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    #16
    Yes I asked about purchasing a Cepstral Linux speech font. There was no mention of a free linux license.
    - Pete

    Auto mator
    Homeseer 3 Pro - 3.0.0.548 (Linux) - Ubuntu 18.04/W7e 64 bit Intel Haswell CPU 16Gb
    Homeseer Zee2 (Lite) - 3.0.0.548 (Linux) - Ubuntu 18.04/W7e - CherryTrail x5-Z8350 BeeLink 4Gb BT3 Pro
    HS4 Lite - Ubuntu 22.04 / Lenovo Tiny M900 / 32Gb Ram

    HS4 Pro - V4.1.18.1 - Ubuntu 22.04 / Lenova Tiny M900 / 32Gb Ram
    HSTouch on Intel tabletop tablets (Jogglers) - Asus AIO - Windows 11

    X10, UPB, Zigbee, ZWave and Wifi MQTT automation-Tasmota-Espurna. OmniPro 2, Russound zoned audio, Alexa, Cheaper RFID, W800 and Home Assistant

    Comment


      #17
      I'm interested in knowing how well the voice works for you - I gave up in trying to get decent TTS from Linux and instead run Win 10 under a VirtualBox VM on my Linux platform...

      BBB

      Comment


        #18
        Yeah here was testing for those wanting a Linux MS SAPI sounding voice.

        The voice sounded just fine comparing it to my collection of MS SAPI voice fonts (AT&T, Neospeech and Loquendo). I am fine with my current SAPI voice fonts.

        Folks running HS3 on Linux and using the HSTouch client will like a more natural voice coming their clients running on whatever because the HSTouch clients just play back a wav file of the tts generated on the mothership.

        Here do a Wintel VB on my Homeseer Ubuntu 16.04 server with four instances of speaker dot exe which goes out via the zoned audio system. The Windows tabletop HS3 clients all run the speaker client with MS SAPI with different voices and languages mostly to irritate my wife.
        - Pete

        Auto mator
        Homeseer 3 Pro - 3.0.0.548 (Linux) - Ubuntu 18.04/W7e 64 bit Intel Haswell CPU 16Gb
        Homeseer Zee2 (Lite) - 3.0.0.548 (Linux) - Ubuntu 18.04/W7e - CherryTrail x5-Z8350 BeeLink 4Gb BT3 Pro
        HS4 Lite - Ubuntu 22.04 / Lenovo Tiny M900 / 32Gb Ram

        HS4 Pro - V4.1.18.1 - Ubuntu 22.04 / Lenova Tiny M900 / 32Gb Ram
        HSTouch on Intel tabletop tablets (Jogglers) - Asus AIO - Windows 11

        X10, UPB, Zigbee, ZWave and Wifi MQTT automation-Tasmota-Espurna. OmniPro 2, Russound zoned audio, Alexa, Cheaper RFID, W800 and Home Assistant

        Comment


          #19
          1 - backed up HS3 to another computer running Ubuntu 18.04 64 bit - shut down Homeseer 3 on Pine64 2Gb computer
          2 - via command line:
          A -
          $ sudo apt update
          $ sudo apt upgrade
          $ sudo apt dist-upgrade
          $ sudo apt autoremove
          B -
          $ sudo apt install update-manager-core
          C -
          $ sudo do-release-upgrade -d

          Ubuntu will ask you a couple of questions about how you want to handle the upgrade, and it'll start off upgrading your system.

          Note: Writing this while attempting the upgrade. Not sure if it'll work yet.

          Last message from upgrade:

          Upgrade complete

          The upgrade has completed but there were errors during the upgrade
          process.

          Will reboot to see if it boots up using the microSD card.

          Worked and rebooted a few times updating Webmin and installing xRDP as this computer runs headless.

          Pine64:~# uname -a
          Linux ICS-Pine64 3.10.105-bsp-1.2-ayufan-77 #1 SMP PREEMPT Sun Jul 9 12:09:30 UTC 2017 aarch64 aarch64 aarch64 GNU/Linux

          Pine64:~# lsb_release -a
          LSB Version: core-9.20170808ubuntu1-noarch:security-9.20170808ubuntu1-noarch
          Distributor ID: Ubuntu
          Description: Ubuntu 18.04.1 LTS
          Release: 18.04
          Codename: bionic

          Pine64:~# mono -V
          Mono JIT compiler version 5.12.0.301 (tarball Wed Jul 25 16:57:14 UTC 2018)

          xRDP desktop for those interested.

