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    #31
    Originally posted by Burrington View Post
    For future reference your breakers are as follows (as per the yellow label, not the numbers on the panel):
    Leg 1 = Breakers 1,2,5,6,9,10a,10b,13,14a,14b,17,18
    Leg 2 = Breakers 3,4,7,8,11a,11b,12,15,16,19,20a,20b
    Does anyone know why the 'standard' breaker numbering scheme is this way?

    If you find this pattern as bewildering as I do, there is a very easy way to simplify the identification of which breaker is on which leg:
    Start at the upper left with the first load breaker (skip the main). Number the breaker positions in sequence down the left side. After reaching the last breaker position on the left continue from the top right position. (Tandem breakers are given a/b designations because they occupy one breaker position.)

    If you number that way, the odd numbered positions are on one leg and the even numbers are on the other. I can think of no disadvantage to using that numbering scheme and have been doing it that way on my panels for over 30 years.
    Mike____________________________________________________________ __________________
    HS3 Pro Edition 3.0.0.548, NUC i3

    HW: Stargate | NX8e | CAV6.6 | Squeezebox | PCS | WGL 800RF | RFXCOM | Vantage Pro | Green-Eye | Edgeport/8 | Way2Call | Ecobee3 | EtherRain | Ubiquiti

    Comment


      #32
      It's physically laid out that way so that a double pole breaker can be placed in any position in the panel and is guaranteed to be on both legs. Eliminates the possibility of getting double poles on one leg and overheating the neutral. Not all panels are like that, older FPE panels come to mind.

      Why they number across instead of up and down is anybody's guess, but I suspect its so that breaker positions are always in the same place on any size panel. IE #7 is fourth down on the left whether its an 8 space panel or a 64 space panel. Usually there is no need to know which leg a circuit is on, its only us X10/Insteon people that care about that. Normal electrical loads are randomly placed on both legs and its assumed that in the big picture it balances out. Beyond that we would probably have to go back in time and ask Tom Edison...

      Comment


        #33
        Originally posted by Burrington View Post
        It's physically laid out that way so that a double pole breaker can be placed in any position in the panel and is guaranteed to be on both legs.
        I understand the rationale for the physical layout.
        Why they number across instead of up and down is anybody's guess, but I suspect its so that breaker positions are always in the same place on any size panel. IE #7 is fourth down on the left whether its an 8 space panel or a 64 space panel.
        Except that positions number 9-64 are in different positions. Besides, position #7 will be in the same place if you number the other way too.
        Usually there is no need to know which leg a circuit is on, its only us X10/Insteon people that care about that.
        . . .and UPB. But if you are using a power line control system, it does matter. That was my main point. If you renumber the locations, you can make life a bit easier with no downside that I'm aware of.
        Mike____________________________________________________________ __________________
        HS3 Pro Edition 3.0.0.548, NUC i3

        HW: Stargate | NX8e | CAV6.6 | Squeezebox | PCS | WGL 800RF | RFXCOM | Vantage Pro | Green-Eye | Edgeport/8 | Way2Call | Ecobee3 | EtherRain | Ubiquiti

        Comment


          #34
          Originally posted by Uncle Michael View Post
          I understand the rationale for the physical layout.
          Yes I knew you understood it. I was really adding that part for others who may not be familiar with it.

          Originally posted by Uncle Michael View Post
          Except that positions number 9-64 are in different positions. Besides, position #7 will be in the same place if you number the other way too.
          I think 9-64 would be in the same place regardless of panel size if they are numbered across rather than down one side and then the other. But you are right, I chose my example poorly. I should have used #8 which would be on the left on an 16 breaker panel, and the right on an 8 breaker panel. In any case, I was just speculating on why they chose that standard.

          Originally posted by Uncle Michael View Post
          If you renumber the locations, you can make life a bit easier with no downside that I'm aware of.
          Yes, that's a good idea - simple and effective.

