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I think I'm sold on UPB

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    I think I'm sold on UPB

    I have 7 lamp modules, 3 appliance modules and 4 wall switches (including a 3-way) installed and I'm really pleased with it all so far. I did have to install 3 phase-couplers in different branch panels to get everything working reliably (despite PCS and SA both telling me it's not necessary) but it all works very well now. The only negative about it so far is the cost but, as I've said many times, I'm willing to pay for 100% (or as near to it as I can get) reliability. It's also too soon to know how durable they're going to be. If I have to replace devices very often, I will not be a happy camper (especially wall switches).

    I love the way devices are configured. You install the new device, discover it with the UPStart software, and then set all the configuration options with the software. Once a device is initially discovered and becomes part of your network, you can easily change any option, any time, from your central computer. No need to go to each device. I experimented with Z-Wave and one thing I hated most about it is the cheesy way you have to go around with the handheld remote to "learn" each device and then transfer the contents of the remote to HS.

    The Simply Automated wall switches are really cool. Depending on the rocker style you choose, the switch can be effectively one, two, three or four switches. For example, I used the dual-rocker faceplate on switches in bedrooms. I programmed the rocker closest to the door to control the ceiling lights and the other rocker to control the lamps in the room! So, one switch can turn on the room lights or every lamp in the room (bye-bye table-top controllers!). But, the REALLY cool thing is that by just changing the faceplate and reprogramming the switch (with the computer software) you can make it into three switches or four switches. I decided that in some rooms I want to use three rockers. One will be for the overhead lights, one will be for ALL the lamps in the bedroom and adjoining bathroom and the third will be for just the bathroom lamp. So, if you want all the lamps on, you press one bottom rocker but if you want the bedroom lamps off and the bathroom lamp on 50%, you press the other bottom rocker. No need to replace the switch, just change faceplates!

    I think I'm a UPB convert. I'll slowly phase out all my X10 stuff and go 100% UPB.

    #2
    As a matter of fact, the rockers can be replaced with up to an 8 button keypad too. These are now finally in stock.
    Martin Custer

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      #3
      Wow what a turn around this was. It sounds like you got everything worked out though.
      💁‍♂️ Support & Customer Service 🙋‍♂️ Sales Questions 🛒 Shop HomeSeer Products

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        #4
        I've been impressed with everything about it from day one except for two things:

        1. It took some trial-and-error testing, and the purchase of three phase couplers (I'm actually only using two now) to get good signal strength throughout my house and shop. Once I figured out the right combination of breaker panels to put the couplers in, it's been working flawlessly. The lowest signal strength I get anywhere now is 10 and that's considered "good". Most of the devices (especially the hard-wired ones) get 30+.

        2. The rockers on some the SA switches have a "mushy" feel instead of clicking like they are supposed to. Turns out SA knows about this problem and has an updated replacement rocker. Martin sent me several new ones and they work perfectly. BTW, you can tell the new ones because they have a removeable protective blue film over the rocker. It's just to protect the rocker during installation and you peel it off when you get them installed. In fact, it's got spaces to write in the name of the switch, location, etc. It's designed for professional installers that configure all the switches before they go onsite. Anyway, if you have SA switches that don't "click" like they are supposed to, replace the rockers with the new versions and they will work much better.

        So, now that I've got those two problems resolved, I'm very happy with UPB. I've installed about $3,000 worth of it in my house and will be doing a lot more but at a slower pace! I also want to give it some time to be SURE it's stable and dependable before I spend a whole lot more money. For example, I want to be sure the switches don't "forget" their programming like X10 switches do. In fact, I had two switches in my shop this weekend that I could no longer control with X10 because they forget their addresses. Rather than reprogram them (for about the fourth time), it was easier to replace them with UPB.

        I have 7 lamp modules, 3 appliance modules and 4 wall switches (including a 3-way) installed ...
        BTW, I've installed a lot more since I made this post. 10 plug-in modules and 4 wall switches are NOT $3000!

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          #5
          Thanks for the write up DC. I've been eyeing UPB and now I'm motivated to purchase a few devices and give them a try.

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            #6
            Yes, if anyone has the older style rockers and they don't work, please call us and we'll send new ones.
            Martin Custer

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              #7
              Now, if ELK would just create a UBP version of their ELK9100 switch, I'd have all the type UPB switches I need.

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                #8
                I have found that the best way to use this switch is to hard-wire the control contacts to an Ocelot / Secu16. But, I agree, it would be great if Elk had a UPB version.

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                  #9
                  Anogee,

                  You could use one of these to control the ELK 9100 with UPB:

                  http://www.automatedoutlet.com/produ...cat=145&page=1

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                    #10
                    Rather pricey, but that should work. I have two ELK9100's so it looks like this would control both. I wonder if you can disable X-10 in the ELK9100's? I guess I could just reset them.

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                      #11
                      I couldn't find a way to disable X10 but I set it to require two consecutive X10 commands so the likelihood of it randomly receiving both is pretty small. Also, the hard-wired contacts override X10. In other words, when the contacts are closed the switch is off and cannot be turned on by X10. When the contacts are open, the switch is on but I supposed it could be turned off by X10 if it received the correct commands.

                      If you find a way to disable X10 completely, please let me know. Thanks.

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