USB to Serial for X10 - What tty #

[mworsnop]

I used to used a USB to serial adapter on my windows PC to connect to the X10 TI103

I now have the Zee and wondering if I have the same adapter on the Linux box what the tty # would be? I havent tried it yet, thought I would ask first.

[Pete]

It would be ttyUSB0 for the first one.

That said a couple of adapters can be dynamically named such that you can do a manual assignment of the USB to Serial device if you want.

Here utilize Digi Edgeport 8's. It's been many years now. These are labeled as serial port 1-8 and these numbers match the ttyUSBXX numbers.

You can add rules to statically assign a USB to Serial device in the following manner.

1 - find out what's on ttyUSB

dmesg | grep ttyUSB

2 - list all attributes of the device

udevadm info --name=/dev/ttyUSBx --attribute-walk

(with your device number(s) instead of x, of course). Pick out a unique identifier set, eg idVendor + idProduct. You may also need SerialNumber if you have more than one device with the same idVendor and idProduct. SerialNumbers ought to be unique for each device.

3 - add a udev rules

Edit a new file ==> /etc/udev/rules.d/10-local.rules

4 - ACTION=="add", ATTRS{idVendor}=="0403", ATTRS{idProduct}=="6001", SYMLINK+="my_uart"

5 - load new rule

sudo udevadm trigger

6 - Verify what happened:

ls -l /dev/your_device_name

will show what ttyUSB number the symlink went to. If it's /dev/ttyUSB1, then verify who owns that and to which group it belongs:

ls -l /dev/ttyUSB1

AND for fun type:

udevadm test -a -p $(udevadm info -q path -n /dev/your_device_name)

[mworsnop]

It would be ttyUSB0 for the first one.

That said a couple of adapters can be dynamically named such that you can do a manual assignment of the USB to Serial device if you want.

Here utilize Digi Edgeport 8's. It's been many years now. These are labeled as serial port 1-8 and these numbers match the ttyUSBXX numbers.

You can add rules to statically assign a USB to Serial device in the following manner.

1 - find out what's on ttyUSB

dmesg | grep ttyUSB

2 - list all attributes of the device

udevadm info --name=/dev/ttyUSBx --attribute-walk

(with your device number(s) instead of x, of course). Pick out a unique identifier set, eg idVendor + idProduct. You may also need SerialNumber if you have more than one device with the same idVendor and idProduct. SerialNumbers ought to be unique for each device.

3 - add a udev rules

Edit a new file ==> /etc/udev/rules.d/10-local.rules

4 - ACTION=="add", ATTRS{idVendor}=="0403", ATTRS{idProduct}=="6001", SYMLINK+="my_uart"

5 - load new rule

sudo udevadm trigger

6 - Verify what happened:

ls -l /dev/your_device_name

will show what ttyUSB number the symlink went to. If it's /dev/ttyUSB1, then verify who owns that and to which group it belongs:

ls -l /dev/ttyUSB1

AND for fun type:

udevadm test -a -p $(udevadm info -q path -n /dev/your_device_name)

Thank you so very much!!

[mworsnop]

All of Pete's info worked and I can see the serial adapter on USB1

But the TI103 is not responding to HS3.

FATAL - Unable to communicate with CM11

The TI103 was working on the windows PC before I moved to the Linux Hometroller.

Is there some way to test this outside of HS3?

[Pete]

You have to wear a linux hat when doing this relating to serial communications. The rules are basic where you can only have one application talk to one serial port. If you have two applications or same application trying to talk to one serial port it will not work. I think that is the issue right now you are having. Best way to check is in the ini file for X10. The ports are all defined there too.

The above defined USB1 should work identically to the ttyUSB0 or ttyUSB1 device such that you have to test ttyUSB0 or ttyUSB1 first one at a time. Homeseer 3 should recognize both just fine. Reboot too and do not start the plugin until after Homeseer 3 is running as right now your configuration with the CM11 or TI102 is talking to two of the same devices and can cause issues. In fact whenever playing with this you should not have HS running nor the plugin that is trying to connect to the serial port (or USB to Serial port).