          Comment


            #35
            Originally posted by Burrington View Post
            I think 9-64 would be in the same place regardless of panel size if they are numbered across rather than down one side and then the other.
            You are correct. I misunderstood your example. I agree, it's the most likely explanation for the numbering choice. Initially, it probably let the box manufacturers emboss the position numbers without having to rearrange their dies depending on the number of positions, just stamp the ones that matched the box.
            Mike____________________________________________________________ __________________
            HS3 Pro Edition 3.0.0.548, NUC i3

            HW: Stargate | NX8e | CAV6.6 | Squeezebox | PCS | WGL 800RF | RFXCOM | Vantage Pro | Green-Eye | Edgeport/8 | Way2Call | Ecobee3 | EtherRain | Ubiquiti

            Comment


              #36
              Originally posted by mnsandler View Post
              Mike, have you performed some of the diagnostics we disc previously. I didn't see any posts with your results.
              Well, I've tried unplugging many more things and shutting off many circuits, but I have yet to unplug everything at once and add stuff back gradually. I've been looking for a single culprit but I suppose it may be a combination of things. What's hanging me up is the sudden change after eliminating some neutral sharing, and the fact that I thought each Insteon device rebroadcasts messages. I have so many Insteon devices, many dual band, in relatively close proximity, I just don't understand the randomness of the problem. I realize powerline comm has issues but with so many dual-band devices on this circuit, I'm surprised I'm having problems...unless dual-band devices don't rebroadcast on the powerline the messages it receives via RF. Is it possible to have too many Insteon devices on one circuit. There are currently 11. 1 extra for Christmas lights right now, normally 10. 3 of them are not connected to any load. It doesn't seem to matter how many of them are on or off.

              That is correct, my PLM is on the opposite phase as the troublesome circuit, but other circuits on the opposite leg are doing just fine. I would think I have enough dual-band devices to solve that issue...unless I'm misunderstanding how that's supposed to work. I tried connecting two SignalLincs I had laying around, one on this troublesome circuit, one on the other phase. It seemed to make things worse. I would also think the proximity of other dual-band devices on this circuit, and others on the other phase, would eliminate the phase bridging problem. But again, perhaps I don't understand enough how Insteon works. I will try your suggestion, Burrington, with my oven. Anything with two full breaker slots, joined together, on the left hand side of my breaker box, is a 240v circuit/appliance, correct? On this note, though, sometimes HS will send out a group message and 1 of the two dual-band devices in the same junction box, on the same circuit, won't respond. How does that happen if the message is supposed to be repeated? It's right there! This proves the message should've gotten to the other phase, or at least a dual-band device on the other phase.

              Burrington, you make me want to get an electrician here to check things out regardless. I've been shocked w/ 120v before but 240v scares me a little. Not sure I want to open that box myself. I've been meaning to get someone out here anyway. My lights will occasionally flicker/dim when something high power turns on, and not just on the troublesome circuit. I hear this can be fixed, sometimes easily. Already had power company check connections outside. Now I need to check the box. I wonder if this power flicker may be the source of some of my problems.

              All that said, I've been in this house for 3 years and had it inspected before purchase. Do inspectors open up electrical boxes? I would hope so. I haven't made any changes in there myself so I would expect it to be all OK. And I would expect that if I overloaded a circuit that it would trip the breaker...assuming everything is wired correctly.

              My HS computer and other workstation are both plugged into UPSs. I unplugged the UPSs and ran some tests. No change in results. And again, dual-band devices are near the PLM. What is the range supposed to be on RF comm anyway?

              Curious to hear how many FilterLincs everyone has around their house.

