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Pass-through rating of HS-WD/WS100+ ?

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    Pass-through rating of HS-WD/WS100+ ?

    Due to the neutral and line terminals having two holes each I have some switches feeding other switches in the same box to cut down on the size of the wire bundles similar to how you'd wire receptacles to power other downstream receptacles. One of my 3-gang boxes on a 15A circuit first feeds a HS-WS100+ that then feeds another HS-WS100+ in the same box, which finally feeds a dumb 15A paddle switch in the box.

    The documentation isn't clear (or I didn't see it) one what the terminals are rated for with regards to feeding additional devices. I know a 15A receptacle wired the same way can handle anything another downstream receptacle on the same circuit pulls through it.

    Is the max load for the switches the max load through the internal relay, and if so what is the rated value if you want to put the device in line with additional ones? Are we limited to 15A or could you pass 20A through as long as the controlled load is within the max load parameters?

    #2
    I'm following along for this but I'll throw my non electrician 2 cents in. I wire mine using both of the wholes (one in one out) and I feel that putting them together is not wiring the switch inline and same as wire nutting the them together outside. Even if the switch was open and the relay inside was removed they are connected to the same metal contacts.

    Think of this one any other circuit. How about a garage with 20amp outlet plugs installed? Can you not have more then input wires on a outlet plug to keep the 20amp rating?

    Anyways I don't know any legals on this so I'll be following along for a true professional opinion.

    Comment


      #3
      Originally posted by integlikewhoa View Post
      I'm following along for this but I'll throw my non electrician 2 cents in. I wire mine using both of the wholes (one in one out) and I feel that putting them together is not wiring the switch inline and same as wire nutting the them together outside. Even if the switch was open and the relay inside was removed they are connected to the same metal contacts.

      This is exactly how I look at it as well, but I'm not willing to sacrifice a switch to take a look at its innards. I would assume the plate that compresses the leads into place is capable of carrying the circuit's rated load, but would like to officially know. I'd also like to know if it is capable of carrying a 15A or 20A circuit.


      The switches show a max resistive load of 1800W, which on a 120V single-phase circuit is 15A. I'd never run a 15A circuit that high but that figure is just under 80% load on a 120V single-phase 20A circuit which makes sense.


      I stayed in a Holiday Inn last night and hope someone with better electrical understanding slaps me straight if necessary.

      Comment


        #4
        Bump.

        Comment


          #5
          Bump


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            #6
            I still say your looking for an anwser that doesn't exist. I might have missed it but i googled several switches to see if they have load and "passthrew" ratings and found no such think. Also wire nuts and but connectors and most other types of splices dont give an amp rating. Also since the screw on the side of the switches is a much larger guage then wire i cant see it lowering the rating.

            A loose or poor connection is more to make a difference then anything.

            Another note is that you talk about the push in holes and on a 15amp switch i have never seen 12guage or 20amp wire fit into those holes. So that would mean that 15amp switch that can only handle wire guage of 15amp will be 15amp.

            Using side screws i use 20amp.

            Comment


              #7
              "The NEC recognizes that whether a device is stamped 15a or 20a, it refers to the NEMA configuration and not the internals of the device, which is the same whether rated for 15 or 20 amps."

              Ref.
              Last edited by ewkearns; June 25, 2017, 01:55 PM. Reason: Correction to Attribution
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                #8
                Originally posted by ewkearns View Post
                "The NEC recognizes that whether a device is stamped 15a or 20a, it refers to the NEMA configuration and not the internals of the device, which is the same whether rated for 15 or 20 amps."

                Ref.
                Perfect, thank you!


                Originally posted by integlikewhoa View Post
                I still say your looking for an anwser that doesn't exist. I might have missed it but i googled several switches to see if they have load and "passthrew" ratings and found no such think. Also wire nuts and but connectors and most other types of splices dont give an amp rating. Also since the screw on the side of the switches is a much larger guage then wire i cant see it lowering the rating.

                A loose or poor connection is more to make a difference then anything.

                Another note is that you talk about the push in holes and on a 15amp switch i have never seen 12guage or 20amp wire fit into those holes. So that would mean that 15amp switch that can only handle wire guage of 15amp will be 15amp.

                Using side screws i use 20amp.

                It looks like we got one in a roundabout way, but you're right on the push holes never letting bigger than 14Ga in. My last home was mostly 12Ga everywhere so I was used to always using side terminals. I've kind of forgotten this home is all 14Ga I'm working with so the circuit itself isn't going to be 20A to begin with.

                The question stems from some upcoming garage work I may be doing which includes upgrading the circuit feeding it to a dedicated 20A rather than a shared 15A with the basement. If I end up with a couple two-gang boxes sharing HS switches and outlets I'll make sure to feed the switch from the outlet and not vice versa since the outlets will be carrying 12Ga between them.

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