          Disabled HS3 on transitional machine and enabled HS3 on Pine64 computer.

          Sunday July, 29. 2018 0737C

          Running HS3 fine at this time with update to Ubuntu 18.04
          Last edited by Pete; July 29, 2018, 07:38 AM.
          - Pete

          Auto mator
          Homeseer 3 Pro - 3.0.0.548 (Linux) - Ubuntu 18.04/W7e 64 bit Intel Haswell CPU 16Gb
          Homeseer Zee2 (Lite) - 3.0.0.548 (Linux) - Ubuntu 18.04/W7e - CherryTrail x5-Z8350 BeeLink 4Gb BT3 Pro
          HS4 Lite - Ubuntu 22.04 / Lenovo Tiny M900 / 32Gb Ram

          HS4 Pro - V4.1.18.1 - Ubuntu 22.04 / Lenova Tiny M900 / 32Gb Ram
          HSTouch on Intel tabletop tablets (Jogglers) - Asus AIO - Windows 11

          X10, UPB, Zigbee, ZWave and Wifi MQTT automation-Tasmota-Espurna. OmniPro 2, Russound zoned audio, Alexa, Cheaper RFID, W800 and Home Assistant

          Comment


            #20
            I am doing this vivo on the console rather than remotely using SSH like I did for the Pine64 2Gb computer.

            Previous to this have upgraded 3 laptops (16Gb) and desktop (32Gb) to Ubuntu 18.04 / Windows 10

            IE: been running these now for over a month and they are doing well.

            1 - shut down Oracle VB
            2 - shut down Homeseer 3

            3 - via terminal window
            4 - sudo su
            5 - sudo apt update && sudo apt dist-upgrade

            HS3Pro:/home/pete# sudo apt update && sudo apt dist-upgrade
            Calculating upgrade... Done
            0 upgraded, 0 newly installed, 0 to remove and 0 not upgraded.

            6 - sudo apt install update-manager-core

            update-manager-core is already the newest version (1:16.04.13).
            0 upgraded, 0 newly installed, 0 to remove and 0 not upgraded.

            7 - do-release-upgrade -d

            First attempt was fast and full of errors. Probably because I was using VNC to access the desktop.

            2nd attempt at update looks good so far. This was done on the desktop via a terminal session.

            This computer was updated from Ubuntu 14.04 to Ubuntu 16.04 a couple of years ago.

            Might purchase a new SSD (faster one) and install Ubuntu 18.04 on it replacing current SSD after this one is running.

            HS3Pro:~# lsb_release -a
            LSB Version: core-9.20170808ubuntu1-noarch:security-9.20170808ubuntu1-noarch
            Distributor ID: Ubuntu
            Description: Ubuntu 18.04.1 LTS
            Release: 18.04
            Codename: bionic

            HS3Pro:~# uname -a
            Linux ICS-HS3Pro 4.15.0-30-generic #32-Ubuntu SMP Thu Jul 26 17:42:43 UTC 2018 x86_64 x86_64 x86_64 GNU/Linux

            mono -V
            Mono JIT compiler version 5.14.0.177 (tarball Mon Aug 6 09:13:43 UTC 2018)
            Copyright (C) 2002-2014 Novell, Inc, Xamarin Inc and Contributors. www.mono-project.com

            Desktop changes with Ubuntu 18.04 had to be fixed. Really it was only the network manager and I rarely use the desktop.

            Homeseer 3 and Oracle Windows VB is working fine.

            Had an issue with a slow boot and reboot. This is a documented bug in Ubuntu 18.04.

            HS3Pro:~# systemd-analyze blame
            20.803s plymouth-quit-wait.service
            5.450s networking.service
            5.215s stunnel4.service
            2.497s webmin.service
            1.261s dev-sda2.device

            Still booting a bit slower than when running Ubuntu 16.04.