              I would expect I have many signal suckers and noise generators, but I also would've expected all of the dual-band devices I have around the house to overcome those issues. Still confused by that. I think I need to bite the bullet and unplug EVERYTHING as Mark suggests and see if I still have a problem. It must not be just one thing. :-(
              HS4, Insteon, Z-wave, USB-UIRT, Harmony Hubs, Google Hub/Chromecasts/Speakers, Foscam & Amcrest cameras, EZVIZ DB1 doorbell
              Plugins: BLLAN, BLOccupied, BLUSBUIRT, Chromecast, Harmony Hub, Insteon, Jon00 Homeseer/Echo Skill Helper, Harmony Hub, Jon00 DB Charting, MediaController, NetCAM, PHLocation2, Pushover 3P, weatherXML, Z-wave

              Comment


                #37
                I'm going to put this out there because I had a strange situation in my house. I was installing a zwave switch in the office and noticed arcing within a bunch of white wires held with a wire nut. Still haven't gotten to the bottom it as I will need to get a real electrician into the attic, but somehow in the attic the white wire that arcs becomes black and feeds electricity to the outlets in the living room at the other side of the house. The house was completely rewired after Sandy and I assume someone made a mistake. I can confirm that the outlets in the living room are all reversed load/line with a tester I bought. So I can kill the outlets in the living room by shutting off that breaker or by disconnecting a neutral at the other side of the house.

                This causes communication issues with some X10 items I still have but hasn't caused issues with z-wave.

                AFAIK, you should not have arcing on neutrals if everything on that circuit is off so you might need to check for reversed wires.

                Comment


                  #38
                  Originally posted by mrceolla View Post
                  Well, I've tried unplugging many more things and shutting off many circuits, but I have yet to unplug everything at once and add stuff back gradually. I've been looking for a single culprit but I suppose it may be a combination of things. What's hanging me up is the sudden change after eliminating some neutral sharing, and the fact that I thought each Insteon device rebroadcasts messages. I have so many Insteon devices, many dual band, in relatively close proximity, I just don't understand the randomness of the problem. I realize powerline comm has issues but with so many dual-band devices on this circuit, I'm surprised I'm having problems...unless dual-band devices don't rebroadcast on the powerline the messages it receives via RF. Is it possible to have too many Insteon devices on one circuit. There are currently 11. 1 extra for Christmas lights right now, normally 10. 3 of them are not connected to any load. It doesn't seem to matter how many of them are on or off.

                  That is correct, my PLM is on the opposite phase as the troublesome circuit, but other circuits on the opposite leg are doing just fine. I would think I have enough dual-band devices to solve that issue...unless I'm misunderstanding how that's supposed to work. I tried connecting two SignalLincs I had laying around, one on this troublesome circuit, one on the other phase. It seemed to make things worse. I would also think the proximity of other dual-band devices on this circuit, and others on the other phase, would eliminate the phase bridging problem. But again, perhaps I don't understand enough how Insteon works. I will try your suggestion, Burrington, with my oven. Anything with two full breaker slots, joined together, on the left hand side of my breaker box, is a 240v circuit/appliance, correct? On this note, though, sometimes HS will send out a group message and 1 of the two dual-band devices in the same junction box, on the same circuit, won't respond. How does that happen if the message is supposed to be repeated? It's right there! This proves the message should've gotten to the other phase, or at least a dual-band device on the other phase.

                  Burrington, you make me want to get an electrician here to check things out regardless. I've been shocked w/ 120v before but 240v scares me a little. Not sure I want to open that box myself. I've been meaning to get someone out here anyway. My lights will occasionally flicker/dim when something high power turns on, and not just on the troublesome circuit. I hear this can be fixed, sometimes easily. Already had power company check connections outside. Now I need to check the box. I wonder if this power flicker may be the source of some of my problems.

                  All that said, I've been in this house for 3 years and had it inspected before purchase. Do inspectors open up electrical boxes? I would hope so. I haven't made any changes in there myself so I would expect it to be all OK. And I would expect that if I overloaded a circuit that it would trip the breaker...assuming everything is wired correctly.

                  My HS computer and other workstation are both plugged into UPSs. I unplugged the UPSs and ran some tests. No change in results. And again, dual-band devices are near the PLM. What is the range supposed to be on RF comm anyway?

                  Curious to hear how many FilterLincs everyone has around their house.

