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Honeywell Z-wave TH8320ZW won't connect to Z-wave - Solved!

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    Honeywell Z-wave TH8320ZW won't connect to Z-wave - Solved!

    I hope this helps others out there-- hopefully you won't waste a couple of hours trying to figure out what is wrong with your device.

    I bought a Honeywell TH8320ZW thermostat to work with my Samsung SmartThings hub. After getting it turned on, the top of the screen would almost instantly say "Communication failed". I would try to add it to the Z-wave network (just like it says in the manual) and it would do one of two things: 1) say "Adding to Network" but it would never do anything for a few minutes, or 2) almost instantly say "Action Failed".

    The problem is this: the Z-wave component of the circuit board is not properly connected to the main circuit board. The two are connected by four thin pins, and the housing is spacious enough that they easily become disconnected. To reconnect them, open the housing by peeling off the front housing (the one around the touchscreen), it should snap off, and this will expose the screen casing. There are two tabs on the sides of it to push back, then the whole thing can come loose. You can remove the main circuitboard now, and then you'll see the Z-wave board just underneath (still in the housing). Try to now push them back together (being very careful to align it properly). You can put the thermostat back on the wall without the front casing on, and try to set it up again and see if it will connect to your Z-wave hub now. This did the trick for me.

    Hope this helps someone!

    #2
    Same Problem with HS3

    My TStat just stopped working with HS3 and I could not remove or exclude. Took apart the unit, reseated the daughter board and magically it now works. Thanks for the info.

    Comment


      #3
      I have spent many hours/days messing around with this brand of thermostats, and imo they are pos. I tried reseating the card, power cycle, etc., all efforts resulted in a temporary fix, the comm lost problem always comes back. You may get away with it if you have just one thermostat in your system, but if you ever add more you will discover what I am talking about. Will not ever touch this thermostat with a 10' pole.

      tried a different brand in the same location, have not had a single issue for many months now.

      good luck.

      Comment


        #4
        +1 on the P.O.S.

        Mine belongs in the dust bin
        Blair

        HomeSeer: HS3 Pro | Blue-Iris 4 on Windows10Pro
        | Devices: 832 | Events: 211 |
        Plug-Ins: Z-Wave | RFXCOM | UltraRachio3 | Sonos
        BLLAN | BLLOCK | NetCAM | Global Cache Pro | Blue-Iris4

        Comment


          #5
          Thank you! I was a little intimidated at first but it took less than two minutes!

          Comment


            #6
            I have two of these. I had to fix the backup battery holders on both of them, but other than that they have been trouble free. I've had them since 2011.

            Comment


              #7
              Originally posted by loganonmission View Post
              I hope this helps others out there-- hopefully you won't waste a couple of hours trying to figure out what is wrong with your device.

              I bought a Honeywell TH8320ZW thermostat to work with my Samsung SmartThings hub. After getting it turned on, the top of the screen would almost instantly say "Communication failed". I would try to add it to the Z-wave network (just like it says in the manual) and it would do one of two things: 1) say "Adding to Network" but it would never do anything for a few minutes, or 2) almost instantly say "Action Failed".

              The problem is this: the Z-wave component of the circuit board is not properly connected to the main circuit board. The two are connected by four thin pins, and the housing is spacious enough that they easily become disconnected. To reconnect them, open the housing by peeling off the front housing (the one around the touchscreen), it should snap off, and this will expose the screen casing. There are two tabs on the sides of it to push back, then the whole thing can come loose. You can remove the main circuitboard now, and then you'll see the Z-wave board just underneath (still in the housing). Try to now push them back together (being very careful to align it properly). You can put the thermostat back on the wall without the front casing on, and try to set it up again and see if it will connect to your Z-wave hub now. This did the trick for me.

              Hope this helps someone!
              I have been struggling with this issue for nearly a year with my vera setup and no one had an answer. I have had HomeSeer for less than 2 weeks and I fixed it thanks to this post! The speed and simplicity is outstanding. Now I am kicking myself on taking so long to switch.

              Comment


                #8
                Many thanks to loganonmission​ for the very helpful post. I have had a TH8320ZW for maybe 8-10 years (running two stages of a boiler for circulating hot water heat). It isn't fancy, but it has worked flawlessly, including with a Vera Z-Wave hub. Suddenly today I got the trouble message "Communication Lost". The hub could not find it, and the menu on the thermostat would not allow me to try to re-pair it. I was sure that there was going to be the need for a replacement thermostat in my future. But I came across this post and it was exactly my problem. I followed the disassembly instructions, put some contact cleaner on the four tiny connections, and reassembled it. It is working fine once again. In my case, the plastic latch (on the side with the Z-Wave modem) to hold the main circuit board in place had pulled away from the board (just because of the ageing of the plastic I would guess). So the main board was not being held against the Z-Wave modem board. I used a small piece of tape to hold the latch over the circuit board to hopefully keep the connections from loosening again. Thanks again for the very useful tip!

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