            Here is the system boot on the Pine64 - which is a bit slow using the microSD

            Pine64:~# systemd-analyze blame
            52.776s fstrim.service
            16.181s dev-mmcblk0p2.device
            13.455s systemd-fsck-root.service
            Last edited by Pete; August 9, 2018, 01:12 AM.
            - Pete

            Auto mator
            Homeseer 3 Pro - 3.0.0.548 (Linux) - Ubuntu 18.04/W7e 64 bit Intel Haswell CPU 16Gb
            Homeseer Zee2 (Lite) - 3.0.0.548 (Linux) - Ubuntu 18.04/W7e - CherryTrail x5-Z8350 BeeLink 4Gb BT3 Pro
            HS4 Lite - Ubuntu 22.04 / Lenovo Tiny M900 / 32Gb Ram

            HS4 Pro - V4.1.18.1 - Ubuntu 22.04 / Lenova Tiny M900 / 32Gb Ram
            HSTouch on Intel tabletop tablets (Jogglers) - Asus AIO - Windows 11

            X10, UPB, Zigbee, ZWave and Wifi MQTT automation-Tasmota-Espurna. OmniPro 2, Russound zoned audio, Alexa, Cheaper RFID, W800 and Home Assistant

            Comment


              #21
              So I notice that devices and scenes get out of sync pretty often with what's actually the case and I'd like to change their status in homeseer via scripting or events without firing off new events or sending any commands to devices.

              Here is an example:

              I have a scene called "morning wake-up lights" I trigger that a scene on, and it sends an insteon command that tells several lights to turn on over a few minutes time. Later when leaving for work I tell homeseer to turn off the bedroom lights (different scene)

              At this time I'd like to have homeseer know to set the status and value for the wake-up scene to off, but I don't any events or devices to respond to that...



              Another example:

              I have a device called "All Livingroom Lights" there is an event attached to that which will turn on or off all of the livingroom lights. If I turn off one light after that, I'd prefer homeseer not show that "All Livingroom Lights" is on when that's not in fact the case.


              Is this possible or am I being too fussy?



              Joe (zimmer62)

              BLSecurtiy, AC-RF2, RCS Serial Thermostats, RFXCOM SMarthome SwitchLinc, mcsXap, Global Cache GC100, SqueezeBox, TWA_ONKYOINTEGRA, BLLogMonitor, BLPlugins, BLRadar, BLSpeech, BLZLog.aspx, HSTouch (Windows, iPhone, iPod), USB Mimo touchscreens, VMWare Server, Vortexbox, Windows Home Server, MyMovies, Windows Media Center, X10, ZWave, and much much much more.

              Comment


                #22
                What happens when you change the value of a virtual device depends on the existence (of lack of) triggers and conditions that depend on that device value. I suspect most of what you are concerned about will not happen, but the easiest way to discover unexpected dependencies is to do some experimenting.
                Mike____________________________________________________________ __________________
                HS3 Pro Edition 3.0.0.548, NUC i3

                HW: Stargate | NX8e | CAV6.6 | Squeezebox | PCS | WGL 800RF | RFXCOM | Vantage Pro | Green-Eye | Edgeport/8 | Way2Call | Ecobee3 | EtherRain | Ubiquiti

                Comment


                  #23
                  PS. On the event page there is a drop down for 'Referencing Devices'. If you select the device you are concerned about, you can get a list of all the event s that reference it. That should give you a good idea of what will happen when the value of the device changes.
                  Mike____________________________________________________________ __________________
                  HS3 Pro Edition 3.0.0.548, NUC i3

                  HW: Stargate | NX8e | CAV6.6 | Squeezebox | PCS | WGL 800RF | RFXCOM | Vantage Pro | Green-Eye | Edgeport/8 | Way2Call | Ecobee3 | EtherRain | Ubiquiti

                  Comment


                    #24
                    15th of August, 2018

                    A standard update of Oracle Virtual box 5.2 today disabled the functioning of Oracle VB. This relating to old and new libraries. Tinkering with it for some 30 minutes of updating and clean up decided to remove Oracle Virtual box 5.2 and install standard release Oracle Virtual box and it is running with no issues. I did have similiar issues with updating Ubuntu 14.04 to Ubuntu 16.04 and Oracle a couple of years back. I keep writing that I am going to start from scratch here with endeavor and have not as Homeseer 3 Pro appears to be running just fine.