Yes and depending on OS you are running. I have always done this with Homeseer 2 and today Homeseer 3.

For windows you can run old automation software made to work originally on Windows 95 if you want (there is one or many that are free today).

In linux you can do the same using Bottlerocket or look at my Zoneminder posts relating to the use of X10 for zoneminder...you can test all of it via command line and SSH. There is also python scripts which talk to x10 if you want to install those.

The same rules apply to talking to a serial port in both types of OS.

Unrelated / related here using my old RPi2 as a slave device - slave hardware controller to the mothership. I am running a cron job which reads the 1-wire network connection via a USB to serial device. I am just writing a text file of temperature and humidity readings such that I can share these numbers to two HS3 boxes. When I added Homeseer plugins (remote) Z-Wave, X10 and UPB I had to uniquely identify each of the USB to serial adapters on the RPi2 as I didn't want to utilize a Digi Edgeport cuz the footprint was too big for the attic.

[mworsnop]

I guess my TI103 is dead. I tried bottlerocket and nothing

I have a gadget that I used to use to speak X10 signals so I plugged that in and get nothing there either.

[Pete]

Check the TI103 on a windows box (old one if you want) to validate it dysfunction. It is rare that it just dies as it is a simple piece of hardware. Turn on debug for the plugin and check the ini file settings.

I have a gadget that I used to use to speak X10 signals so I plugged that in and get nothing there either.

Well then go to your CM11A. Here it works fine with my HS box (using an original old XTB amp with it).

Here still utilize CM11A's, TW-523's and over the last few years have added XTB stuff from Jeff Volp. I also have an TI X10 Homeseer device but haven't used it since the early 2000's. Wireless X10 is only via the W800 today with is an autonomous serial connection. I utilize those old X10 wireless pads for all sorts of things today and they work fine. IE: I shut off the chatty kathy garage door open events when working in the garage and have the garage door open. I test my irrigation zones via a wireless palm pad outside in vivo; always worked fine for me.

I do X10 today on my OmniPro 2 panel via Jeff Volp's dual phased TW523 and it works fine today for Christmas lighting. My OP2 panel talks X10, UPB, Zigbee and ZWave just fine today.

[mworsnop]

I only have a handful of gadgets left on X10 anyway. Guess not worth messing with it,

The old windows box died and thats the reason I moved to the Hometroller

Just wish the Insteon or ZWave switches were cheaper!

[Pete]

Here migrated (from the late 1970's) my in wall light switches to Insteon from X10 then UPB from Insteon.

X10 works better for me today than it did in the 1970's. Automated switches / prices today are much higher than the old X10 switches. I paid $200 plus for some UPB switches a few years back. (IE: PCS UPB switches). The average price though was around $50 to $150 per switch over the years which was really low on the WAF trying to justify.

If you are going to go with Z-Wave you should be able to find a deal on bulk purchases of switches or go baby steps and purchase one at a time maybe. If DIYing this wiring up a new Automated switch is a bit different than the old X10 switches and is a learning curve of sorts. IE: my UPB switches all use a load, neutral, ground, switch wires. Original guru gc electrician here wired every box this way plus used conduit which let me add stuff to my electric. You can practice wire using the simple X10 HV wiring and still play with Homeseer if you get this going.

What I am saying above is not to let one bad TI103 stop your automation learning process with Homeseer. Use your old CM11A. IE: I am guessing that you still have X10 switches in the walls eh ? (handful of switches).

Googling Ebay see GE Z-Wave switches for some $20 or so. I do not know anything about them but $20 something a switch is cheap.

Googling the internet found a $10 Leviton zwave switch...

[mworsnop]

Here migrated (from the late 1970's) my in wall light switches to Insteon from X10 then UPB from Insteon.

X10 works better for me today than it did in the 1970's. Automated switches / prices today are much higher than the old X10 switches. I paid $200 plus for some UPB switches a few years back. (IE: PCS UPB switches). The average price though was around $50 to $150 per switch over the years which was really low on the WAF trying to justify.

