Announcement

Collapse
No announcement yet.

3-way help: load in one box, line in the other

Collapse
X
 
  • Filter
  • Time
  • Show
Clear All
new posts

    3-way help: load in one box, line in the other

    Okay! I'm having issues with a 3-way where the load and the line are coming into different boxes with a 3-wire in between. Image 1 below shows the configuration. Image 2 is a sketch of how I tried to wire it. I used the black of the 3-wire to carry the line/hot over to the box with the load. I want the HS Dimmer in the box with the load and the companion switch in the box with the line. Any guidance would be much appreciated. I'm sure its something very simple and I'm just not seeing it. Thanks
    Attached Files

    #2
    Your wiring diagram looks right, it should have worked. I just did the same thing a couple of weeks ago and it did not work first try. I was perplexed. Turned out one of my neutral wires broke off inside one of the wire nuts. I did it just like your hand drawn diagram carrying the hot over the 3-conductor on the black wire. Try rechecking all your connections.

    Comment


      #3
      It appears you don't have any current going to the companion switch. The companion switch (if it is like the one I am screwing around with, now) is nothing more than a radio, but it needs a hot and neutral. The traveler is used only to carry current into the non-line box. You really only need three wires (not counting the ground) for the master box.

      The directions provided by Cooper really suck and (in my experience) are nothing like houses are actually wired... colors or actual wiring....
      HomeSeer Version: HS4 Pro Edition 4.2.19.0 (Windows - Running as a Service)
      Home Assistant 2024.3
      Operating System: Microsoft Windows 11 Pro - Desktop
      Z-Wave Devices via two Z-Net G3s
      Zigbee Devices via RaspBee on RPi 3b+
      WiFi Devices via Internal Router.

      Enabled Plug-Ins
      AK GoogleCalendar 4.0.4.16,AK HomeAssistant 4.0.1.23,AK SmartDevice 4.0.5.1,AK Weather 4.0.5.181,AmbientWeather 3.0.1.9,Big6 3.44.0.0,BLBackup 2.0.64.0,BLGData 3.0.55.0,BLLock 3.0.39.0,BLUPS 2.0.26.0,Device History 4.5.1.1,EasyTrigger 3.0.0.76,Harmony Hub 4.0.14.0,HSBuddy 4.51.303.0,JowiHue 4.1.4.0,LG ThinQ 4.0.26.0,ONVIF Events 1.0.0.5,SDJ-Health 3.1.1.9,TPLinkSmartHome4 2022.12.30.0,UltraCID3 3.0.6681.34300,Z-Wave 4.1.3.0

      Comment


        #4
        I presume he has a HomeSeer switch based on the forum posted. That being the case the accessory switch only has neutral and traveler, no hot.

        Comment


          #5
          3-way help: load in one box, line in the other

          Agreed. The hand drawn diagram looks correct to me. The blacks should be wire nutted together at the accessory switch. The only wire connecting the switches is the red traveler that carries a low voltage signal - oh and the neutral.
          cheeryfool

          Comment


            #6
            Originally posted by jhearty View Post
            I presume he has a HomeSeer switch based on the forum posted. That being the case the accessory switch only has neutral and traveler, no hot.
            Yep, looks like you are right. The newfangled ones are wired differently....
            HomeSeer Version: HS4 Pro Edition 4.2.19.0 (Windows - Running as a Service)
            Home Assistant 2024.3
            Operating System: Microsoft Windows 11 Pro - Desktop
            Z-Wave Devices via two Z-Net G3s
            Zigbee Devices via RaspBee on RPi 3b+
            WiFi Devices via Internal Router.

            Enabled Plug-Ins
            AK GoogleCalendar 4.0.4.16,AK HomeAssistant 4.0.1.23,AK SmartDevice 4.0.5.1,AK Weather 4.0.5.181,AmbientWeather 3.0.1.9,Big6 3.44.0.0,BLBackup 2.0.64.0,BLGData 3.0.55.0,BLLock 3.0.39.0,BLUPS 2.0.26.0,Device History 4.5.1.1,EasyTrigger 3.0.0.76,Harmony Hub 4.0.14.0,HSBuddy 4.51.303.0,JowiHue 4.1.4.0,LG ThinQ 4.0.26.0,ONVIF Events 1.0.0.5,SDJ-Health 3.1.1.9,TPLinkSmartHome4 2022.12.30.0,UltraCID3 3.0.6681.34300,Z-Wave 4.1.3.0

            Comment


              #7
              Originally posted by cheeryfool View Post
              Agreed. The hand drawn diagram looks correct to me. The blacks should be wire nutted together at the accessory switch. The only wire connecting the switches is the red traveler that carries a low voltage signal - oh and the neutral.

