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    #46
    Feature request.

    Problem: Many LED bulbs will not turn on, or will take a few seconds to turn on, when going from off to a very low dim level even though they will dim to that exact same level.

    Solution: Whenever a HS-WD100 state is changed from off to a value less than a set amount, should be programmable, drive the output to a higher level, should also be programmable, for at least one full AC cycle. This will give the LEDs electronics a chance to charge up.

    This option should have a parameter to turn it on or off.

    This is considerably different than having a minimum dim level option although they do complement each together.
    HomeSeer Version: HS3 Standard Edition 3.0.0.548
    Linux version: Linux auto 4.15.0-72-generic #81-Ubuntu SMP Tue Nov 26 12:20:02 UTC 2019 x86_64 x86_64 x86_64 GNU/Linux
    Number of Devices: 484 | Number of Events: 776

    Enabled Plug-Ins: 3.0.0.13: AirplaySpeak | 2.0.61.0: BLBackup
    3.0.0.70: EasyTrigger | 1.3.7006.42100: LiftMaster MyQ
    4.2.3.0: mcsMQTT | 3.0.0.53: PHLocation2 | 0.0.0.47: Pushover 3P
    3.0.0.16: RaspberryIO | 3.0.1.262: Z-Wave

    Z-Net version: 1.0.23 for Inclusion Nodes
    SmartStick+: 6.04 (ZDK 6.81.3) on Server

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      #47
      Originally posted by epimetheus View Post
      Can someone explain the actual meaning behind the step and timer values? I've played with them on GE switches before, but have never been able to make heads or tails of them. Why is it not a simple fade time setting in seconds?
      Step refers to the total number of increments from full off to full on (or vice versa). Timer is a value in milliseconds for each step.

      Therefore, with the setting below, it would take 2700 milliseconds (90 x 30 = 2700) or 2.7 seconds to dim up or down.

      Steps = 90
      Timer = 30

      You could also replicate the same dim time with these settings but, with fewer steps, the dimming would not be as smooth...

      Steps = 30
      Timer = 90

      If you choose the maximum steps and timer settings, it would take roughly 25 seconds to dim fully up or down (255 x 99 = 25,245 milliseconds)

      If you want the dimmer to dim up or down instantly, change to this and the operation will take just 1 millisecond.

      Steps = 1
      Timer = 1
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        #48
        Problem is we have to build around 3000 of them and we don't get many requests for black. Maybe if you are willing to pay a premium to cover some of the cost? Give us a call if interested.

        Originally posted by Vodden View Post
        A run of black devices would also be appreciated. I would change out every z-wave device in my house with these if I could get them in black. (40+). [emoji4]
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          #49
          Originally posted by scorp508 View Post
          I'd go for something like this as well. Our home has seen a couple additions/reconfigurations over the years before we purchased it. There are switches in locations that when originally built made perfect sense, but now that entrances and doors have been moved the locations are entirely confusing. For whatever reason the homeowners didn't have the wiring and switch locations updated when the additions took place.

          For example I have a switch for flood lights on the front of the house in the middle of a random hallway nowhere near a an existing entry door. When originally built that area was the mudroom next to a door. There are a few examples like that scattered through the home. Another type are switches next to ceiling lights that don't control them, they control some other light elsewhere. Everyone hits the switch nearest the ceiling light thinking they operate the light above them. Nope.


          I could spend a ton of time re-wiring things and extending lines with junction boxes in the attic or basement to make it all sensible again. I'd rather save hours of work having a device that looks/feels like a switch, but the paddle doesn't operate the local load. It turns into a remote controllable relay to keep operating the local load as I still need the ability to switch that load, but the paddle is independent so I can assign the most logically placed paddles to operate the nearest light.

          Maybe there's some electrical code that prohibits this type of operation, I don't know and it wouldn't surprise me as it could provide a false sense of safety to someone who doesn't know how the home operates before working on a nearby fixture.

          One way to handle this is to use a micro or nano dimmer in the electrical box. If your electrical box isn't deep enough wire the load directly in the box then put the micro/nano in the fixture. The wall dimmer is then configured to control the appropriate micro/nano that in turn controls the load.

          Only downside is it doubles your switch cost since you're buying both a zwave wall dimmer and a zwave micro/nano. As for code questions, I suspect this is acceptable but you could always consult a local electrician.
          HS4 Pro on Shuttle NC10U, Win10; Z-NET
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            #50
            Originally posted by rjh View Post
            Problem is we have to build around 3000 of them and we don't get many requests for black. Maybe if you are willing to pay a premium to cover some of the cost? Give us a call if interested.
            Actually I don't think you'd have to. I've done molding runs and typically doing color changes during a run adds minimal costs.

            Normally they start your long run on the primary color then once enough has been made they purge the hopper and put in the next color. You repeat the process for each color till done. It should take no more than about 5 to 10 minutes to do the color change. I've personally seen a color change done in much less than 5 minutes.

            The biggest issue is stocking the raw plastic in the colors needed. Black should be easy but some of the other colors might not be.

