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    Aeon Nano Dimmer

    I have two of these now installed to replace my aeon micro dimmers. These are way better, no flicker and supports trailing/leading edge. Have tested on multiple dimmable LED/CFL and halogen and all work where I used to get flicker on the micro dimmer.

    The only thing I can't get working is the power usage meter results (watts/volts etc). The child devices are created but it never gets updated.

    Currently running on zwave .116. I tried the .120 trial version but that loses the zwave tab. I tried setting parameter 80 to various settings but it made no difference.

    #2
    Wow that is cool that someone finally designed a Z-wave dimmer that works with both trailing and leading edge. That seems like the right way to do it. It should work with all the random bulbs out there. I bet these sell well. All the wizzy control features in the world don't matter if your lights flicker...

    I would consider using these if there is a way to do local dimming at the switch. It looks like their Touch Panel product is designed for that but I don't think it is out yet for the U.S. Have you tried these Nano Dimmer's with their Touch Panel product (possibly available in your country)?

    Thanks for sharing your experience.

    Comment


      #3
      I've not used the nano's but I do have the aoetec micro dimmers which I use a Cooper 5 button scene controller to manage. The cooper will dim the load up or down by pressing the corresponding scene button.
      HS4 Pro on Shuttle NC10U, Win10; Z-NET
      Number of Devices: 1005
      Number of Events: 293

      Plug-Ins: BLLock, DirecTv, EasyTrigger, Honeywell WiFi Thermostat, Marquis monoprice Amp, MeiHarmonyHub, PHLocation2, Pushover 3P, UltraM1G3, rnbWeather, Worx Landroid, Z-Wave

      External applications: Homebridge-homeseer, Geofency, EgiGeoZone.

      Comment


        #4
        How do you set the 'last dim level' so the lights will come on to this level after being off?

        Comment


          #5
          My preference is the load comes on full each time so I have mine set to 'on'. But you can set a scene to a specific level; 255 is 'on to last level'
          HS4 Pro on Shuttle NC10U, Win10; Z-NET
          Number of Devices: 1005
          Number of Events: 293

          Plug-Ins: BLLock, DirecTv, EasyTrigger, Honeywell WiFi Thermostat, Marquis monoprice Amp, MeiHarmonyHub, PHLocation2, Pushover 3P, UltraM1G3, rnbWeather, Worx Landroid, Z-Wave

          External applications: Homebridge-homeseer, Geofency, EgiGeoZone.

          Comment


            #6
            They work fine for dimming at the switch, you just need to use a momentary switch. For me I've installed Clipsal Saturn switches. If you press once it will toggle off or last setting else hold in the button to increase/dim.

            In Homeseer it comes up with 2 switching devices, a binary switch for pure on/off and a multi level switch.

            It also has two devices for heat alert and overload alert along with the usual power meter ones.

            Comment


              #7
              Those Clipsal Saturn switches look nice. It appears your set-up is 100% hardwired if I understand.

              Is it correct that:

              1) The Nano Dimmer detects how long the momentary switch is being pressed and translates this into the current Z-Wave scene setting.

              2) When a button is pressed, the Nano Dimmer directly controls the light load without transmitting or receiving a single Z-Wave packet.

              3) When a button is pressed, the Nano Dimmer emits a Z-Wave instant status packet so HS immediately knows the new state.

              Comment


                #8
                2) When a button is pressed, the Nano Dimmer directly controls the light load without transmitting or receiving a single Z-Wave packet.

                Yes correct. The dimming occurs in real time, not just when you take your finger off.

                If you dim and press the button again briefly it will turn off, if you press again briefly it will return to the last dim setting. Hold the button for it to increase in brightness.

