Announcement

Collapse
No announcement yet.

3-Way Wiring Confirmation

Collapse
X
 
  • Filter
  • Time
  • Show
Clear All
new posts

    3-Way Wiring Confirmation

    So we're building a new home, I'm doing all the wiring myself so I wanted to have our three way switches as easy possible, with neutrals at every box of course and no power incoming to the lights and going to switches or any of those obscure 3-way wiring schemes. We've got 8 3-way circuits (one 4-way) and before my guys started wiring it up, I made sure we did it like this: http://imgur.com/CIMRdbs

    12/2 from Panel to primary switch. 12/3 to "Accessory" switch from Amani Switch. And 12/2 from Accessory switch to Fixtures.

    Now I'm looking at the backs of these switches and the manuals that come with them and it shows standard wiring would be like I have it, except 12/2 to fixtures should come from Main switch and not accessory switch. Walls are still open, so it wouldn't be more than 4-5 hours work to pull new runs from fixtures to main switch, if that would be the easier. But if I didn't, would the homeseer switchs and dimmers with accessory switches work on a scheme like I have? If so, where does the fixture get power from then, because there is no "load" output on the accessory switches.


    Edit: maybe I'm dumb. I would just go from main switch to accessory switch box with the 12/3, and hook up red as my traveler, white to neutral (white from accessory switch to fixture too), and black will be wire nutted to the black on the 12/2 going to the fixtures.


    Edit Edit: http://imgur.com/odhMjcK Excuse the rather crude worksite drawing. Would that way work?

    #2
    3-Way Wiring Confirmation

    You are correct in your first edit (not seeing the pic from the 2nd edit). The hot from the primary switch and the load to the fixture would be nutted together at the accessory switch location, therefore bypassing the secondary switch.
    cheeryfool

    Comment


      #3
      Just some quick thoughts.

      Running 12AWG for lighting may be less than desirable. Most switches and fixtures are rated for 15A and may not have large enough connections to support 12 AWG wire. 12AWG is more expensive and more difficult to work with than 14AWG. For lighting, especially with modern energy efficient options, a 15A circuit with 14AWG wire is more than adequate.
      HS4 Pro, 4.2.19.0 Windows 10 pro, Supermicro LP Xeon

      Comment


        #4
        Originally posted by cheeryfool View Post
        You are correct in your first edit (not seeing the pic from the 2nd edit). The hot from the primary switch and the load to the fixture would be nutted together at the accessory switch location, therefore bypassing the secondary switch.
        Thank you. Yes, the 2nd image is just a drawing of my first edit, nutting hot from main to load, bypassing the accessory switch.

        Comment

        Working...
        X