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Old October 7th, 2017, 12:50 PM
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Monk Monk is online now
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Question How are the WD100+ Holding Up?

I bought some LED bulbs at Costco today - I guess I forgot my existing switches don't do well with LED. They do not have a neutral and require current to pass through the bulb in order to operate - at all. Leaving me with LED's that won't shut off completely. The best I can surmise, these switches require a neutral and receive their operating power through Hot/Neutral - independent of whatever light bulb happens to be installed. That is what I need.

So it is going to be a long expensive (thousands) road to re-do my switches and I don't really want to do this again in another 5 years. I am wondering if the WD100+ switches are right for me.
It looks like these have been sold for > than a year - so I am interested in hearing from folks who use these to their full potential; with the double and triple tapping and such, are the mechanics holding up?
Secondly, any snafu's regarding the HS control of them? The big thing I like about my current Leviton's is they have been extremely stable and always seem to "Just Work".

All comments welcome!
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  #2  
Old October 7th, 2017, 01:23 PM
Kerat Kerat is offline
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How are the WD100+ Holding Up?

So, here, I have the wd100+ and ws100+. I use a wd100+ and ws100+ in my living room , 3 wd100+ in my kitchen, 1 wd100+ in my stairwell with a companion switch, 2 wd100+ in my basement.

In all locations except my stairwell single tap operates that light based on house mode (morning, day, evening, sleep), double tap operates the entire group of lights to a specific dim level based on house mode (morning, day, evening, sleep), triple tap operates all the lights in that room to max dim level.

In my stairwell I have a door sensor at the top and a motion sensor placed at the bottom. The light will automatically turn on when the door is opened or the motion sensor is tripped. The light will then stay on for 2.5 minutes based on a timer. Closing and re-opening the door or tripping the motion sensor again will reset the timer. We don't have to touch the switch often at all.

The scene capable features seems to be utilized in locations where I haven't added the necessary sensors or where home control is needed.

Everything has been working really well here. In my basement almost all the lighting is recessed and I use the indoor Costco recessed lighting bulbs.

I am actually in the process of adding control to my master bathroom and secondary bedrooms. My next major step will be to add separate wiring for the secondary bedroom ceiling fans to separate lighting from fan control.

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Last edited by Kerat; October 7th, 2017 at 05:46 PM.
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Old October 7th, 2017, 02:05 PM
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Rvtravlr Rvtravlr is online now
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We have over 70 of the HS dimmers and switches with a few companions thrown in as well.

They’ve been installed and working for almost a year and a half. I’ve had two go bad and one is going bad - it loses communication with HS3 and to bring it back to life, I cycle the air gap switch to reset the dimmer.

We do use the single, double and triple tap features of the switches and dimmers but mostly use motion detectors, luminance sensors and voice to control the switches and dimmers.

The mechanics seem to be holding up very well but since we prefer the hands off approach to home automation, the paddles are not being used every day.

We like the looks, the LEDs and the overall feel of them. They feel well made.

We use Philips warm glow LEDs with these switches and dimmers. When dimming, we get all the way down to a few percent before they turn off. We are also old school in that we like the look of the light from incandescent bulbs; these LEDs have a warm, yellow look to the light. Probably around 2700k.

Overall, I recommend them.
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Old October 7th, 2017, 02:09 PM
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rprade rprade is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Monk View Post
I bought some LED bulbs at Costco today - I guess I forgot my existing switches don't do well with LED. They do not have a neutral and require current to pass through the bulb in order to operate - at all. Leaving me with LED's that won't shut off completely. The best I can surmise, these switches require a neutral and receive their operating power through Hot/Neutral - independent of whatever light bulb happens to be installed. That is what I need.

So it is going to be a long expensive (thousands) road to re-do my switches and I don't really want to do this again in another 5 years. I am wondering if the WD100+ switches are right for me.
It looks like these have been sold for > than a year - so I am interested in hearing from folks who use these to their full potential; with the double and triple tapping and such, are the mechanics holding up?
Secondly, any snafu's regarding the HS control of them? The big thing I like about my current Leviton's is they have been extremely stable and always seem to "Just Work".

All comments welcome!
I have had Jasco, Cooper, Linear and HomeSeer switches and dimmers. I got rid of the Linear quickly, the Jasco devices were very reliable and I kept a few. Since they are not instant status, the only ones I kept were close to the controllers and were utility switches. I have had a fair amount of trouble with Cooper devices, they have almost all been replaced with HomeSeer switches.

I started phasing in HomeSeer switches and dimmers mid-summer last year. They have been very reliable and the dimmers work well with LED and incandescent lights. We don't have any CCFL lights. The central scene device opens up a whole new world of control possibilities. Like Kerat, we use different scene controls for different functions and they are always reliably triggered. We have standardized the functions as much as possible, so the same scene in different rooms has similar results.

They are essentially the same mechanics as Jasco, Dragon Tech, Zooz and others so I don't expect any mechanical issues.
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  #5  
Old October 7th, 2017, 02:42 PM
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reidfo reidfo is offline
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I can't speak to how well they hold up, as I've just installed my first set of HS switches and dimmers in my new (to me) house. I'm very impressed so far with the build quality, ease of installation, and of course the double and triple tap features. I've only started experimenting with them and exploring possibilities for events based on the central scene. I'm sure there are other threads talking about that, so a link would be nice.
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  #6  
Old October 11th, 2017, 03:35 PM
scorp508 scorp508 is offline
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I can't speak to other brands as the HS brand switches are the first ones I installed. After a few months with them so far so good. No failures to report and "they just work" is a great description of them.

We use double/triple tap for different things. Usually single tap controls only the local load while double/triple will do things like set all lights in a room to a certain dimmer value, or turn all lights in a room (or floor) off. Our exterior entrance areas have triple tap set to turn on all exterior lights just in case the wife ever gets spooked and wants to flood the yard with light. Or she could ask Alexa to do it for her.

In our family room we have Philips Hue 3rd gen color bulbs in the ceiling fan. Those bulbs always turn on to 100% brightness when power is restored, so double-tap up on that paddle first turns on the lights, waits 1 second, then sends a command to the lights through the Hue hub to dim them to 50%.

The switches themselves feel solid and well made. My only gripe, if I had to find one, is I'm not a fan of any back-stab style electrical device. I would much rather these switches had exposed screws on the sides so I could loop the copper and tighten the screw down on them rather than the current setup that tightens a small plate against the conductor.
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Old October 11th, 2017, 05:42 PM
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Thanks All - I went ahead and bought a 5-Pack to give em a good try-out. Probably do 5 at a time till they are done. I'm sure I'll have good experiences as most of you have.
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