                3) When a button is pressed, the Nano Dimmer emits a Z-Wave instant status packet so HS immediately knows the new state

                Just did a quick test and It doesn't appear to. Homeseer didn't appear to register any changes made by using the button. If you set the device to poll then it does register the changes. There are some settings around what notifications it sends based on external switch, but so far hasn't made much difference, but by default it doesn't appear to send it

                Comment


                  #9
                  I don't know if the nano is the same. But under the zwave settings for the micro you can set "Notification: enabled" which makes it an instant status
                  HS4 Pro on Shuttle NC10U, Win10; Z-NET
                  Number of Devices: 1005
                  Number of Events: 293

                  Plug-Ins: BLLock, DirecTv, EasyTrigger, Honeywell WiFi Thermostat, Marquis monoprice Amp, MeiHarmonyHub, PHLocation2, Pushover 3P, UltraM1G3, rnbWeather, Worx Landroid, Z-Wave

                  External applications: Homebridge-homeseer, Geofency, EgiGeoZone.

                  Comment


                    #10
                    Challenges with NANO related to Switch numbers and wattage

                    To all,

                    I am a relative noobie to the Homeseer community and am working to automate a variety of items in our house. I was very interested in the Aeotec NANO Dimmer because of the small size and flexibility.

                    I took quite a while to get a NANO but now that I have it, I have run into a challenge.
                    Goal: Automate lighting on our deck. There are five switches that manage a row of four lights on my deck. As I understand it, this configuration has two 3-way and three 4-way switches. Being somewhat timid when it comes to electrical wiring and not wanting to damage the NANO, I had a lengthy email exchange with them. The following was the last reply from AEOTEC.
                    ------
                    Is this a 4-way installation instead of a 3-way installation? If that is the case, could you tell me what the total distance between the 4 switches? The switches would need to handle low voltage, if the distance is too long its possible that the resistance of the wire would be too much for the low voltage requirement in the Nano Dimmer is outputting, it may not be able to see the switch changes if over 30ft, the longer the distance the harder it is to determine a signal change.

                    The switches from both ending sides need to be directly plugged into the Nano Dimmer, although there may be a chance you may be able to use a low voltage relay where you can keep the external switches on high voltage as a possible method of making this work.

                    Based on the diagram that you sent me, if it is wired this way, it will be difficult as it may need re-wiring since the AC Supply and Load wires are on opposite ends.

                    -

                    The best place for installation would most likely be where the AC Supply is present, but you'll need to find a way to move the HOT wire from the light bulb / Load to the first gangbox (the issue is that the load is directly connected to the last switch port).

                    Although there may be a better way that we could make this work, but it may require some time for me to converse it with our engineering team. This may free up 1 or 2 wires between each gangbox port.

                    There are 2 possible methods:
                    1. Install Nano dimmer closer to the Load, and bring AC Live power through each gangbox to the end. Use a relay to trigger the signal using a pulse/momentary signal.
                    2. Install Nano Dimmer closer to the source, and tie the first and last switch directly to the Nano Dimmer to trigger the low voltage signal (distance cannot be longer than 15 meters (or 45ft) for 90% success of trigger rate). You'll need to bring the Load live input wire to where the source is located.



                    If you think you can wire them in either way, I will confirm this with our engineering team before we get started.
                    -----

                    In the end, it does not seem that there is a simple and cost effective solution when you have more than 3 switches. The AEOTEC staff was very responsive and courteous but, recommendations that include significant re-wiring are not an option for us. Has anyone used the NANO or another product for a circuit with five switches?

                    Comment


                      #11
                      Originally posted by ShimmerNZ View Post
                      I have two of these now installed to replace my aeon micro dimmers. These are way better, no flicker and supports trailing/leading edge. Have tested on multiple dimmable LED/CFL and halogen and all work where I used to get flicker on the micro dimmer.

                      The only thing I can't get working is the power usage meter results (watts/volts etc). The child devices are created but it never gets updated.

                      Currently running on zwave .116. I tried the .120 trial version but that loses the zwave tab. I tried setting parameter 80 to various settings but it made no difference.
                      Did you ever get these working so they would report Watts, kW hours, Amps, Volts? I'm having the same issue. I tried removing and re-adding as secure but that did'nt change anything. Creates child devices but I dont get any data.

                      Comment

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