                  I would expect I have many signal suckers and noise generators, but I also would've expected all of the dual-band devices I have around the house to overcome those issues. Still confused by that. I think I need to bite the bullet and unplug EVERYTHING as Mark suggests and see if I still have a problem. It must not be just one thing. :-(
                  Mike,
                  since you have so few breakers, here is my suggestion:

                  shutoff all breakers except the one that supports your plm, hs server, and signalinc. the signalinc should be installed at the panel across two breakers that are on opposite phases. do not install multiple signalincs. see instructions for installation questions.

                  now turn on the circuit(s) you are having trouble with and test. test control, test comms, etc and record results for each circuit and insteon device.

                  if things still aren't working correctly, then you know the problem is isolated to the circuits you have on. Start unplugging devices on those circuits and retest.

                  if things are working correctly, turn on one new breaker and retest everything again and record results for that circuit.

                  once you find the source of the problem, we can help resolve it.

                  do not worry about filterlincs, dual-band devices or how the insteon protocol works. just focus on the above.
                  Mark

                  HS3 Pro 4.2.19.5
                  Hardware: Insteon Serial PLM | AD2USB for Vista Alarm | HAI Omnistat2 | 1-Wire HA7E | RFXrec433 | Dahua Cameras | LiftMaster Internet Gateway | Tuya Smart Plugs
                  Plugins: Insteon (mine) | Vista Alarm (mine) | Omnistat 3 | Ultra1Wire3 | RFXCOM | HS MyQ | BLRadar | BLDenon | Tuya | Jon00 Charting | Jon00 Links
                  Platform: Windows Server 2022 Standard, i5-12600K/3.7GHz/10 core, 16GB RAM, 500GB SSD

                  Comment


                    #39
                    Originally posted by mnsandler View Post
                    shutoff all breakers except the one that supports your plm, hs server, and signalinc. the signalinc should be installed at the panel across two breakers that are on opposite phases. do not install multiple signalincs. see instructions for installation questions.
                    I guess I misspoke. I have 2 SignalLinc RF devices. The kind that require two of them to do anything. I haven't used them in this house except for that one test I did with them recently which seemed to make things worse. Should I bother trying to use these?

                    Does the rest of your suggested test method stay the same with or without these?

                    If I'm going to have an electrician open up my electrical box, should I purchase one of these hard-wired SignalLincs and have him install it in the breaker box? Do they help even if you have a bunch of dual-band devices? Do you use one?
                    HS4, Insteon, Z-wave, USB-UIRT, Harmony Hubs, Google Hub/Chromecasts/Speakers, Foscam & Amcrest cameras, EZVIZ DB1 doorbell
                    Plugins: BLLAN, BLOccupied, BLUSBUIRT, Chromecast, Harmony Hub, Insteon, Jon00 Homeseer/Echo Skill Helper, Harmony Hub, Jon00 DB Charting, MediaController, NetCAM, PHLocation2, Pushover 3P, weatherXML, Z-wave

                    Comment


                      #40
                      Originally posted by mrceolla View Post
                      I guess I misspoke. I have 2 SignalLinc RF devices. The kind that require two of them to do anything. I haven't used them in this house except for that one test I did with them recently which seemed to make things worse. Should I bother trying to use these?

                      Does the rest of your suggested test method stay the same with or without these?

                      If I'm going to have an electrician open up my electrical box, should I purchase one of these hard-wired SignalLincs and have him install it in the breaker box? Do they help even if you have a bunch of dual-band devices? Do you use one?
                      forget the signallinc rf devices for now. they aren't necessary when you have plenty of dualband.

                      i have the hardwired signalinc; it might be a good idea; but later after you test

                      please proceed with the testing
                      Mark

                      HS3 Pro 4.2.19.5
                      Hardware: Insteon Serial PLM | AD2USB for Vista Alarm | HAI Omnistat2 | 1-Wire HA7E | RFXrec433 | Dahua Cameras | LiftMaster Internet Gateway | Tuya Smart Plugs
                      Plugins: Insteon (mine) | Vista Alarm (mine) | Omnistat 3 | Ultra1Wire3 | RFXCOM | HS MyQ | BLRadar | BLDenon | Tuya | Jon00 Charting | Jon00 Links
                      Platform: Windows Server 2022 Standard, i5-12600K/3.7GHz/10 core, 16GB RAM, 500GB SSD

