Announcement

Collapse
No announcement yet.

Replacing fuse in Zwave switches

Collapse
X
 
  • Filter
  • Time
  • Show
Clear All
new posts

    Replacing fuse in Zwave switches

    Hi All,

    So I had a power surge issue (high winds pulled my electrical mast clean off the house!) and lost 6 Linear Zwave light switches and 1 GE outdoor module.
    The modules do not power up at all from what I can tell.

    I know that the Linear switches have a built in fuse for protection but I am not sure what it looks like or where it is located.

    Has anyone attempted to repair a Zwave switch before or know where the fuse on Linear switches is located?

    Thanks,
    Paul

    #2
    I replace the fuse in one of my linear switches. It was a small glass fuse soldered right onto the circuit board.
    https://forums.homeseer.com/forum/de...plifier-plugin

    Comment


      #3
      Hi Happnatious,

      Mine are the model WS-15Z model and do not appear to be using a standard glass type fuse. I suspect it is a disc (similar to capacitors) fuse or possibly even a current limiter of some sort that is blown. I will upload a picture of the circuit board when I get home from work.

      Thanks for the reply,
      Paul

      Comment


        #4
        Originally posted by patsonrt1 View Post
        Hi Happnatious,

        Mine are the model WS-15Z model and do not appear to be using a standard glass type fuse. I suspect it is a disc (similar to capacitors) fuse or possibly even a current limiter of some sort that is blown. I will upload a picture of the circuit board when I get home from work.

        Thanks for the reply,
        Paul
        What is probably shorted is an MOV (Metal Oxide Varistor) or other similar voltage limiting device. These devices are designed to clamp transient surges of approximately 140- 150% of line voltage. They will clamp small surges, but when your house got hit it is likely your devices were exposed to 240V at high currents. In many cases the MOV will short rather than just clamp when exposed to high current and voltage.

        I would be wary of any device that was exposed to an over voltage situation sufficient to damage the transient surge device in it. I would also suspect that other devices sustained damage if you have this many Z-Wave devices.

        Your homeowner's insurance will probably cover the damage. As long as the other damage will cover the deductible, add the damaged devices to your claim.
        HS4 Pro, 4.2.19.0 Windows 10 pro, Supermicro LP Xeon

        Comment


          #5
          I think you are right about the MOD and I think I know which component it is but have no idea of a part number or rating to replace it with.

          Strange enough but I only lost the Zwave switches, all other electronics are still running a few months after the surge event, so I guess the zwave switches are sensitive.

          Nothing else in the house was lost so it was not worth a insurance claim and I already replaced the switches but man would it be nice to fix the bad ones :-)

          Comment


            #6
            Originally posted by patsonrt1 View Post
            I think you are right about the MOD and I think I know which component it is but have no idea of a part number or rating to replace it with.

            Strange enough but I only lost the Zwave switches, all other electronics are still running a few months after the surge event, so I guess the zwave switches are sensitive.

            Nothing else in the house was lost so it was not worth a insurance claim and I already replaced the switches but man would it be nice to fix the bad ones :-)
            If you do this it is at your own risk. If the device is a MOV and it is shorted, its only purpose is to protect the electronics in the switch. By extension it might protect LED, CCFL or other electronic lighting devices connected to it. You could remove the device and replace the fuse with the same value and it would not be a safety or fire hazard, but another large transient surge would likely destroy the devices you remove it from.

            A suitable replacement is probably available here. Pick the physical size and 185V (150% of supply) minimum voltage.
            HS4 Pro, 4.2.19.0 Windows 10 pro, Supermicro LP Xeon

            Comment


              #7
              Thanks Randy,

              I will do some recon tonight to see if I can locate the MOV.

              Comment


                #8
                I think I have found the culprit. It is a 500ma slow blow fuse. Not sure how I missed it before but I will blame it on my eyesight:-) Of course after I removed it from the circuit board I can see "F1" was printed on the board, but it was under the fuse so no way to see it until the component was removed

                I will replace it next week and update this thread with the results.

                Thanks!
                Attached Files

                Comment


                  #9
                  what did you come up with?

                  Comment


                    #10
                    Originally posted by thewizardofoz View Post
                    what did you come up with?
                    Sorry, this thread dropped off my radar. So I replaced the fuse and the switches are back up and running!

                    Comment

                    Working...
                    X