                    - Pete

                    Auto mator
                    Homeseer 3 Pro - 3.0.0.548 (Linux) - Ubuntu 18.04/W7e 64 bit Intel Haswell CPU 16Gb
                    Homeseer Zee2 (Lite) - 3.0.0.548 (Linux) - Ubuntu 18.04/W7e - CherryTrail x5-Z8350 BeeLink 4Gb BT3 Pro
                    HS4 Lite - Ubuntu 22.04 / Lenovo Tiny M900 / 32Gb Ram

                    HS4 Pro - V4.1.18.1 - Ubuntu 22.04 / Lenova Tiny M900 / 32Gb Ram
                    HSTouch on Intel tabletop tablets (Jogglers) - Asus AIO - Windows 11

                    X10, UPB, Zigbee, ZWave and Wifi MQTT automation-Tasmota-Espurna. OmniPro 2, Russound zoned audio, Alexa, Cheaper RFID, W800 and Home Assistant

                    Comment


                      #25
                      I do specifically have triggers around some of these things.

                      It's not always virtual devices too...

                      The Insteon plugin creates devices for the groups. Lets say I have one call "bedroom lights for off" that also turns off the fan, and have on called "bedroom lights for on" that doesn't turn on the fan. Both of these in my opinion should be off if anything is out of sync with what is actually true. Turning them off will turn off all of that stuff, which is not the desired effect. Throw in weekday morning lights group, the bathroom group, the master suite group that includes the bathroom and it becomes a mess to look at the devices and see what the actual status is...






                      Joe (zimmer62)

                      BLSecurtiy, AC-RF2, RCS Serial Thermostats, RFXCOM SMarthome SwitchLinc, mcsXap, Global Cache GC100, SqueezeBox, TWA_ONKYOINTEGRA, BLLogMonitor, BLPlugins, BLRadar, BLSpeech, BLZLog.aspx, HSTouch (Windows, iPhone, iPod), USB Mimo touchscreens, VMWare Server, Vortexbox, Windows Home Server, MyMovies, Windows Media Center, X10, ZWave, and much much much more.

                      Comment


                        #26
                        Originally posted by zimmer62 View Post
                        I do specifically have triggers around some of these things. It's not always virtual devices too...

                        The Insteon plugin creates devices for the groups. Lets say I have one call "bedroom lights for off" that also turns off the fan, and have on called "bedroom lights for on" that doesn't turn on the fan. Both of these in my opinion should be off if anything is out of sync with what is actually true. Turning them off will turn off all of that stuff, which is not the desired effect. Throw in weekday morning lights group, the bathroom group, the master suite group that includes the bathroom and it becomes a mess to look at the devices and see what the actual status is...
                        If the devices are created by a plug-in, then you cannot control how they behave, but there is a solution. That is, ignore the devices that you do not control and that provide unuseful, misleading or ambiguous information. Hide them from the device view you use. Create your own virtual devices that respond the way you want them to, and use those instead.

                        Mike____________________________________________________________ __________________
                        HS3 Pro Edition 3.0.0.548, NUC i3

                        HW: Stargate | NX8e | CAV6.6 | Squeezebox | PCS | WGL 800RF | RFXCOM | Vantage Pro | Green-Eye | Edgeport/8 | Way2Call | Ecobee3 | EtherRain | Ubiquiti

                        Comment


                          #27
                          Just an FYI relating to doing this for the first time in the Kitchen. Over the years have tested LED lamps mounted in the garage kitchen cabinets (supply cabinets) using 120 VAC hockey puck style LED lamps and basement workshop cabinets using illuminated tubes. Probably adding LEDs over and under the kitchen cabinets. Redoing post here as implementation and hardware changed a bit.

                          Hardware List:

                          1 - small LED 120VAC to 12VDC power supply. I chose the following one because it fit inside of a 4" X 4" X 1.5" metal electrical box.
                          These are priced under $10 on Amazon and Ebay. These are available as 1 AMP to around 2 AMP same size.

                          Click image for larger version  Name:	LED-Driver.jpg Views:	1 Size:	44.8 KB ID:	1244145

                          2 - Leviton Decora style two paddle 120VAC 15 AMP switch. ~ $10.00 at your local big box hardware store.

                          Click image for larger version  Name:	LevitonDecora.jpg Views:	1 Size:	18.6 KB ID:	1244146
                          3 - LED light strip on a reel. Pick your color and density. Here used:

                          LightingWill LED Strip Lights 16.4Ft Warm White SMD2835 300LEDs 3000K-3500K 72LM/Ft 12V DC for ~ $8.00 (Amazon).
                          This one comes with a connected barrel connector and double stick tape which you peel off to fix to diffuser.