              Not to hijack, but out of curiosity.... does the traveler actually send a signal or does it just power a transmitter? Looks like I need to do some relearning, since I'm in the process of using up my last "old style" pair....
              HomeSeer Version: HS4 Pro Edition 4.2.19.0 (Windows - Running as a Service)
              Home Assistant 2024.3
              Operating System: Microsoft Windows 11 Pro - Desktop
              Z-Wave Devices via two Z-Net G3s
              Zigbee Devices via RaspBee on RPi 3b+
              WiFi Devices via Internal Router.

              Enabled Plug-Ins
              AK GoogleCalendar 4.0.4.16,AK HomeAssistant 4.0.1.23,AK SmartDevice 4.0.5.1,AK Weather 4.0.5.181,AmbientWeather 3.0.1.9,Big6 3.44.0.0,BLBackup 2.0.64.0,BLGData 3.0.55.0,BLLock 3.0.39.0,BLUPS 2.0.26.0,Device History 4.5.1.1,EasyTrigger 3.0.0.76,Harmony Hub 4.0.14.0,HSBuddy 4.51.303.0,JowiHue 4.1.4.0,LG ThinQ 4.0.26.0,ONVIF Events 1.0.0.5,SDJ-Health 3.1.1.9,TPLinkSmartHome4 2022.12.30.0,UltraCID3 3.0.6681.34300,Z-Wave 4.1.3.0

              Comment


                #8
                Thanks everyone! The odd think is that it works the other way around - dimmer on the line side and accessory switch on the load side. I'll look at it with fresh eyes during the week. Just wanted to make sure that my logic was correct. Thanks!

                Comment


                  #9
                  Originally posted by ewkearns View Post
                  Not to hijack, but out of curiosity.... does the traveler actually send a signal or does it just power a transmitter? Looks like I need to do some relearning, since I'm in the process of using up my last "old style" pair....
                  Neither. On the HS and Jasco switches, the traveler wire is basically a pair of resistors in the accessory switch. The top paddle presents one resistance between the neutral and traveler and the bottom paddle presents a different resistance. When neither button is pressed it is an open circuit. That is why you can use 4 or more accessory controls with a single dimmer or switch. FWIW the Jasco and HomeSeer accessory controls are interchangeable.
                  HS4 Pro, 4.2.19.0 Windows 10 pro, Supermicro LP Xeon

                  Comment


                    #10
                    Thanks!
                    HomeSeer Version: HS4 Pro Edition 4.2.19.0 (Windows - Running as a Service)
                    Home Assistant 2024.3
                    Operating System: Microsoft Windows 11 Pro - Desktop
                    Z-Wave Devices via two Z-Net G3s
                    Zigbee Devices via RaspBee on RPi 3b+
                    WiFi Devices via Internal Router.

                    Enabled Plug-Ins
                    AK GoogleCalendar 4.0.4.16,AK HomeAssistant 4.0.1.23,AK SmartDevice 4.0.5.1,AK Weather 4.0.5.181,AmbientWeather 3.0.1.9,Big6 3.44.0.0,BLBackup 2.0.64.0,BLGData 3.0.55.0,BLLock 3.0.39.0,BLUPS 2.0.26.0,Device History 4.5.1.1,EasyTrigger 3.0.0.76,Harmony Hub 4.0.14.0,HSBuddy 4.51.303.0,JowiHue 4.1.4.0,LG ThinQ 4.0.26.0,ONVIF Events 1.0.0.5,SDJ-Health 3.1.1.9,TPLinkSmartHome4 2022.12.30.0,UltraCID3 3.0.6681.34300,Z-Wave 4.1.3.0

                    Comment


                      #11
                      man oh man.. i searched the site the other day and didnt see this. so did my own thread...

                      yeah i ran into the same problem.. the easy way to explain how i did it was..

                      use a traveler wire (black) go take power from 1 box to the other...
                      HW - i5 4570T @2.9ghz runs @11w | 8gb ram | 128gb ssd OS - Win10 x64

                      HS - HS3 Pro Edition 3.0.0.435

                      Plugins - BLRF 2.0.94.0 | Concord 4 3.1.13.10 | HSBuddy 3.9.605.5 | HSTouch Server 3.0.0.68 | RFXCOM 30.0.0.36 | X10 3.0.0.36 | Z-Wave 3.0.1.190

                      Hardware - EdgePort/4 DB9 Serial | RFXCOM 433MHz USB Transceiver | Superbus 2000 for Concord 4 | TI103 X-10 Interface | WGL Designs W800 RF | Z-Net Z-Wave Interface

                      Comment

                      Working...
                      X