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    HW-WS100+ install issue - not working

    OK, what am I missing?

    Turned off breaker. Old switch 2 blacks only. Assumed line and load. Made jumper to white/neutral bundle already in box. Verified with tester on blacks one was hot (line) other was not (load). Neutral was not hot.

    Added new switch. Turned breaker back on. Nothing. Hit up paddle. Nothing. Hit down paddle. Nothing. No LED. Checked wires now with tester. Line hot, neutral hot, load nothing.

    Tried another switch. Same result. These are both new out of the box switches.

    Should I immediately see the LED on front when powered? Is there something I have to do to make the switch work manually before adding to system? I haven't used the HS switches but I don't see anything unusual in the documentation.

    #2
    Originally posted by CraigF View Post
    OK, what am I missing?

    Turned off breaker. Old switch 2 blacks only. Assumed line and load. Made jumper to white/neutral bundle already in box. Verified with tester on blacks one was hot (line) other was not (load). Neutral was not hot.

    Added new switch. Turned breaker back on. Nothing. Hit up paddle. Nothing. Hit down paddle. Nothing. No LED. Checked wires now with tester. Line hot, neutral hot, load nothing.

    Tried another switch. Same result. These are both new out of the box switches.

    Should I immediately see the LED on front when powered? Is there something I have to do to make the switch work manually before adding to system? I haven't used the HS switches but I don't see anything unusual in the documentation.
    The white LED on the top of the switch should lite up when you push the top of the switch and go off when you push the bottom of the switch.

    You do measure 120VAC on the bottom two terminals, right?

    Z

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      #3
      I'm thinking loose connection on the neutral. Took the bundle apart and redid the jumper. Working now. Probably loosened when I crammed back into box. This is why I am a geek and not an electrician!


      Sent from my SM-G935T using Tapatalk

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        #4
        Originally posted by CraigF View Post
        I'm thinking loose connection on the neutral. Took the bundle apart and redid the jumper. Working now. Probably loosened when I crammed back into box. This is why I am a geek and not an electrician!


        Sent from my SM-G935T using Tapatalk
        You can be both
        Not unusual, considering the size of the switches nowadays.
        Always best to manually twist the new wire unto the existing bundle first (with pliers) and then add the twistlock. Don't assume the twistlock will bind it enough.

        Z

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          #5
          Also Stuck Installing

          I've not been able to successfully get my dimmer to power on (no LEDs light up).

          This is a single pole setup (No traveler line needed).

          I removed a previous dimmer (that I also installed) then have tied to connect the HomeSeer dimmer in every possible combination of connections.

          The black wires with red tap are hot, the black wire with blue tape is not. I've connected a white neutral line that was in the box (previously unused by the old dimmer). I've tried the blue and red wires in opposite configuration, also with and without the neutral line attached.



          Is there a way to test my neutral line? While I have experience switching out electrical sockets and switches in my house, I'm not very experienced with the inner workings of home electrical systems.

          Thanks for any help you can offer!

          Comment


            #6
            I would put a voltmeter from neutral to line and verify 110-120V.
            Turn the switch on and put a voltmeter from neutral to load and verify 110-120V(may be slightly less due to dimming).
            Last edited by rmasonjr; February 20, 2017, 01:09 PM. Reason: words
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              #7
              Thank you, I'll check it out.

              Comment


                #8
                Originally posted by rmasonjr View Post
                I would put a voltmeter from neutral to line and verify 110-120V.
                Turn the switch on and put a voltmeter from neutral to load and verify 110-120V(may be slightly less due to dimming).
                Finally got a chance to test this. No luck. I get ~114v testing line and load, but nothing between neutral and load. Does this mean my neutral wire is not properly connected? If so, without major electrical work, is it possible I may not be able to use the Homeseer dimmer?

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                  #9
                  It was probably just a typo, but... you shouldn't show any voltage between neutral and load (blue tape to your light) if your device is not switched on... you should see it between line (red tape/hot) and neutral. Do you show any voltage between line and the neutral?

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