, DooMotion, Applied Digital Ocelot, AC RF Processor, UltraMon, PJC AVR 430, UPB, Rain8net, DSC Panel, JRiver Media center, Windows Media Player, SageMediaCenter, SnevlCID, MCSTemperature.

                    Comment


                      #25
                      getting close...

                      I identified most of the wires. I'm doing a 3 way, with HAL-RSR01 (slave) and HAL-RS101 (master)

                      Here's what I've discovered in the wiring in wall:
                      Hot (black), identifed
                      common (white)
                      ground
                      Red - goes to light
                      Traveler - goes to 3 way location

                      I've wired it according to the diagram provided w/ the switches except that I swapped red for black traveler and vise versa, based on what the diagram explains. Both switches have LED showing, but neither turns light on. When I disconnect the red (to light) and black hot on the remote switch, I can touch them together and it turns the light on.

                      any ideas? I thought about putting one of them (probably the master) in setup mode to program it, thinking maybe that would make it turn the light on...when I put it in setup mode, the light doesn't turn on, so I abandoned that strategy.
                      Plugins:
                      BLLogMonitor, BLGarbage, BLBackup, BLOutGoingCalls, BLUps, BLRfid, JvEss, DooMotion, Applied Digital Ocelot, AC RF Processor, UltraMon, PJC AVR 430, UPB, Rain8net, DSC Panel, JRiver Media center, Windows Media Player, SageMediaCenter, SnevlCID, MCSTemperature.

                      Comment


                        #26
                        So then I don't even need a UPB slave? I could use an x10 slave switch, w/ a UPB "master?"
                        Yes*

                        When I disconnect the red (to light) and black hot on the remote switch, I can touch them together and it turns the light on.
                        You are getting close if you can do this. If you look deep into the box you maybe able to see which black, white and red "travel" together to the other box. The red is probably connected to a black wire in the other box that goes to the light. This is the hardest part of installing switches.

                        Compare what you have to this pdf. You may see the light,(at the end of the tunnel)

                        http://board.homeseer.com/attachment...6&d=1181320715

                        Dave

                        Comment


                          #27
                          got it! I had to use one of the travelers in the slave side to get the load over to the master side, all good! thanks very much! Now I just need to wait for more $ for more upb switches!
                          Plugins:
                          BLLogMonitor, BLGarbage, BLBackup, BLOutGoingCalls, BLUps, BLRfid, JvEss, DooMotion, Applied Digital Ocelot, AC RF Processor, UltraMon, PJC AVR 430, UPB, Rain8net, DSC Panel, JRiver Media center, Windows Media Player, SageMediaCenter, SnevlCID, MCSTemperature.

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