If you are going to go with Z-Wave you should be able to find a deal on bulk purchases of switches or go baby steps and purchase one at a time maybe. If DIYing this wiring up a new Automated switch is a bit different than the old X10 switches and is a learning curve of sorts. IE: my UPB switches all use a load, neutral, ground, switch wires. Original guru gc electrician here wired every box this way plus used conduit which let me add stuff to my electric. You can practice wire using the simple X10 HV wiring and still play with Homeseer if you get this going.

What I am saying above is not to let one bad TI103 stop your automation learning process with Homeseer. Use your old CM11A. IE: I am guessing that you still have X10 switches in the walls eh ? (handful of switches).

Googling Ebay see GE Z-Wave switches for some $20 or so. I do not know anything about them but $20 something a switch is cheap.

Googling the internet found a $10 Leviton zwave switch...

Hi Pete, Do you know what brand/model I need to get for USB to Serial on the Zee S2 Linux box?

[mfisher]

All of Pete's info worked and I can see the serial adapter on USB1

But the TI103 is not responding to HS3.

FATAL - Unable to communicate with CM11

The TI103 was working on the windows PC before I moved to the Linux Hometroller.

Is there some way to test this outside of HS3?

You'll need to configure the X10 plugin to talk to your Ti103. From your log entries we can see that the plugin thinks you have a CM11A connected, which is the default startup state and will not work with a Ti103.

On the 'Manage Plugins' page, simply click on 'X10' (name of the plugin) to access the config page, then select Ti103 as the interface. The plugin should restart and attempt to connect using the Ti103 serial communications protocol.

Please let us know what happens!

PS: You might consider posting X10 related questions in the HomeSeer X10 Plugin forum as they will get much more attention.

[mworsnop]

You'll need to configure the X10 plugin to talk to your Ti103. From your log entries we can see that the plugin thinks you have a CM11A connected, which is the default startup state and will not work with a Ti103.

On the 'Manage Plugins' page, simply click on 'X10' (name of the plugin) to access the config page, then select Ti103 as the interface. The plugin should restart and attempt to connect using the Ti103 serial communications protocol.

Please let us know what happens!

PS: You might consider posting X10 related questions in the HomeSeer X10 Plugin forum as they will get much more attention.

That was the problem. Sorry I had no idea that needed to be configured.

Now I am back to the old problem of the signals not reaching some of the X10 switches. I have an expensive bridge too and it indicates all is well. Oh well.

Thank you for the help!

[mworsnop]

Here migrated (from the late 1970's) my in wall light switches to Insteon from X10 then UPB from Insteon.

X10 works better for me today than it did in the 1970's. Automated switches / prices today are much higher than the old X10 switches. I paid $200 plus for some UPB switches a few years back. (IE: PCS UPB switches). The average price though was around $50 to $150 per switch over the years which was really low on the WAF trying to justify.

If you are going to go with Z-Wave you should be able to find a deal on bulk purchases of switches or go baby steps and purchase one at a time maybe. If DIYing this wiring up a new Automated switch is a bit different than the old X10 switches and is a learning curve of sorts. IE: my UPB switches all use a load, neutral, ground, switch wires. Original guru gc electrician here wired every box this way plus used conduit which let me add stuff to my electric. You can practice wire using the simple X10 HV wiring and still play with Homeseer if you get this going.

What I am saying above is not to let one bad TI103 stop your automation learning process with Homeseer. Use your old CM11A. IE: I am guessing that you still have X10 switches in the walls eh ? (handful of switches).

Googling Ebay see GE Z-Wave switches for some $20 or so. I do not know anything about them but $20 something a switch is cheap.

Googling the internet found a $10 Leviton zwave switch...

Pete that switch doesnt appear to be ZWave. Wish it was!

[Uncle Michael]

Now I am back to the old problem of the signals not reaching some of the X10 switches. I have an expensive bridge too and it indicates all is well. Oh well.

Have you tried an XTB-IIR? It will repeat and amplify your X10 signal.