UPB Control of Pool Light

[Jim Doolittle]

After many years of living with having to flip a breaker (GFCI!) to turn on the under water pool light, I decided to put a switch on the wall of the pool shed. Much safer and easier.

After I found out that my UPB signal is still strong at the pool's subpanel, I was thinking about adding UPB I/O control but then I realized I could also control the under water pool light. I could also dim it for "mood lighting" (in my case it is more likely to be "not-in-the-mood" lighting - just kidding!). I am not sure of the type and quality of bulb. Hard to read it under water through the protective glass.

Do you guys think this is a good idea? Will it shorten the life of the bulb? I sure would hate to mess with replacing the bulb because I would have to drain a lot of water and I am afraid of not getting a good seal. Bulb has not been changed in at least 10 years (probably only used about 20 hours a year if that).

[nightwalker]

At least so far, it's been my expeience that bulbs are lasting longer using the fade on capabilities of automated units like UPB and others.

[anogee]

I don't think it will shortn the life, and if it does, it will give you an excuse to switch to one of those new LED pool lights.

[pete@malibubeach.com]

In all likelihood it a 300 or 500 watt incandescent. My pool has a 500 and spa has a 300. A UPB switch should work fine.

Pete

[Jim Doolittle]

Great! Now I need to order a UPB switch. Almost tempted to pull one out of a least used area but I just realized that where I got 'em we use 'em.

[Jim Doolittle]

Wow! I need to look. If it is 500W, that would explain the electric meter sounding like the little disk was going to fly off its spindle (hmm...if it did would that mean free electricity ).

[Rene]

Sorry to jump in, but light bulbs in the pool and spa in my house are 12 volts with a transformer and you run the risk of overheating and/or damaging both the UPB switch and/or transformer if your pool uses one.

Also, I just had to replace both of the light bulbs (after 10 years) and the fixtures can be brought out of the pool without disconnecting nor opening them and then you replace the light bulbs outside, still a pain as it is difficult to make sure that they are sealed properly, but at least you do not have to drain any water from the pool.

Hope this helps.

Rene

[Jim Doolittle]

Rene,

Pool light could be 12V. There is an electrical box coming up out of the concrete surrounding the pool. I suppose it could be a transformer.

However, I quick search of inground pool lights showed most to be 300W or 500W 120V. They show them encased as you mentioned.

I could open the box and check it out to confirm. I could also dive under one more time and see if I can see anything on the bulb itself. Last time I checked, I thought I could not see through the glass dome.

[Rene]

Jim,

It sound that like you do have 120 VAC lights.

The "can" where the pool lightbulb goes comes with a preattached sealed (heavy duty 3 conductor neoprene covered) wire which runs all the way to that junction box, and that point it connects with wire nuts to regular household wire. If you ever have to replace the pool light fixture, you will replace the cable all of the way to that junction box.

After reading your description one more time and since you "flip the breaker (gfic)" it sound as you do have a 120 vac light. I too had a GFIC on my pool light in the old house, which I tested very often, as that will prevent an accident if the lightbulb can were to leak.

The building code changed in this area around 15 - 20 years ago, and now all pools must have low voltage lights, as it reduces the risk of accidents.

Rene

[pete@malibubeach.com]

The building code changed in this area around 15 - 20 years ago, and now all pools must have low voltage lights, as it reduces the risk of accidents.

Rene

A couple of things:
Not all building codes require low voltage lights; that's why there are still many 110V fixtures when you search for pool lights on the web. There are very different NEC rules for installing 110V lights. Generally easy to spot 110V because they must go directly to a water tight sealed box, prior to going to the electrical panel. This box must be some minimum distance away from and some height above the pool (maybe 5 feet away and 18 inches above).

Also, 110 volt units can generally be removed from the pool and serviced on the deck. As Rene says, if you must replace the fixture, you must replace the wiring all the way to that sealed box. But, if it was installed correctly, there should be sufficient extra wire in the cavity behind the fixture that you can bring the entire fixture up onto the deck and get into the bulb. Just make sure it is well sealed with its rubber gasket when you put it back together. Also, do not turn it on out of water. This was a warning label on the new one we installed a couple years ago---I assume it is because they run very hot and need the water for cooling.

I used to control mine with an X-10 dimmer switch and never had a problem (didn't dim them very often, if ever). I never moved them to UPB: instead, they are now controlled through my pool controller which does not allow them to dim.

Pete

[Rene]

Pete,

Down here the 12 volts lights also have a junction box before going to the electrical panel, at least that is the way my house and my neighbors are wired and the panel is less than 5 feet from the specially made and fed from the bottom junction box.

I also believe that all lights regardless if they are 12 or 120 volts and installed to code, need to have the extra length of wire inside the enclosure to allow replacing the bulb outside of the pool without having to drain it.

Rene