www.homeseer.com    
 

Go Back   HomeSeer Message Board > HomeSeer International Forums and User Groups > International Forums & All User Groups > International User Groups > UK/Europe

UK/Europe Discussions relating to the use of HomeSeer in the UK and Europe.

Reply
 
Thread Tools Display Modes
  #21  
Old September 4th, 2012, 11:51 AM
Jhhbe Jhhbe is offline
Seer
 
Join Date: Sep 2010
Location: Europe
Posts: 13
hi fellow country man,

I stand corrected - I was looking for info on Arduino as HS webclient - read only half the text and jumped to the wrong conclusion...

But then again I was only one letter off

Jhh
Reply With Quote
  #22  
Old March 13th, 2013, 09:22 AM
Endymion
Guest
 
Posts: n/a
Quote:
Originally Posted by Mac Gyver View Post


A few pictures of what it looks like (also have some pics of the cheap solution I use for detecting when the blind is open or close as well as the window itself, for anyone interested):
I'm interested by your solution.
Reply With Quote
  #23  
Old March 17th, 2013, 12:07 PM
Mac Gyver Mac Gyver is offline
Seer Deluxe
 
Join Date: Nov 2002
Location: Belgium
Posts: 160
Quote:
Originally Posted by Endymion View Post
I'm interested by your solution.
Ok, then here it is:

I simply used a DS10 for detection of window position with the DS10 on the top of the frame and the magnet on the window.
Then, as the DS10 has a second sensor available by replacing the jumper on the internal terminals by a cable to the second sensor, I used this to hook a wire along the frame to a Reed sensor glued to the end of the blind guide.
I glued the magnet to the end of the blind itself.

That way, the main sensor of the DS10 give the status of the Velux window and the secondary sensor the status of the blind.

Regards,

Yves.
Attached Images
   
Reply With Quote
  #24  
Old June 5th, 2013, 03:49 PM
pmikesell
Guest
 
Posts: n/a
This is great. I'm looking to do something similar. It is a bummer about having to cannibalize an entire velux remote though.

Here are two options for io-homecontrol transceivers:
- ADF7022
- SX1232

Sadly, there are no io-homecontrol related programming guides - they say you have to be an "io-homecontrol member" to get the information, whatever that means. Has anybody tried contacting io-homecontrol, Analog Devices, or Semtech about this information?
Reply With Quote
  #25  
Old June 7th, 2013, 07:13 PM
pmikesell
Guest
 
Posts: n/a
Also - Mac Gyver - you clearly know a lot more about EE that me. I have a question about your connection to the board from the remote control.

I get what you're describing with using the NPN transistor in open collector to do the voltage conversion from the 5v arduino output to the 3.3V remote buttons. How come you didn't put a pull-up resistor between the button connection and the collector? Is it because this just happens to be stable enough as is, or is there some way to know ahead of time that it wouldn't be needed in a circuit like this?

Sorry for the sorta newb question.
Reply With Quote
  #26  
Old June 9th, 2013, 05:13 AM
Mac Gyver Mac Gyver is offline
Seer Deluxe
 
Join Date: Nov 2002
Location: Belgium
Posts: 160
Quote:
Originally Posted by pmikesell View Post
This is great. I'm looking to do something similar. It is a bummer about having to cannibalize an entire velux remote though.
Well, yes of course, I don't remember the price I paid for this additional remote as I had it included in the quote from the blind, but it sure didn't break the bank.

Quote:
Sadly, there are no io-homecontrol related programming guides - they say you have to be an "io-homecontrol member" to get the information, whatever that means. Has anybody tried contacting io-homecontrol, Analog Devices, or Semtech about this information?
When I saw this back when I designed this hack, I didn't even try to contact them because I knew already by experience that you have either a membership fee or you have to buy at least 1000 chips to start with. Large companies do have a "free engineering sample" policy though.
Besides, this project took me a few hours an was up and running the same week-end I had the opportunity to start it, so I guess you have to factor that against the weeks or months it would take to get the documents, the chips, and develop the code to drive them.
As a 50+ person I learned to have a pragmatic approach to these things
Reply With Quote
  #27  
Old June 9th, 2013, 05:36 AM
Mac Gyver Mac Gyver is offline
Seer Deluxe
 
Join Date: Nov 2002
Location: Belgium
Posts: 160
Quote:
Originally Posted by pmikesell View Post
Also - Mac Gyver - you clearly know a lot more about EE that me. I have a question about your connection to the board from the remote control.