                      Comment


                        #41
                        Originally posted by mrceolla View Post
                        I will try your suggestion, Burrington, with my oven. Anything with two full breaker slots, joined together, on the left hand side of my breaker box, is a 240v circuit/appliance, correct?
                        Yes, you could use any 240v appliance, but the oven or dryer are best because they have a big low resistance electric element which is a perfect phase coupler for powerline signals. You also know exactly when they are on, unlike the electric water heater. The air conditioner motors are not as good for phase couplers because of their inductance.
                        Originally posted by mrceolla View Post
                        On this note, though, sometimes HS will send out a group message and 1 of the two dual-band devices in the same junction box, on the same circuit, won't respond. How does that happen if the message is supposed to be repeated? It's right there! This proves the message should've gotten to the other phase, or at least a dual-band device on the other phase.
                        They may be both responding, but if the signal received back at the PLM is weak, one might get through and the other not. If there is a lot of noise on the line, or weak signals, there may be too many retransmissions and they run out of retries before it is successful.
                        Originally posted by mrceolla View Post
                        Burrington, you make me want to get an electrician here to check things out regardless. I've been shocked w/ 120v before but 240v scares me a little. Not sure I want to open that box myself. I've been meaning to get someone out here anyway. My lights will occasionally flicker/dim when something high power turns on, and not just on the troublesome circuit. I hear this can be fixed, sometimes easily. Already had power company check connections outside. Now I need to check the box. I wonder if this power flicker may be the source of some of my problems.

                        All that said, I've been in this house for 3 years and had it inspected before purchase. Do inspectors open up electrical boxes? I would hope so. I haven't made any changes in there myself so I would expect it to be all OK. And I would expect that if I overloaded a circuit that it would trip the breaker...assuming everything is wired correctly.
                        If you're not comfortable opening the panel, don't! If you get an electrician in, make sure he knows what your suspicions are about having both breakers of common neutral circuits on the same phase so he will look for that specifically. Tell him that you got a shock in an outlet box with the breaker off.

                        When you see those tandem breakers in a panel, it means for sure that it has been modified (the original installer would have just installed a bigger panel with enough breaker slots). There are lots of cowboys that know enough to be dangerous and your previous home owner may have been one of them.

                        No, I wouldn't expect a home inspector to open the electrical panel and look for things like that. He should look at the panel and an overview of the type and quality of wiring. He might check a few outlets to make sure they test properly.

                        Originally posted by mrceolla View Post
                        My HS computer and other workstation are both plugged into UPSs. I unplugged the UPSs and ran some tests. No change in results.
                        When you unplugged your UPS, was the computer still plugged directly into the wall, IE without a filter? If so, I encourage you to try it with a filter on the computer. Plug the computer, printer, screen, etc into a power bar, then plug the power bar into the filter. Only the filter and the PLM should be plugged directly into the wall. This will eliminate the UPS and computer which are both drastic powerline signal killers from affecting the PLM. I think you said you had a filter on your stereo equipment somewhere else. Unplug all that and borrow the filter for the test.

                        Remember that computers and many other electronic devices have great noise/surge suppressors that kill powerline signals and they do it whether they are turned on or not! Just having one plugged in still kills the signal.
                        Originally posted by mrceolla View Post
                        Curious to hear how many FilterLincs everyone has around their house.
                        I have 11 filters that I can think of off hand. However, I may have gone overboard because I wanted a super-robust system. My signal meter identified all devices that were Insteon loads so I put filters on them even if they were small. You won't need that many to make your system work.
                        Originally posted by mrceolla View Post
                        I would expect I have many signal suckers and noise generators, but I also would've expected all of the dual-band devices I have around the house to overcome those issues. Still confused by that. I think I need to bite the bullet and unplug EVERYTHING as Mark suggests and see if I still have a problem. It must not be just one thing. :-(
                        Dual-band devices are great because they provide a secondary path to get around obstacles. But your non-dual band devices still require a good powerline signal to function. If they must rely on the dual-band devices to get them back and forth every time, they are going to have problems, and they are going to clutter up the RF side as well. Your goal should be to have a reliable RF system and a reliable Powerline system so that signals can travel in the shortest and fastest route via their native protocol, and so temporary issues on one or the other doesn't stop your system from functioning. If your powerline system isn't working because of lack of filters or other issues, then you are counting on everything to work on just the RF side of dual-band. RF isn't perfect either; its can be bothered by interference from other RF devices, nearby radio transmitters, etc, etc. So you need to have both sides working as well as possible.

