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    HEPA suggestions

    So I've been thinking about some portable hepa-filter-fans for around the house. Has anyone got something they really really like and might recommend for this purpose? Not that our air is super bad but the wife does much better with cleaner air - allergies, etc.

    #2
    As far as I know this one is the best outside of permanently installed solutions: https://www.amazon.com/Blueair-503-H.../dp/B002A9JHBW The price there is pretty bad though. You can get them for around $400 usually.
    Originally posted by rprade
    There is no rhyme or reason to the anarchy a defective Z-Wave device can cause

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      #3
      Here utilize a Trion air cleaner from about 12 years ago with two sets of filters. I replaced a Trion air bear filter with an advertisment for the Trion air cleaner.

      Thinking back then paid around $500 for it. Initially purchased 3 sets of filters for it and would wash them outside. I then went to using the dishwasher for the filters (low on the WAF). I do replace the charcoal filters after 2-3 cleanings.

      It is a Trion HE2000 in place today.

      [ATTACH]62583[/ATTACH]

      Last update of AC compressor / chiller (just two weeks ago) HVAC person told me about updating to a HEPA solution.

      What would you recommend as a replacement HEPA type of air cleaner? Or should I continue to utilize the Trion HE2000? It has been problem free here.

      I do leave my HVAC fan on 24/7 winter or summer. I only change the thermostat value to 68 during the winter and 72 during the summer and it is kept on hold.
      - Pete

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        #4
        I usually recommend these when people are looking for whole house air filtration: http://www.supplyhouse.com/Filtratio...lters-13210000
        Originally posted by rprade
        There is no rhyme or reason to the anarchy a defective Z-Wave device can cause

        Comment


          #5
          Thank you Colin.

          Right now change the filters from the front of the Trion device.

          I pull the cover off and the filters are on both sides of the electronic air cleaners.

          How does this work with the filter boxes in the link?
          - Pete

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            #6
            The Fantech filters are accessible from the top. It is a 3 stage system. The first is a coarse particulate filter. The second is an activated charcoal MERV 13 cartridge and the final cartridge is the HEPA filter. I believe the recommended service life of the HEPA cartridge is 2 - 5 years but the other two are lower and, of course depend on the roughness of the service duty.

            That all being said, I usually steer people (in heating dominated climates) to go big or go home, do it right the first time and install an HRV with one of these things on the inlet: http://www.supplyhouse.com/Fantech-F...-Filter-6-Duct MERV 13 should be more than enough when combined with fresh outdoor air. In a cooling dominated climate I would recommend an ERV with the same filter on the inlet. I just live in a cold area so I have only installed ERVs in huge commercial projects where air leakage is absolutely through the roof, no measure of air sealing with make a difference and low winter humidity is a concern. Think 100 yr. old college dorms and the like.
            Attached Files
            Originally posted by rprade
            There is no rhyme or reason to the anarchy a defective Z-Wave device can cause

            Comment


              #7
              Thank you Colin.

              Yes currently replace the two (four) filters once a month here summer or winter.

              Would the HEPA filter then be a drop in replacing the Trion Air cleaner?
              - Pete

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                #8
                This one took me a bit as I never deal with that kind of gear. What you have is an inline filter and you should probably keep it. I wouldn't upgrade it though. HEPA filtration creates at lot of friction which has a marked effect on air flow. I'd keep what you have an install one of the Fantech units with it. You'd punch a holes in the return plenum to the input of the Fantech and a few feet further down punch another hole for the output of the fantech. Does that make sense? I'm probably not making any sense. I'll dig up a diagram of some sort. Basically all of your air is moving through your current filter. Fine. It is cheap and can catch all of the day to day BS that goes through your HVAC ductwork. But if you really want to HEPA filter your air you either need dedicated ductwork or you need a way to piggyback a HEPA filter off of what you've already got going.
                Originally posted by rprade
                There is no rhyme or reason to the anarchy a defective Z-Wave device can cause

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                  #9
                  OK. Here's an example. You don't have to directly attach it to the return plenum though. It could be done with flex-duct (If done properly! Most people mangle flex-duct) or something similar.

                  Hopefully I didn't upload that screenshot of my STD test results by accident. :/


                  Totally in the clear for the record. Because all of the ladies are reading this forum looking for a mate?
                  Attached Files
                  Last edited by S-F; July 31, 2017, 08:01 PM.
                  Originally posted by rprade
                  There is no rhyme or reason to the anarchy a defective Z-Wave device can cause

                  Comment


                    #10
                    Ahh...thank-you Colin...

                    yes current configuration is that:

                    1 - the Electronic air cleaner is between the return duct and the furnace
                    2 - there is also a whole house humidifier (Aprilaire) on the back side of the supply.
                    3 - the humistat control is on the return air side.

                    Over the years and switching over to the HAI Omnistat early version and newer version installed a supplemental relay board above the furnace motherboard with it's own 24VAC power supply (due to early power stealing of first thermostat). The furnace itself is around 15 years old but MFG of the furnace was around 1999. Recently new chiller was installed in the front of the supply and HVAC (tin cutting a bit) remove the front, removed old chiller and replaced it with new chiller.

                    A few years back I was going to take the humidistat wiring to the thermostat and HVAC installer / friend told me to leave the control on the return air duct.

                    The thermostat (wife's dad was an HVAC person (RIP) and she was always was told NEVER to touch the thermostat). That said basically these years she has basal body temperature issues - which is common for her age - such that the house is kept cool year around (heat and cooling are always hard set to 72 - and humidity levels kept between 35-38%).
                    Last edited by Pete; August 1, 2017, 08:05 AM.
                    - Pete

                    Auto mator
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