I get what you're describing with using the NPN transistor in open collector to do the voltage conversion from the 5v arduino output to the 3.3V remote buttons. How come you didn't put a pull-up resistor between the button connection and the collector? Is it because this just happens to be stable enough as is, or is there some way to know ahead of time that it wouldn't be needed in a circuit like this?

Sorry for the sorta newb question.
To the contrary, its a very legitimate question.
But you are asking this because you see it at a pure electronic level.
In that case, indeed a pull-up resistor would be needed to insure that an inherently high-z input would remain at high level and low-z to avoid noise triggering.
But remember we are dealing with a remote control here where we are merely replacing the physical buttons switches by transistors.
So we can obviously assume that the manufacturer of the remote has already taken care of that because an open switch is definitely even higher-z than an unbiased transistor, so we don't need to do it twice.
Pull-up can be done several ways, either by adding an external resistor, or by using the internal pull-up most micro-controllers are providing these days.
It is just a matter of setting the appropriate bit in the i/o configuration register to tell the micro-controller to add default pull-up or not.
That's why, on many circuits you'll come across, you may be fooled in believing that the designer forgot to care about pull-ups and that it could result in instable behavior, where in fact everything is being taken care of inside the chip.
The only case where you might be inclined to use external resistors (which I sometimes do) is when the internal pull-ups tend to add to much current drain for coin battery operated designs. In these cases you try to select the highest value possible before loosing stability and RF noise immunity.

Hope this helps,

Yves.
Reply With Quote
  #28  
Old November 27th, 2013, 03:20 PM
C4Vette
Guest
 
Posts: n/a
Type of remote

Very nice job Mac Gyver!
Just for this I joined this forum and maybe will become a homeseer user

One question though: do you know what model/type the remote is? I can't imagine it is the same as I received with my CVP roof window. Mine has a LCD and I think more buttons than yours. For buying a donor I'm looking for the cheapest one available.

Groeten uit Nederland
Reply With Quote
  #29  
Old November 29th, 2013, 07:51 AM
Mac Gyver Mac Gyver is offline
Seer Deluxe
 
Join Date: Nov 2002
Location: Belgium
Posts: 160
C4vette,

I just ordered a second remote from the Velux blind supplier.
It is actually the same as the original that came with the blind and is the individual remote without display.

I guess the one you have is the programmable one where you can manage separate windows, blinds or groups of them.

Unfortunately, I can't find the reference of this remote at the moment (no indication on the shell), I will have to dig into my invoices later.

But I join the pictures of the model.

Met vriendelijke groeten uit België.

Yves.
Attached Images
  
Reply With Quote
  #30  
Old November 21st, 2014, 11:46 AM
sota
Guest
 
Posts: n/a
Sorry for reactivating an old thread, but this would appear to be the solution to a problem I have been trying to solve for some time. I have two Velux blinds that use the same io-homecontrol protocol and have the same remote. I would like to use your solution and am about to order all the parts. But first, I have a couple of questions....

1. As I have two blinds, would it be possible to use one Arduino Ethernet to connect to the two remote controllers?
2. The Arduino Ethernet with POE is out of stock and seems to have been replaced by the Ethernet-Shield R3 with POE Module. Will this work OK?

Thanks,
Pat Rooney
Reply With Quote
  #31  
Old February 12th, 2018, 02:52 PM
pyspilf's Avatar
pyspilf pyspilf is offline
Seer Deluxe
 
Join Date: Nov 2007
Location: Spain
Posts: 385
My turn to re-revive this thread... :-)

I actually have 10 windows and just requested a quote to install solar motors for the rollers. The quote includes 10 remotes, apparently each with its own frequency (or code)

Now we have the z-uno board available (I have already installed one for controlling my garage doors) and it works quite nicely with HS...

Does one need a separate remote for every window to open up and connect to the arduino? Wondering if 10 is doable on a single board...

Would make for a rather large enclosure... LOL
__________________
HS3 Pro Edition 3.0.0.409| Plug-Ins Enabled: Sonos 3.1.0.22, RFXCOM 30.0.0.36, X10 3.0.0.36, IPThermostat 3.4.5.0, Pushover 3P 0.0.0.37, Blue-Iris 3.1.1.24385, Z-Wave 3.0.1.162, BLML2HS 2.0.28.0 | Win 7 32-bit | Intel Atom D2550 @ 1.86GHz 4GB RAM
Reply With Quote
Reply

Bookmarks

Thread Tools
Display Modes

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is On

Forum Jump


All times are GMT -4. The time now is 01:56 PM.


Copyright HomeSeer Technologies, LLC