x10 filter for new PC

[fungun]

What X10 filter is best for using on a new PC?
My future son-in-law built me a new computer and now hardly any of my X10 works. I have had it plugged into different outlets so I know it is the computer.
Had to put the old PC back in service and all is ok now.

Thanks,
Tim

[kensmith]

My advice would be to plug it in through a UPS.
The UPS will act as a filter and also give you back up power in the event of small power outages. It also protects against power surges

regards

[Uncle Michael]

My advice would be to plug it in through a UPS. The UPS will act as a filter

While the UPS may act as a filter, it will also act as a huge X10 noise source and signal sink itself. You'll still need a filter, I suspect.

With regard to choosing one, I don't think it matters much as long as it's suitable for the current draw and a legitimate filter - not a fake. An Amazon search turns up many choices.

If you ask this question on the X10 forum you may get more response.

[Kitar]

Fungun, the Leviton 6288 noise block is a solid choice, designed for the task. Leviton/X-10 same tech. Some newer PCs have crazy big power supplies so you may want to check what the filter can handle before purchasing.

In the meantime if you need to use your new PC place it downstream of a few surge suppressing power bars while making sure all X-10 transmitters and receivers are upstream. Noise suppressors can have an adverse effect on the X-10 signals.

As a general rule the heavier the power conditioner the more likely it will have an inductive choke in it which is really what a good power conditioner will use. A 1:1 isolation transformer would also be a very effective filter.

I respectfully disagree with Michael on the UPS. I have a UPS on the same circuit but downstream from a X-10 CM-11a transceiver and don't see any ill effects of it. It is an off-line UPS which doesn't do much until after the power fails.

[Pete]

Here added outlets next to fuse panel just for X10 / UPB stuff on separate breakers.

I did this in the Homeseer 1 days (late 1990's) running the CM11A cable from the basement fuse panel to the then attic configured Homeseer 1 box.

I was using cat5e for these wires and decided to downgrade them to thinner RJ11 telephone cables and RJ12 insulated flat 6 wire cables.

Runs to the OmniPro 2 and the server areas are less than 50 feet and I have no issues today using the UPB, CM11A, TW523, XTB Amplifier and XTB-IIR.

I have 4 UPS's next to the servers with no X10 filters today. There is one UPS by one LCD TV / office PC with X10 filters.

[Krumpy]

Tim,

While I agree with Pete, you may want to try a different power supply. Especially, if you can return the one that is in there. A different brand power supply.

[macromark]

What X10 filter is best for using on a new PC?
My future son-in-law built me a new computer and now hardly any of my X10 works. I have had it plugged into different outlets so I know it is the computer.
Had to put the old PC back in service and all is ok now.

Thanks,
Tim

I have one at home that's yours for the cost of shipping. If you're interested, I'll double check and bring it in. I think it's this one: http://www.smarthome-products.com/p-...er-module.aspx

[fungun]

I have one at home that's yours for the cost of shipping. If you're interested, I'll double check and bring it in. I think it's this one: http://www.smarthome-products.com/p-...er-module.aspx

Thank you Marcomark, but the book he gave me on the power supply looks like it goes between 20 and 24 A. Of course I am no electrician and may be reading it wrong.

Thanks,
Tim

[macromark]

Thank you Marcomark, but the book he gave me on the power supply looks like it goes between 20 and 24 A. Of course I am no electrician and may be reading it wrong.

Thanks,
Tim

Unless your PC is freakishly power hungry, a filter rated at 5 amps should be fine. The math works like this: A 600 Watt PC power supply (avg size for a low end gaming PC) operating on 120 volts will consume 5 amps of power at FULL load (Amps = Watts / Volts). It would take a LOT to push a PC to that kind of load. Example: My son has a pretty robust gaming PC with a 700 watt power supply. I put a Watt stopper on it and it measured 250 watts under load... that's approx 2.1 amps. Of course, I'm not an electrician either so maybe someone else can check my math... I'm not taking the power factor into account.

[fungun]

I just found the book he gave me.
This is what it says.
Thank you,
Tim

[Pete]

Curious what the hardware specs are for the PC (CPU, RAM, video and any cards mounted inside).

Reason I ask is that I am running HS3 Pro on an iSeries / 16 Gb of RAM using a pico PSU with a 12VDC 4 AMP power brick which is hardly warm at all today.

The older core duos before the iSeries were very power hunger.

Relating to X10 here went to using Volp's stuff for X10 on steroids. That said recently been testing the TW523 and CM11A directly on to the powerline and the footprint is as good as it is with Jeff's stuff. The server section with the UPS's are on two separate 20 amp circuits. I do see noise but the X10 is working fine.

IE: made a portable RPi for testing remote plugins such that I have run the device with the CM11A around the house (well and zwave and UPB). Well today it is serving as a 1-Wire temperature hub and Z-Wave device in the attic.

[fungun]

Here is the site he gave me.
Thanks,
Tim

https://pcpartpicker.com/list/thnz9W

ps the only thing wrong on the list is the video card. He ended up putting in a Nvidia something, I don't remember now, but it is 2 or 3 GB.

[macromark]

I just found the book he gave me.
This is what it says.
Thank you,
Tim

Those current specs are for the output side of the power supply at low voltage (5v or 3.3v). The filter would be concerned with the input side... the current load that the power supply presents to your power panel at 120v. Remember that most AC receptacles you buy at Home Depot are rated at 15 amps (1800 watts max). That rating is enough to support 120 volt refrigerators, air conditions, furnaces, etc. Most PC's consume 200 watts or less (2 amps or less at 120v). A HomeTroller S6 eats less than 25 watts (0.2 amps).

If you're nervous about it, check with an electrician.

[Pete]

A quick glance indicates that the motherboard is very energy efficient. Well this is similar to many motherboards today.

Borrow an amp reader (from work maybe?) and check if you want to see the draw.

[ATTACH]60613[/ATTACH]

In 2003 (with whatever the average PC was) the average draw was a bit over one amp.

Have a read about power supplies in general here:

How PC Power Supplies Work

Doubt that it is even close to 5 AMPs (as mentioned by Mark above).

The X10 5AMP filter would be fine for the computer and I wouldn't worry about exceeding a 5 AMP draw.

[macromark]

Here is the site he gave me.
Thanks,
Tim

https://pcpartpicker.com/list/thnz9W

ps the only thing wrong on the list is the video card. He ended up putting in a Nvidia something, I don't remember now, but it is 2 or 3 GB.

Tim - For the list you sent, looks like you have a 500 Watt power supply. The most current it will draw is 500(w) / 120(v) = 4.17 (amps) and that is at FULL LOAD.