                          Click image for larger version  Name:	light-strip.jpg Views:	1 Size:	84.0 KB ID:	1244147

                          4 - LED mounting bracket with diffuser - will utilize these with either two of the above LED lamps. Here chose:
                          Muzata 5 PACK 1M/3.3ft Aluminum LED Channel for LED Strip Lights, Easy to Cut, U-Shape Aluminum Profile with All Accessories for $16.99 on Amazon. Easy to cut and join pieces using included mounting brackets. Cut Aluminum with hack saw.

                          Click image for larger version  Name:	LED bracket.jpg Views:	1 Size:	37.9 KB ID:	1241944

                          5 - plastic project case - Hammond 1591BSBK ABS Project Box Black - 4.4" x 2.4" x 1.1" (112mm x 62mm x 27mm) - $6.51 on Amazon.

                          Click image for larger version  Name:	projectbox.jpg Views:	1 Size:	33.9 KB ID:	1244149

                          6 - Dimmer module * Optional

                          Hiletgo 3pcs DC12-24V 8Amp 0%-100% PWM Dimming Controller for LED Lights on Amazon for $7.99.
                          Took it apart here and used the dimmer circuit board and potentiometer.

                          Click image for larger version  Name:	dimmer.jpg Views:	1 Size:	85.7 KB ID:	1244148

                          7 - Sonoff SV - Geekworm DC 5V-24V 80MHz 160MHz 32-bit WiFi Wireless Switch w/ Safe Voltage Module $12.49 Amazon

                          Click image for larger version  Name:	sonoffsv.jpg Views:	1 Size:	85.8 KB ID:	1244150

                          8 - 14 guage solid core black and white electrical cable and 16 guage stranded black and red automotive style cable.

                          Total approximate cost = $72.00 purchasing from Amazon. You will have spare LEDs and diffusers when done depending on what you use for said project.

                          Assembly

                          Note this is working here with metal electrical boxes and conduit in the midwest near Chicago.

                          1 - ran new black and white electrical cable from ceiling light box to wall switch. ~ 15 feet? There were two wires in switch box. I used one of the two wires to pull the black and white wires from end to end such that I had 4 wires in conduit. Black, white, orange and blue.

                          2 - With the original switch removed connected the 12VDC 16 guage black and red wires to LED transformer and passed them through a hole in the metal switch box. Drilled a 1" hole in the drywall right under the wooden kitchen cabinet edge. Used some solid core cable to fish the low voltage wire to the top hole. Stripped and capped the two wires.

                          3 - Connected the 120VAC black wire to new Leviton decora switch. Connected Leviton switch paddle terminal #2 to LED transformer 120VAC in. Connected white neutral wire to LED transformer 120VAC in. Connected switch wire (blue) to Leviton terminal paddle #1.

                          4 - tested Leviton Decora double paddle switch to overhead lamp and LED transformer. For the transformer output used a VOM to see the 12VDC power out.

                          5 - put LED transformer in box and mounted Leviton Decora switch to mudplate and installed Decora switch cover.

                          6 - Wired / soldered 12 VDC 18 guage black and red wires to Sonoff SV ( 2 in and 2 out). Soldered 4 JTAG posts to Sonoff SV (3.3 VDC, Ground, RX and TX).

                          7 - Connected JTAG pins to TTL/USB programmer and laptop running Ubuntu 18.04. Used ESP easy to program Sonoff SV via command line.
                          8 - configured Sonoff SV to speak Mosquitto and talk to the HS3 plugin mcsMQTT.

                          9 - configured Sonoff SV to default relay on when powering up device.

                          10 - configured an mcsMQTT variable to toggle on and off relay.

                          11 - assembled project box with Sonoff SV and dimmer module. Drilled hole in cover for potentiometer. Hot melt glued everything in place.
                          Note position of two circuit boards allow easy access to JTAG pins just in case you need to reprogram legacy style versus OTA style.

                          Click image for larger version  Name:	combopicture.jpg Views:	1 Size:	80.7 KB ID:	1244151

                          Click image for larger version  Name:	onandoff.jpg Views:	1 Size:	23.0 KB ID:	1244158

                          DISCLAIMER:

                          You must accept that You and You Alone are Responsible for your safety and safety of others in any endeavor in which you engage. While the hardware list is provided in hopes that you build your own system, You are Responsible for verifying its accuracy and applicability to your project. You are Responsible for knowing your limitations of knowledge and experience. If you do any work with “main power” such as 120 or 240 VAC power wiring and you are leary of working with electrical you should consult a Licensed Electrician.