            Check with your molding house about the cost to do a multiple color run. I suspect you'll fine the additional cost isn't that much.
            HomeSeer Version: HS3 Standard Edition 3.0.0.548
            Linux version: Linux auto 4.15.0-72-generic #81-Ubuntu SMP Tue Nov 26 12:20:02 UTC 2019 x86_64 x86_64 x86_64 GNU/Linux
            Number of Devices: 484 | Number of Events: 776

            Enabled Plug-Ins: 3.0.0.13: AirplaySpeak | 2.0.61.0: BLBackup
            3.0.0.70: EasyTrigger | 1.3.7006.42100: LiftMaster MyQ
            4.2.3.0: mcsMQTT | 3.0.0.53: PHLocation2 | 0.0.0.47: Pushover 3P
            3.0.0.16: RaspberryIO | 3.0.1.262: Z-Wave

            Z-Net version: 1.0.23 for Inclusion Nodes
            SmartStick+: 6.04 (ZDK 6.81.3) on Server

            Comment


              #51
              Is there any chance that we'll see the Multilevel Switch v4 command class supported? It adds a "target value" field to the SWITCH_MULTILEVEL_REPORT command that would be helpful for libraries that query the device after a set command to determine its new value.

              Currently, if something like OpenZWave sends a set command and then immediately queries for the new dimmer value, the result will be some transitional value, assuming the device is configured with a non-instant remote ramp rate. The real-world result in Home Assistant is that when I click somewhere on a dimmer slider, the light will start to dim or brighten to the level requested, but the actual slider component will snap back close to the original value.

              This can be worked around by either using instant remote ramping or polling the device until the value stops changing. But V4 of the command class solves this problem nicely by providing both a current and target value in the report.

              Comment


                #52
                Modular for change converting table lamps to Z-Wave

                Although one can add a plug in dimmer and then plug a table lamp into it this is a poor solution at best. I've never seen any good way to do local control and if someone leaves the lamp switch off the lamp is uncontrolable with Z-Wave.

                What is needed is a module that can be installed into a lamp. This module should have a touch interface which would make local control easy.
                HomeSeer Version: HS3 Standard Edition 3.0.0.548
                Linux version: Linux auto 4.15.0-72-generic #81-Ubuntu SMP Tue Nov 26 12:20:02 UTC 2019 x86_64 x86_64 x86_64 GNU/Linux
                Number of Devices: 484 | Number of Events: 776

                Enabled Plug-Ins: 3.0.0.13: AirplaySpeak | 2.0.61.0: BLBackup
                3.0.0.70: EasyTrigger | 1.3.7006.42100: LiftMaster MyQ
                4.2.3.0: mcsMQTT | 3.0.0.53: PHLocation2 | 0.0.0.47: Pushover 3P
                3.0.0.16: RaspberryIO | 3.0.1.262: Z-Wave

                Z-Net version: 1.0.23 for Inclusion Nodes
                SmartStick+: 6.04 (ZDK 6.81.3) on Server

                Comment


                  #53
                  Originally posted by Timon View Post
                  Although one can add a plug in dimmer and then plug a table lamp into it this is a poor solution at best. I've never seen any good way to do local control and if someone leaves the lamp switch off the lamp is uncontrolable with Z-Wave.



                  What is needed is a module that can be installed into a lamp. This module should have a touch interface which would make local control easy.


                  Installing an Aeon Labs micro-switch inside the lamp and wiring the switch to the switch input of the lamp would work. That would provide both local and z-wave control.

                  Comment


                    #54
                    Originally posted by Vodden View Post
                    Installing an Aeon Labs micro-switch inside the lamp and wiring the switch to the switch input of the lamp would work. That would provide both local and z-wave control.
                    HomeSeer Version: HS3 Standard Edition 3.0.0.548
                    Linux version: Linux auto 4.15.0-72-generic #81-Ubuntu SMP Tue Nov 26 12:20:02 UTC 2019 x86_64 x86_64 x86_64 GNU/Linux
                    Number of Devices: 484 | Number of Events: 776

                    Enabled Plug-Ins: 3.0.0.13: AirplaySpeak | 2.0.61.0: BLBackup
                    3.0.0.70: EasyTrigger | 1.3.7006.42100: LiftMaster MyQ
                    4.2.3.0: mcsMQTT | 3.0.0.53: PHLocation2 | 0.0.0.47: Pushover 3P
                    3.0.0.16: RaspberryIO | 3.0.1.262: Z-Wave

                    Z-Net version: 1.0.23 for Inclusion Nodes
                    SmartStick+: 6.04 (ZDK 6.81.3) on Server

                    Comment


                      #55
                      Product suggestion for ceiling fans w/lights

                      May I suggest a switch that can control both a ceiling fan and lights from the same switch and show up as two or more seperate z-wave devices like the smart power strip?

                      Doesn't have to be RGB like the awesome 200+ series but I'd love to be able to further automate my ceiling fan and lights and be able to dim the lights and have multiple fan speeds.

                      Older house with only two wires behind existing switch (hot and load), (I can add neutral with some simple wiring, no i'm not wiring neutral to ground).

