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  #1  
Old April 13th, 2011, 10:03 AM
Ricky Ricky is offline
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Solar panel disconnect IP addressable

I am looking for a way of disconnecting/connecting a solar array of panels from over the internet.

The panels are an unusual configuration in that they output 110 V DC. They output about 5 amps.

The IP relays from Aviosys are only rated up to 60 V DC (e.g. http://www.aviosys.com/9223k.html)

I have used a number of Elk relays for disconnects of AC loads (http://www.elkproducts.com/_webapp_2...elay_Contactor) but they are rated AC. I am checking with manufacturer if I can use them for DC.

Looking for ideas about how to disconnect a 110 V DC solar array at a remote site over the internet.

Thanks in advance...
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  #2  
Old April 13th, 2011, 12:44 PM
zap zap is offline
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Not sure if disconnecting totaly would be wise could cause over heating of the cells, re-routing to a dump load might be wiser.

Webbase DC relays could be hard to find.
Maybe use an old style Ford starter relay and the http://www.aviosys.com/9223k.html)
http://www.controlbyweb.com/webrela/...FaRl7Aod0mDhDA
to trigger it
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Old April 13th, 2011, 03:27 PM
8r1an 8r1an is offline
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Do a search for 150v DC relays quite a few come up in a search. Usually on electric vehicles
Just had a look at some solid state relays that i got of ebay and they are rated 24v to 220v DC

@zap that is how solar charge controllers work by disconnecting the solar panel.
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  #4  
Old April 13th, 2011, 06:32 PM
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Steve Q Steve Q is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Ricky View Post
I am looking for a way of disconnecting/connecting a solar array of panels from over the internet.
Just curious, why would you want to disconnect them?

Steve Q
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Old April 13th, 2011, 08:16 PM
Ricky Ricky is offline
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This is a remote site off the grid about an hour from Tucson AZ. There is no charge controller on the batteries, as I couldn't find one rated at 110 V DC (if anybody knows of controllers rated at 110 DC voltage then I will get that.) The panels were matched to the batteries and usage so as to not overcharge while I live there, but now for some periods I am not there and in the summer in Arizona the batteries get over charged in those situations. I monitor the voltage, charge rate, etc remotely using phidgets and Homeseer and I can turn stuff on and off using IP relays, etc. I would like to be able to disconnect the panels in these situations until I return to the site and need power. If there is another way to look at this situation please let me know. 30 years ago I wired the house for AC and DC and I run lots of stuff off 110V DC. I like that and am committed to 110V DC, even though it is odd in todays solar market.
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Old April 13th, 2011, 08:59 PM
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Steve Q Steve Q is offline
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I have done some research into solar and I have a single panel. Hope to add another this summer. As I understand it, newer solar arrays are wired in series and it is not uncommon to have over 100 Volt DC output from the array. There are charge controllers that are designed to handle this. http://www.aeesolar.com/catalog/prod..._SEC_XW150.htm
Kinda pricy!! Maybe there are cheaper ones.

110VDC is pretty dangerous, so I don't think you should try to adapt something that is not specifically designed for this purpose. You will probably need to find a "contactor" rated for 150VDC. Something like this: http://www.casadelgato.com/KUEP-3D55-12

You can then use an IP switch to control the 12-24V supply to the contactor. I use this approach to control my 220VAC electric baseboard heaters. Works great.

Steve Q

Last edited by Steve Q; April 14th, 2011 at 10:27 AM.
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Old April 13th, 2011, 11:58 PM
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BraveSirRobbin BraveSirRobbin is offline
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Hi Steve;

I believe the OP wants an output from the charge controller to be 110 volts (you are right, that input to the one you listed can handle over 100 volts from the solar cells, but the output can not).

I guess I'm not sure why the 'commitment' has to be that high of a DC voltage. The new charge controllers, especially the MPPT technology, gives a much more effecient charge to the battery and is better for their long term life IMO (basically the relay is creating an older 'shunt' style controller, and that's if it's monitoring battery voltage as a feedback).

I'm not a solar expert, but have dabbled in that technology for remote weather station power (although it was just 12 volt system).
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  #8  
Old April 19th, 2011, 09:01 PM
Ricky Ricky is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by zap View Post
Not sure if disconnecting totaly would be wise could cause over heating of the cells, re-routing to a dump load might be wiser.

Webbase DC relays could be hard to find.
Maybe use an old style Ford starter relay and the http://www.aviosys.com/9223k.html)
http://www.controlbyweb.com/webrela/...FaRl7Aod0mDhDA
to trigger it
Thanks, but links not working for me. I can find Aviosys device but not the other Ford starter relay...

Last edited by Ricky; April 19th, 2011 at 09:42 PM.
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  #9  
Old April 19th, 2011, 09:07 PM
Ricky Ricky is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Steve Q View Post
I have done some research into solar and I have a single panel. Hope to add another this summer. As I understand it, newer solar arrays are wired in series and it is not uncommon to have over 100 Volt DC output from the array. There are charge controllers that are designed to handle this. http://www.aeesolar.com/catalog/prod..._SEC_XW150.htm
Kinda pricy!! Maybe there are cheaper ones.

110VDC is pretty dangerous, so I don't think you should try to adapt something that is not specifically designed for this purpose. You will probably need to find a "contactor" rated for 150VDC. Something like this: http://www.casadelgato.com/KUEP-3D55-12

You can then use an IP switch to control the 12-24V supply to the contactor. I use this approach to control my 220VAC electric baseboard heaters. Works great.

Steve Q
Yes BraveSirRobbin is right I want output to be 110V DC. I have a 110V bank of batteries that I am charging. It seems there is a controller that will do this http://www.midnitesolar.com/productP...CatName=Charge.

BraveSirRobbin asked why I'm commited to 110V DC. Like I said I have lived this way for 30 years. I have lots of 110V DC appliances in house. Any 110V AC device with a universal motor works better on 110V DC so long as switch is DC rated. I use lots of such devices in my home. Have 110V AC light bulbs which have lasted 20 years on DC since they are not turning off and on 60 times a second. I also have a 110V DC wind machine, but that is another story...

Last edited by Ricky; April 20th, 2011 at 12:17 PM.
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