                          Knowledgebase:

                          1 - know how to utilize a soldering tool and solder and a VOM.
                          2 - know how to upload firmware to a Sonoff SV
                          3 - navigate and configure 3rd party firmware on the Sonoff SV
                          Last edited by Pete; August 28, 2018, 09:59 AM.
                          - Pete

                          Auto mator
                          Homeseer 3 Pro - 3.0.0.548 (Linux) - Ubuntu 18.04/W7e 64 bit Intel Haswell CPU 16Gb
                          Homeseer Zee2 (Lite) - 3.0.0.548 (Linux) - Ubuntu 18.04/W7e - CherryTrail x5-Z8350 BeeLink 4Gb BT3 Pro
                          HS4 Lite - Ubuntu 22.04 / Lenovo Tiny M900 / 32Gb Ram

                          HS4 Pro - V4.1.18.1 - Ubuntu 22.04 / Lenova Tiny M900 / 32Gb Ram
                          HSTouch on Intel tabletop tablets (Jogglers) - Asus AIO - Windows 11

                          X10, UPB, Zigbee, ZWave and Wifi MQTT automation-Tasmota-Espurna. OmniPro 2, Russound zoned audio, Alexa, Cheaper RFID, W800 and Home Assistant

                          Comment


                            #28
                            What you'll need for this project:Click image for larger version  Name:	HS-FLS100-Front-300.png Views:	1 Size:	78.3 KB ID:	1249748

                            Replacing "Sunset"

                            It's easy to turn lights on when it's dark using the "SUNSET" trigger and "Lights on at sunset" is probably the single most common event in all of home automation. However, SUNSET is a time trigger and darkness doesn't already happen at exactly the same time relative to sunset. Also, it doesn't take into account cloudy, rainy or overcast conditions. I recently retired my "sunset" event after I installed one of our new Z-Wave floodlight sensors. If you'd like to do that, here's what to do:
                            1. The default Luminance Report Interval for the sensor is 10 minutes. Change this to 3 minutes to get more frequent Luminance updates. From HS3, click on the root device of the sensor, then click the Z-Wave tab and then click Settings to reveal these options. Enter 3 in the value field and click the Set button at the left.
                              Click image for larger version  Name:	Luminance-Report.jpg Views:	2 Size:	30.7 KB ID:	1249695
                              ​​
                            2. At this point, you could simply create an event that triggers when the Luminance value dips below 200 (or something similar) and turns on your lights. However, that trigger could occur on a cloudy afternoon (or morning for that matter!) so it makes sense to add some conditions to the event to help reduce false triggering. The method below works well for me.
                            3. Create a virtual device Outside Light Level with these values. If you're not familiar with virtual devices, check out this video.
                              Click image for larger version  Name:	Outside-Light-Level-Device.jpg Views:	1 Size:	13.2 KB ID:	1249696
                              ​​
                            4. Then create events to change the value of the virtual device based on Luminance and time of day. I created these events
                              Click image for larger version  Name:	Outside-Light-Level-Events.jpg Views:	1 Size:	26.7 KB ID:	1249697
                              ​​
                              The Dawn event details look like this:
                              Click image for larger version  Name:	Dawn-Events.jpg Views:	1 Size:	37.1 KB ID:	1249698
                              ​​
                              Day looks like this:
                              Click image for larger version  Name:	Day-Event.jpg Views:	1 Size:	25.9 KB ID:	1249699
                              ​​
                              Dusk looks like this:
                              Click image for larger version  Name:	Dusk-Event.jpg Views:	1 Size:	42.7 KB ID:	1249700
                              ​​
                              Night looks like this:
                              Click image for larger version  Name:	Night-Events.jpg Views:	1 Size:	23.3 KB ID:	1249701
                              ​​
                            5. After you populate these events, you'll need to create one more event to actually turn lights on when this virtual device becomes (and stays) Dusk. In my case, I constructed the trigger to base this on TWO Luminance reporting cycles (virtual device is Dusk for more than 3 minutes.
                              Click image for larger version  Name:	Lights-on-events.jpg Views:	1 Size:	31.7 KB ID:	1249702
                              ​​
                            6. Obviously, you'll also need to create an event (if you don't already have one) to turn these lights off later in the night.
                            That's about it. I've been using this method for several months now and it's been working extremely well for me. Give it a shot!
                            Last edited by macromark; September 26, 2018, 02:36 PM.
                            💁‍♂️ Support & Customer Service 🙋‍♂️ Sales Questions 🛒 Shop HomeSeer Products

                            Comment


                            • RRR
                              RRR commented
                              Editing a comment
                              For what its worth... I couldn't recreated the above on HS4 alone, due to missing fields while creating the events. More specifically when creating the Day event. Thanks to Jon00 I was able to use the HS3 events builder page. Once I created it on the old events page it showed up on HS4 as well. Maybe was just me or my system, I don't know but thought I would mention it.