                      Existing switch talks to a module mounted in the fan's canopy that individually controls lights and fan, and has multiple dim and speed settings. Right now I have a WS200+ behind it in the wiring that kills power to the entire switch (fan and lights).

                      I noticed a 200+ RGB fan controller in development but that one appears to only control a fan motor, and not any lights that may be also attached to the fan.

                      Comment


                        #56
                        The volume is not enough for us to produce such a switch, we would have to charge about $200 per switch!

                        Your best bet is to install a micro module in the fan and then control that via Z-Wave.

                        Originally posted by GreggSuter View Post
                        May I suggest a switch that can control both a ceiling fan and lights from the same switch and show up as two or more seperate z-wave devices like the smart power strip?

                        Doesn't have to be RGB like the awesome 200+ series but I'd love to be able to further automate my ceiling fan and lights and be able to dim the lights and have multiple fan speeds.

                        Older house with only two wires behind existing switch (hot and load), (I can add neutral with some simple wiring, no i'm not wiring neutral to ground).

                        Existing switch talks to a module mounted in the fan's canopy that individually controls lights and fan, and has multiple dim and speed settings. Right now I have a WS200+ behind it in the wiring that kills power to the entire switch (fan and lights).

                        I noticed a 200+ RGB fan controller in development but that one appears to only control a fan motor, and not any lights that may be also attached to the fan.
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                          #57
                          Originally posted by rjh View Post
                          The volume is not enough for us to produce such a switch, we would have to charge about $200 per switch!

                          I'd buy a one gang z-wave switch in a heartbeat for that cost if it controlled both the fan and lights. I'd prefer a combo of the FC200 and WS200 as I use Hue lights in our fan which a dimmer wouldn't work with.

                          That may sound ridiculous to you, but I have basically bought into having a full HomeSeer environment and expect devices we don't need as many of to cost more. I want everything to look and feel the same.

                          There are threads almost weekly on reddit.com/r/homeautomation with people looking for multi-switches in a single gang form factor. Usually for fans but not always. The annoyance of needing to replace a wall box with one which is +1 gang bigger, fix any drywall, paint it, etc... make a $200 switch (perhaps if it had a slightly longer warranty) a simple purchase decision for myself. Sure I currently only need one in the whole home, which is the same as needing a single water main cutoff that also costs more and there isn't much to those devices.



                          Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

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                            #58
                            I basically agree with adding a micro module, dual channel version with both fan and light would be best, but we still need a way to control it from a single gang switch. This is is why we need a multi-button controller with the same scene features as the 100/200 devices. So giving us a multi-button controller with a RGB status lights would be a good start.
                            HomeSeer Version: HS3 Standard Edition 3.0.0.548
                            Linux version: Linux auto 4.15.0-72-generic #81-Ubuntu SMP Tue Nov 26 12:20:02 UTC 2019 x86_64 x86_64 x86_64 GNU/Linux
                            Number of Devices: 484 | Number of Events: 776

                            Enabled Plug-Ins: 3.0.0.13: AirplaySpeak | 2.0.61.0: BLBackup
                            3.0.0.70: EasyTrigger | 1.3.7006.42100: LiftMaster MyQ
                            4.2.3.0: mcsMQTT | 3.0.0.53: PHLocation2 | 0.0.0.47: Pushover 3P
                            3.0.0.16: RaspberryIO | 3.0.1.262: Z-Wave

                            Z-Net version: 1.0.23 for Inclusion Nodes
                            SmartStick+: 6.04 (ZDK 6.81.3) on Server

                            Comment


                              #59
                              This is probably obvious, but just for those following the thread.

                              You could install a HS-WS200+ switch then use a single tap for the light and a double tap for the fan. HS would handle sending the proper commands to the micro switches.

                              Originally posted by Timon View Post
                              I basically agree with adding a micro module, dual channel version with both fan and light would be best, but we still need a way to control it from a single gang switch. This is is why we need a multi-button controller with the same scene features as the 100/200 devices. So giving us a multi-button controller with a RGB status lights would be a good start.
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                                #60
                                Originally posted by rjh View Post
                                This is probably obvious, but just for those following the thread.

                                You could install a HS-WS200+ switch then use a single tap for the light and a double tap for the fan. HS would handle sending the proper commands to the micro switches.
                                HomeSeer Version: HS3 Standard Edition 3.0.0.548
                                Linux version: Linux auto 4.15.0-72-generic #81-Ubuntu SMP Tue Nov 26 12:20:02 UTC 2019 x86_64 x86_64 x86_64 GNU/Linux
                                Number of Devices: 484 | Number of Events: 776

                                Enabled Plug-Ins: 3.0.0.13: AirplaySpeak | 2.0.61.0: BLBackup
                                3.0.0.70: EasyTrigger | 1.3.7006.42100: LiftMaster MyQ
                                4.2.3.0: mcsMQTT | 3.0.0.53: PHLocation2 | 0.0.0.47: Pushover 3P
                                3.0.0.16: RaspberryIO | 3.0.1.262: Z-Wave

                                Z-Net version: 1.0.23 for Inclusion Nodes
                                SmartStick+: 6.04 (ZDK 6.81.3) on Server

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