                        Analogy: Think of dual-band as being a commuter train line (RF) and a bus line (Powerline) to get people back and forth between home and work. Some people have access to the bus and train (dual-band devices), but some people only have access to the bus (Powerline only devices). If the train (RF) isn't working, everyone can still get to work on the bus, but there is lots of congestion and delays because the bus is slower and overloaded. If the bus (Powerline) is down, some people can't get to work at all depending on the point of failure. In some cases they can take the bus part way and then get on the train to get to work. But that means transferring which causes lots of delays and still congests the now over-crowded train. If there is another failure further up the train line, maybe they can get off the train and transfer back to the bus to finish the journey. Having both paths certainly gives more options to get to work, but it sure doesn't work as well unless both paths are working their best.

                        I admire your determination at getting your system to work! Don't give up, you WILL find it, and once you do your system will work very nicely. But, if you want to save a lot of time, buy that signal meter. It makes it a hundred times easier to identify the culprits and know that you've solved them.

                        Comment


                          #42
                          Hi folks!

                          Check out this beautiful image! I’m so happy right now. Here’s what I did.

                          I was about to turn off all but two circuits and begin testing as Mark suggested. However, that’s not a super popular thing to do when there are other people in the house :-) I wanted to try one last thing…move the PLM.

                          I love the flexibility that the Ethernet connection on the PLM offers you to move it far away from your PC. I had tried this 2nd location years ago but got worse or the same results, so I had just left the PLM near the PCs. Granted, at that time, I didn’t bother trying to unplug or filter anything. This time, after the addition of more dual-band devices over the years, everything was much improved with the PLM in this second location, except 1 device that failed 100% of the time. This device was powerline only and on the same circuit as the PLM. I wondered how it could’ve gotten WORSE with the PLM on the same circuit. I thought perhaps the PLM stopped sending/receiving powerline correctly. AND THEN…I unplugged a couple power strips on this circuit. After that, my tests were nearly 100% on 1 hop on all devices! It seems only 1 of the 2 power strips caused an issue after testing each individually. Could be due to what was connected to them, what was on or taking power, or one of the power strips acts as a filter as Burrington had suggested in some of his posts.

                          You’re so right, Burrington. The problems are often not where you suspect them to be.

                          Let’s backup. After having read much about this being a bad thing to do, I had my PLM plugged into the same circuit as a couple UPSs and a power strip, not to mention some florescent lighting (not 100% sure if those are bad). Comm was good enough until recently so I hadn’t cared much. After unplugging the UPSs and testing recently, things weren’t significantly better. The other power strip on that same circuit was off but not unplugged. A half-assed test at best. I assumed these items were not the problem. However, the offending power strip was still plugged in on another circuit during those UPS tests, and that circuit happens to be on the same phase as my problem circuit, which is maybe why I didn’t notice any improvement when unplugging only the UPSs. Of course I hadn’t realized that power strip was a problem at that time. This proves you can find yourself getting nowhere when only testing one thing at a time. There is likely more than one thing contributing to the problem. I think that was my big problem here. I kept testing just one thing or area at a time. I just happened to get lucky with this last test. Moving the PLM back to the old location near the UPSs, even with that problem power strip unplugged near the new location, yielded poorer results than with the PLM in the new location. This seems to indicate the UPSs and/or power strip in that room are also culprits, but fortunately they don’t seem to be affecting any of my other devices with the PLM in this new location.