                              One other thought for what is worth... coming from the HAI/Leviton Omni world we used counters a lot to hold state/status. You don't always need to create a virtual device, unless you want to visually see it's icon/status. If its only going to be used programmatically then you can use counters as well.

                              Thanks for the article, very helpful in extending my investment...

                            #29
                            This is an overview of the GDO SonOff WiFi basic project.

                            Note: This project / endeavor involves soldering, hardware mods, updating firmware on a SonOff WiFi basic and use of HS3 mcsMQTT plugin

                            Doing a quickie summary here as new Chamberlain MyQ GDO is using security 2.0 + which is different than older Liftmaster GDO.

                            This Chamberlain GDO is an upgrade from the Liftmaster and Craftsman of old. Never connected or used the MyQ stuff. Personally I liked the Liftmaster and Craftman GDO's the best. Two weeks ago the Logic board went out on it. The GDO is over a year old and the logic board is only covered for 1 year. No local dealers would sell me a logic board due to saftey installation reasons (???). Ordered one from Chamberlain. The security 2.0 + stuff was more difficult to pair with the Homelink GDO buttons built in to the automobiles. The 2 wire GDO button is digital now rather than analog.

                            Hardware list for one GDO.

                            - SonOff basic WiFi module upgraded to current level of mcsTasmota via Linux serial JTAG port
                            - 2 reed sensors for door open and closed sensors
                            - DS18S20 old AAG 1-wire sensor + 4.7k Ohm pull up resistor
                            - Liftmaster push button power control model # 883LMW
                            - 22/4 and 22/2 alarm cable

                            Hardware modifications for SonOff basic Wifi module

                            - cut trace for 120VAC solenoid switch such that it functions as a low voltage relay
                            - wired GPIO #4
                            - connected GPIO #3 (serial IN) to #57 Door Closed reed switch
                            - connected GPIO #4 (aux GPIO) to #56 Door Open reed switch
                            - connected GPIO #14 to DS18S20 AAG temperature sensor (3.3 VDC, Ground and DQ GPIO #14 - NOTE: pull up resistor is between DQ and 3.3VDC)

                            Changes: Removed DS18B20 temperature board and heatsink and went to an external DS18S20 temperature sensor.

                            Click image for larger version  Name:	Sonoff-ComboD.jpg Views:	1 Size:	128.3 KB ID:	1257757

                            Removed Arduino DS18B20 temperature sensor and connected external temperature sensor.

                            Click image for larger version  Name:	SonOff - GDOStuff.jpg Views:	2 Size:	133.7 KB ID:	1257758

                            Click image for larger version  Name:	GDO1.jpg Views:	2 Size:	78.3 KB ID:	1257759

                            Hardware modifications to Liftmaster push button control model # 883LMW

                            - Tiny button that can be glued on to the SonOff WiFi basic device
                            - two wires are control wires to GDO (white and red)
                            - two wires soldered for push button on to circuit board (blue and black)
                            - programmed button removing current Chamberlain door button 2 wires. (Easy - just connect two wires and press button until it opens garage door).

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                            HS3 Mosquitto Variables and button

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                            Finished pictures of GDO connections above GDO.

                            xxxxxxxx
                            Last edited by Pete; November 7, 2018, 11:16 AM.
                            - Pete

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                            Comment


                            • Pete
                              Pete commented
                              Editing a comment
                              Hello Michael,

                              Updated mcsMQTT plugin a couple of days ago and lost all of my settings. The events are there but no longer work. It's been fine now for about 2 years. I went to looking at the help document and it is different than the original one. Can I please have a copy of the original one from 2018 so that I can reconfigure the GDO open/close/intermediate sensors, GDO button and temperature sensor.

                              I have updated the mcsMQTT plugin before and never saw this issue.

                              I have switched back to using the hard wired alarm panel sensors to drive my GDO events.



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