                          The PLM was moved to the bottom right most circuit in my circuit breaker box (image earlier in this thread). It is now on the opposite phase that it used to be on, which puts it on the same phase as the problem circuit that started this thread. All of my tests of all devices have been great so far. Very few 2 hops. I don’t think any 3 hops. The only single failure I’ve seen is from a 2-wire dimmer RF only device which was on, yet surrounded by other RF devices. I guess that proves RF is not 100% either.

                          Oh, I moved a FilterLinc from my frig to the problem power strip. The one on the frig didn’t seem to do anything for me. The filtered powerstrip is having zero effect on comm now.

                          I’m sure I could improve things even more with some additional FilterLincs on my UPSs or other power strips in the house, but things are looking better than ever right now. With all devices reporting all 4 pings on 1 hop nearly 100% of the time when I run a batch test, is there anything more to gain?

                          Burrington, in one of your posts you noted that some power strips act as great filters. Is there any way to tell which ones may work well as filters themselves, vs kill the Insteon signals? I’d like to just buy more of those. Probably cheaper than FilterLincs. Is there a way to test them short of trial and error or buying a $300+ signal meter?

                          Thanks so much for everyone’s advice. If I develop these sorts of problems again in the future, I think I am better prepared.

                          Yippee!!!
                          Attached Files
                          HS4, Insteon, Z-wave, USB-UIRT, Harmony Hubs, Google Hub/Chromecasts/Speakers, Foscam & Amcrest cameras, EZVIZ DB1 doorbell
                          Plugins: BLLAN, BLOccupied, BLUSBUIRT, Chromecast, Harmony Hub, Insteon, Jon00 Homeseer/Echo Skill Helper, Harmony Hub, Jon00 DB Charting, MediaController, NetCAM, PHLocation2, Pushover 3P, weatherXML, Z-wave

                          Comment


                            #43
                            Congrats. Glad you resolved the issue.
                            ps just buy filterlincs in january when smarthome puts everything on sale for 20% off.
                            Mark

                            HS3 Pro 4.2.19.5
                            Hardware: Insteon Serial PLM | AD2USB for Vista Alarm | HAI Omnistat2 | 1-Wire HA7E | RFXrec433 | Dahua Cameras | LiftMaster Internet Gateway | Tuya Smart Plugs
                            Plugins: Insteon (mine) | Vista Alarm (mine) | Omnistat 3 | Ultra1Wire3 | RFXCOM | HS MyQ | BLRadar | BLDenon | Tuya | Jon00 Charting | Jon00 Links
                            Platform: Windows Server 2022 Standard, i5-12600K/3.7GHz/10 core, 16GB RAM, 500GB SSD

                            Comment


                              #44
                              Originally posted by mnsandler View Post
                              ps just buy filterlincs in january when smarthome puts everything on sale for 20% off.
                              I never noticed that sale :-( I think I could use a few more FilterLincs.
                              HS4, Insteon, Z-wave, USB-UIRT, Harmony Hubs, Google Hub/Chromecasts/Speakers, Foscam & Amcrest cameras, EZVIZ DB1 doorbell
                              Plugins: BLLAN, BLOccupied, BLUSBUIRT, Chromecast, Harmony Hub, Insteon, Jon00 Homeseer/Echo Skill Helper, Harmony Hub, Jon00 DB Charting, MediaController, NetCAM, PHLocation2, Pushover 3P, weatherXML, Z-wave

                              Comment


                                #45
                                Mrceolla, Sorry I never answered your question about powerstrips that act as good filters. I bought a couple of very high-end ones to protect some very expensive A/V equipment, which turned out to be very good filter-lincs. Unfortunately they were about double the price of filterlincs, so no joy there...

                                But you can do your own testing by plugging that known-bad power strip into the others and see if the comm results are good or bad.

                                Bottom line: BUY MORE FILTERLINCS!!!

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